Morris Minor Owners Club

Why did you buy yet another flasher unit - when you had been told the old one is fine? Many new ones seem to be made in tin huts in far away places... You don't tell us if the flashers are now working? It's normal to start a new thread for a new subject - ie the brakes. As others have pointed out - ...

Double post...

Should have ~ 13.6/13.8 volts on the battery - at decent revs and with the headlights and heater ON.

See the simple alternator wiring diagram at the head of this section.... Naturally the large connection is for power.......

See the very simple wiring diagram for alternator at the head of this section. There have been quite a few 'challenges' shall I say with the CW conversion....... It really is very simple - just make sure the car is negative earth. Swap the coil connections and clean the points in the dizzy and the f...

Well done!

The Manual tells you SAE 30 oil.

DO NOT fit top hat seals on the exhaust valves....only the inlets. The valves and chambers look very oily to me - I suggest that despite the reasonable compressions (and yes it is a 40 thou rebore) that there must be considerable amounts of oil getting in to the chambers. I can't see 'gunk' - blue o...

If you mean the piston assembly carrying the needle - then remove it and carefully clean with nothing more than a little brasso until the piston slides up and down in the bell very easily. Then refit - and add a couple of teaspoons of engine oil in the top.

All earth connections are black cables -doesn't matter where they go = anywhere on a clean / paint free portion of the body is fine.

Just need cleaning up = but that amount of gunk would take many many miles of rich/oily running to build up. When the head came to you - was everything spotless? No sign of any gasket problem there.

Careful use of a blunt chisel has always worked well for me - and many others. Almost every Minor axle will show signs of this from the past.... The LH nut is Left Hand thread. To get the drum on you will need to slacken back the adjuster - but most likely the cylinder is seized party open. Make sur...

The WD40 may have done th trick....to clear out any dirt. And you have said you started it a dozen times - so why will it not start now ??

Very unlikely that a 'higher' compression reading would indicate a leaking head gasket. Just torque it down to 44 ftlbf and reset the valve gaps using 15 thou on the exhausts. And take it out for a good run.

Very bad advice to 'apply copperslip' - (or anything else for that matter) - it must be clean and dry. Any oil/grease etc just attracts dirt and makes a sticky grinding paste........ A good clean with say 'carb and choke spray' - will clear the bendix - but then make sure it is wiped dry and running...

Oh dear....

ONLY ever use a light wipe of clean grease on a head gasket - unless you have an RR I suppose..... :roll: Clean up the valves - be sure to put them back in the same holes and lap them in again. Who did the head overhaul ? 'Unleaded' is a waste of money by the way... Hopefully they fitted the latest ...

Head gaskets these days are NOT marked top/front - it really doesn't matter which way up the gasket goes = but it cannot be fitted wrong way round.

They ALL are - that tells you nothing............

With the SAE40 oil you should struggle to move the arm by hand when the damper is in the vice -but it will move and should be a steady firm resistance with no 'easy' bits at the end of the stroke.. You did use SAE 40 oil - and not 10W40 - which is hopeless. is the valve assembly present in each damp...