Morris Minor Owners Club

Mine was similar but not quite so bad. I got rid of all oil/grease on the floor with gunk de-greaser and then, when dry again, wire brushed/sandpapered it all to get rid of loose rust. Then I painted with black hammerite before painting over that with the proper colour of the car. This was about thr...

Yes, I have an aluminium canister and a washer on my care. Last time I changed the filter I noticed the O-ring was pretty much destroyed. As I needed to be back on the road I hadn't time to order a new one so I made one out of a tap washer. I had to enlarge the hole to enable the bolt to slip throug...

At this point I don't think any further tightening is going to help. I would be taking the oil pipe out of the head again to check nothing has become cross threaded anywhere. It may also be that tightening the filter bolt has caused the top of the canister to pierce the rubber ring seal - which coul...

Its very important to know where we can get good parts and avoid the poor repro's. Very frustrating to fit a replacement part and find out it doesn't do the job - which could lead you to hours faffing about investigating other potential causes if you assume the replacement is good. The good Doctor i...

Are you sure you have assembled it correctly? You mention "the seal not properly making good contact at the bolt". But the seal is not in contact with the bolt head. The rubber seal sits inside the dished washer and the bolt passes through this washer and the seal from below before enterin...

Thanks for all your replies. I've messaged the distributor doctor to ask about a threaded version. If this is much more than the powerspark vacuum advance from ebay am I right in thinking I could cut the metal pipe, say 6" up from where it joins to the vacuum advance therefore removing the thr...

There are no leaks after you nipped up the timing cover and water pump bolts, hose clips etc. and the cover seal is only a year old? It is sometimes the case that bolts loosen a bit after being initially tightened up. Personally, if it is all good now I would leave it and see how it goes for a bit. ...

Agreed. This proposal seems like treating the symptoms, rather than the cause of the issue.

I have heard of people washing out the felt filter in petrol after use, but I wouldn't recommend it. Either a paper or felt filter will do the job.

I don't think a little kink in the dizzy vac tube would cause the sudden and dramatic running problems you experienced.
Now that the car "seems to be running as it was" I would see how it goes for a bit.........a few local tests runs.

See here about rotor arms: https://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html I (and others) have had black ones fail suddenly in the past and one that caused on/off running problems before I cottoned on to the fact that the rotor was breaking up intermittently. It wasn't obvious looking at it though...

What colour is your distributor rotor? I did wonder about the rotor arm as the symptoms mirror those I had years ago caused by a rotor arm breaking up. Most problems of this kind are ignition related but it doesn't quite explain why, when trying to re-start the car, 'the petrol pump was having to “...

Well, I'd never have guessed that in a million years! All is revealed then

The whole country has PM issues!

Goodness knows what they thought - it does seem a crazy idea!

Indeed, and it does seem to me a bit of a stretch to describe light hearted comment as 'moaning'!

Welcome back. Time to get it on the road now!

Let's hope so Les, let's hope so!

"the only thing we’ve both noticed is if she hasn’t warmed up enough she doesn’t like to stay running on the fast idol when you come to a stop and tends to stall so we find it’s better just to keep her on a bit choke till she fully warms up" Which is what I keep trying to tell you - that'...

Well, someone may have done this successfully but, until they pop up on here and tell us, I would advise against it.