Morris Minor Owners Club

If it has been run for a while with the peg missing, I would check the shaft to see if its worn. They are cheap to buy and easy to fit.

The bars are fixed to the floor by the same two bolts that would normally fix the seats, if you are that worried you could make the bar longer and use the three floor mounting bolts. The flat bar can be any thickness that you want, probably 5mm will be more that sufficient.

No new holes have been drilled in the floor of the car. It's a flat bar, the front hole is bolted to the original seat mounting hole, the second hole bolt secures the front of the seat mounting hoop and bolts to the rear original mounting hole. the rear of the mounting hoop is secured to a stud weld...

Is the carb like the one in this thread viewtopic.php?t=23734.

What is the engine and what sort of carb? Can you add a couple of pictures?

Mines a 69 and has a drain plug, mind you, it may not be the original tank.

Did the Montego have the same setup?

The interesting carb setup is off a 1275 maestro.

I found that disks and servo became more relevant when I fitted wider wheels.

Have a look at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-WI ... Swi2tbnTnZ Also, if you search his shop he has a couple of other new old stock coils. The one shown has a ballast resistor.

Mine had the problem exactly as Phil has described, it was the rack. I removed the adjustable ball but found that it was impossible to undo the female ball housing from the male. I was going to purchase a new rack until I read this http://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0141.html I knocked up a similar tool ...

If you search the forum you will find that the advice for unleaded is to set the rocker clearance to 0.015" which is obviously 0.003" wider than the0.012" that is stated in the manual. You are also advised to check the rocker clearance every 3,000 miles. I know that many do this, but ...

You also need to consider how much energy is required to drift the old bearings out and the new ones in. I had all sorts of problems and then realised that the hub was so worn I was pushing the bearing in too easily, I ended up with a new hub.

I'm not sure Mr Man, but I would suspect that something is moving due to play.

I suppose that you have checked the tie bar bushes? Could it be the upper swivel bushes or the lower arm bushes?

Next time you leave it for a couple of days, jack the front wheel and see if the brakes are stuck on.

Don't worry, you have the gauge, just look for changes. If you see the pressure suddenly drop, you know that you have a problem. Mine went from 50lbs to 20lbs all of a sudden. I stopped immediately and got a tow home. The problem turned out to be the centre main white metal coating flaking off. No d...

I would use the cheapest 20/50 mineral oil available and change it and filter after 100 miles, then 200 etc until the oil looks clean. But keep an eye on the top end. You may want to consider a spin on filter conversion in the future.

Just ticking over you should have oil drops being thrown all over the engine bay, do what Phil has said, filters and oil are cheap. I think that I changed mine about 5 times before I was happy with it.

I used grease and it has not leaked, obviously you will fit the pully before fully tightening the cover bolts to align the seal correctly.