Morris Minor Owners Club

rogerowen wrote:I've got a Duplex chain on my 948 - best way to get rid of that 'A' series front end rattle.

same as that. no more rattles/noise

think of it like this.......... did they use 10W40 in 1963? did they know what synthetic was back then?

just stick to mineral oils, it was good enough back then, it's good enough for today. simples.

ebay is a gamble. there are people out there that waste £1,000's on the horses/dogs/football etc. take it for what it is, a gamble. if your not prepared to go and view it before laying your £1 notes on the auntie mable, then don't complain. i have purchased several cars from ebay without viewing the...

mine did this. i could turn the bearing around in the hub with 2 fingers. the cure was another hub and bearing. how i think mine ended up like that was that it was pulled out from under a tree after 30 years and had seized. rotation of the wheel must of had the bearing turning in the hub as the whee...

irmscher wrote:The Dvla passing the no mot rule is madness and can only lead to problems . The only good bit is it states you need mot to take your private reg off a car so number plate dealers may come unstuck

cool idea.

make sure the leads aren't touching some bare metal as well.

this happened to me coming down the M6 in the outside lane.

i pulled over and stopped. the car would start and tick over, but when i pulled away, the same happened.

i changed the fuel filter and it cured it.

failing that, it is electrical. you can rule out mechanical.

use a socket when hammering them in.

went and re-torqued it this morning after i had let it get up to temp. it did need re doing, you were right. took the car rof a run and it seems fine. healthy oil pressure as well. temp gauge didn't move from just below the normal position (as before). so i guess i am happy. just the exhaust blow to...

Don't forget to re-torque now, after that first heat cycle....and then set the gaps. And you originally reported running on 3 - it's rather more than that when the gasket blows!! i didn't do that last time. i guess i should. i have torqued it to 45lb. i didn't run it for too long as i have the rad ...

well it wasn't a valve, coil or rocker gaps. it was the head gasket. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b286/ampwhu/IMG00194-20120623-13421.jpg on 1 and 2 i had 150psi and on 3 and 4 i had about 45psi. so i removed the head and was faced with the obvious. i have just spent the afternoon changing the ...

thanks. when i said further up that i recorded 160psi, that was last year. i've yet to do it since i've had an issue.

i'm off to comp test all 4. i'll report back later........

but back to the original question, would a compression test show if a valve has burnt out?

i don't want to remove the head to find it is ok.

Not necessarily........it may be the coil!! :o most likely is rotor arm/dizzy cap/HT leads - but possibly the 'low tension' lead inside the dizzy -have you checked it/replaced it in living memory?? it wont be the coil. it has never been a coil in over 25 years of ownership. low tension lead was rep...

so it must be these silly condensors on sale these days.....

but will it show if a valve is burnt out? i remember the last time i did a comp test...... each cylinder was about 160psi

i think i know the answer, but i thought i'd ask anyway.. if i do a compression test on each cylinder (remove plug and insert tester as well as disconnect the coil etc), would that show up if i have burnt a valve out? i'll tell you why, the car sounds as though it's running on 3 cylinders. if it isn...

lift it up as you select reverse gear??

i own one. it's not been on the road since 87 (i think). it's in my barn in newport (wales). it does run and drive and it's 95% solid and complete.

yes. i'd use the gearbox from the 1275 if you have it, it would be a ribbed box. as said, you may encounter difficulty in the clutch mechanics