Morris Minor Owners Club

It also has these shrouds which I assume are to help with oil control at the valve stem. Block also came back looking good, he skimmed just enough off to give a perfect finish where the gasket goes, bores look perfect, but he did say 20 thou was only just enough to remove the old corrsion pitting, n...

Some pics of the engine parts. Head skimmed by 1.5mm, unleaded valve seats fitted. rps20210423_145056.jpg He's replaced the exhaust valve guides but I have noticed the original inlets protrude into the port quite a bit, they will need trimming back. rps20210423_145149.jpg My next thought is valve st...

For fasteners you will need whitworth and AF for a standard minor, any modern engine will bring in metric as well. Suzuki Jimny engines and gearboxes seem to go in nicely, one advantage with a van/pick up is you can cut the bulkhead without infringing the vosa rules if you want to fit a larger engin...

Personally I would start by tacking the crossmember in place taking referance measurements from the rear spring hangers, then tack one chassis leg in check it is square to the crossmember then do the other using the spacers you have once they are all held in with a handfull of tacks, double check th...

Have you adjusted the rear brakes? if the adjusters are backed off you get very similar symptoms to air in the system.

Thanks for the tip, managed to get them for £11, Apparently Terry's aero valve springs were the ones to go for back in the day.

Terry's is an interesting company, they are still going and mainly focus on anglepoise lamps now (they were the original makers).

measured all the valve springs, most were around 42mm a couple below 40, from what I can gather they are 44.5 mm when new so I would assume 42mm is Ok for them to settle to after use. One question I am not sure about is whether we should fit dual valve springs, the cam we have is a fast road cam so ...

I fitted them to my Elan and they seemed to firm the pedal up under heavy braking, didn't bother on the minor though and it seems fine.

The pins were not tight but I have always found on the Ford engines I usually work on it helps to warm the piston a bit (they were still cool enough to handle) so they just drop out especially when taking old ones out as here which often have a bit of carbon build up.

It's a 1098, According to the engine number it is circa 1969, the gudgen pins are retained by circlips and the little ends have bronze bushes, the second engine is another 1098 from 1968, identical con rods pistons etc but the 1968 had a full depth head on the bolts and the 69 one a half depth head....

prior to building the engine up I am sorting through the parts of 2 engines to decide which parts to use in the new engine and the best of the rest to build into the spare engine which being a standard bore block would make a good basis for a rebuild in the future if need be. Today warmed the old pi...

Got the machined engine parts back today, he did say he had to skim a bit more than is ideal off the block to get it flat(it still has a few faint marks) but still well within the thickness of the gasket, as we have also had the head skimmed by 1.5mm we may need to take a bit more out of the combust...

There are waxes which creep much better than waxoyl nowadays, Dinatrol or Bilt Hamber seem to be the most widely used, in the past I have thinned waxoyl with approx 30% clean 20/50 engine oil, it creeps and penetrates much better but still sets so it doesn't drip.

I think it is doubtfull a welded repair would last and done properly it won't be much cheaper than doing another head. That is if it is the head, cracked heads usually lead to an obvious misfire or coolant leaks which give white steam not blue smoke, it sounds more like oil is being pulled into the ...

I deliberately left the jacking points off of ours, decided they were just a rust trap and would never really trust jacking it on these anyway, we carry a scissor jack which we use under the axle or front chassis leg. Unfortunately it looks like as others have said someone has just plated over all t...

Ignoring the possibility you have the valve timing one tooth out the new chain won't be stretched so it will change the ignition timing so yes before doing anything drastic check the ignition timing Ideally I would check it with a timing light first to get it to nominal then advance it a turn at a t...

Have you checked what mcyorks suggests? On one of my cars (TR7V8) the heater is hopeless if the hoses are the one way round and roasting if the other, the feed from the cylinder head goes to the bottom of the heater matrix and the return to the bottom hose the top, thermodynamics say you should feed...

As it's an iron head I would go at it with scrapers and wire brushes in a drill, you can even use abrasive discs or drums in a dremmel etc. If you go carefull. (Wear a dust mask though) For the valves I spin them up in a drill and use an fairly fine old file to clean them (not the seats !). In the p...

I peeled the vinyl covering off then used the remains of the board as a pattern to cut new boards out of 4mm ply, sealed it with varnish on both sides then stuck the vinyl back on with trim adhesive.

As I have mentioned in the mechanical section the engine had a number of problems, it was getting difficult to start, the oil pressure was dropping and the timing chain very noisy, so we pulled it out and found a load of problems, -low oil because the plastic dipstick tube was broken and the oil was...