Help for old Newbie please

[davecopp]

Hi
Having had a lifelong ambition to restore an old car, at the age of 62 I'm now hoping to fulfil my ambition. The question is do I have the knowledge and, more importantly, the commitment? Unconvinced of this, my plan is to restore an engine and gearbox first, and then, having hopefully proved myself, buy an old Morris Minor to restore (and then install the already restored engine and gearbox). The reason it has to be a Morris Minor is because it was the second car I ever owned (after a Harry Potter Ford Anglia) and fell in love with. At that time I did do quite a lot of mechanical work on it, albeit fairly basic, so it is familiar to me. I would be very grateful for advice on the following:
1. Could someone give me the dimensions (height and length) of a 1098 engine and gearbox combined. (to see if it will fit in my hatchback without dismantling).
2. Tools - makes of engine stand, torque wrench, vernier calipers, etc. you would recommend or I should stay away from.
Many thanks
Dave

[Mark Wilson]

Many of us might object to 62 being considered old. Although at my rate of progress you might be old when you finish...

You can get an engine and gearbox in the back of most hatchbacks in two pieces, and separating them would be a good introduction to your spanners and sockets. Much kinder on your back if you can borrow a van, estate car or trailer with a level loading platform.

I've been pleased with the service and quality of my engine stand from SGS Engineering. I'm also pleased with my trolley jack from the same company. I'd advise you to look for one with the highest lift you can, useful if you can lift high enough to get the wheels up on to ramps.

Digital vernier callipers cost less than a tenner at Aldi or on eBay and are perfectly serviceable. Get the best click type torque wrench you can afford, avoid cheapies like the plague. You could also make use of a dial indicator for measuring end float - look out on eBay for an old one.

You'll need imperial spanners and sockets of course, both AF sizes and Whitworth.

Having said all that, you're possibly looking at the project the wrong way round. The bodywork is far more difficult to tackle than the mechanicals. You aren't going to find a good shell waiting for a new engine and box!

It is all great fun, though - enjoy!

Mark

[davecopp]

Thank you Mark. I really appreciate you taking the time to give advice.

The reason I'm starting with the engine is that I'm more comfortable with mechanics but have no experience at all at bodywork or welding.

With regard to age, if I'm honest, my view has always been, irrespective of my age at the time, old people are those that are 20 years older than me!

Thanks again

[philthehill]

As above - A Minor engine and gearbox should fit easily in your hatchback if the gearbox and engine are separated.
If you are doing the engine and gearbox first you will only need A/F spanners/sockets.
'e' bay is the place to get good quality spanners/sockets - Britool being one of the best.
I am always picking up old new stock (NOS) Britool spanners off 'e' bay.
Good S/H ones can also be found if required.
As above the body work is the problem with the Minor because you must bear in mind that most Minors are 50 years plus old.
The Minor shares lots of engine parts with the Mini so parts are available from Mini parts suppliers as well as Minor parts suppliers.
'e' bay again is a good source of parts both new and S/H.
The Minor was the first car I purchased (many years ago) and is still with me and is the car in the signature photo.
If you do go ahead you will find plenty of good sensible advice on this forum.
Age is no barrier to restoring the Minor - I am getting close to 69 years young and as my wife keeps telling me I am just a recycled teenager

Phil

[davecopp]

Thanks Phil.

I'll start looking on ebay. My birthday is in March so I can 'help' my kids decide what to buy me.

I like the idea of being a recycled teenager as long as I don't have to go on twitter.

Dave

[smithskids]

Welcome davecopp, you may get a bit more help if we knew what area you are in

[davecopp]

Hi Smithskids

Thanks fo the welcome.

I'm born and bred and living in Swansea.

[Budgie]

Hi Dave and welcome...Swansea, I'm just down the road from you in The Peoples Republic of Llanelli.

[davecopp]

Thank you Budgie.

I'm actually just over the border in Pontarddulais.

[Budgie]

Ah Pontardulais, I know it well .I was a member of the Pontardulais Vintage and Classic Car Club which holds it's meetings once a month on the first Wednesday at the Workingman's club but the bus terminal . There was a guy there that had an original moggy panda car.

[les]

Hi Dave, you ask about having the knowledge and commitment, well you're never too old to learn, as to commitment, only you know that one. There's been plenty of encouragement for you in the subsequent posts and fair enough why not but how do you feel about laying under an old car scrapping off muck and rust, cutting out old metal and all that? Plenty of us do it but I'd think twice about it now, even though I do still think about it especially after seeing or reading about some project or other ! I make these comments not to discourage, more to give you a realistic outlook on the practical side of things. Regarding tools, it's always best to buy good quality but again depending on how much use they get. I'm possibly going to get flamed for making these comments but there you go!

[davecopp]

Hi Les

All comments are welcome. It's because of what you said that I highlighted the issue of commitment in my opening post. I realise it's a massive commitment and that's why I need to prove myself on an engine first before committing to having a rusty old wreck (with all due respect to Morris Minors everywhere) hanging around the place. It's easy to be positive before getting your hands dirty. If I am successful with the engine rebuild it will give me the confidence and motivation to move on (hopefully).

Dave

[les]

Good luck Dave, whatever you decide!

[davecopp]

I've just discovered the workshop manual specifies torque settings in lb. ft or kg. m. but the Halfords website specifies NM. Can anyone advise which torque wrench is appropriate 3/8" drive with 8NM to 60NM or 1/2" drive with 40NM to 200NM. I tried using an online calculator and that converted the lowest setting of 25lbs to 33NM and the highest of 65lbs to 88NM which would suggest neither torque wrench can facilitate the whole range. Also would anyone recommend the Halfords Professional or any other make?
Thanks

[Mark Wilson]

Nice little collection of tools going on eBay if you've a bit of cash to spare.........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snap-on-40-To ... Sw4DJYmPC2

[Mark Wilson]

I went for a 1/2" drive as all my sockets are 1/2". The range I've encountered in an engine and gearbox rebuild are, from memory, 25lb ft for the rocker studs to 65 lb ft for the main bearing caps. I'd look for one with old money settings as well as metric to avoid translation errors. I bought a second hand Norbar one off eBay with a recent calibration certificate (and did a home made calibration check, method available on the internet). Watch out for the ex miitary Norbar wrenches currently on eBay at £30 odd quid - top quality, but they need a ratchet head which would cost you around £70! Sealey and Laser are generally ok for decent home use equipment, but I have no experience of their torque wrenches.

[philthehill]

The Minor wskp manual specifies the torque settings for the engine in both ft lb and kg. m.
Most torque wrenches have both lb ft and NM
I have three torque wrenches for various tasks and they are:
Britool 1/2" drive model EVT1200 which is marked in Newton Metres, Kilogram Metres, lb ft & Hundreds of lbs - inch.
Draper 1/2" drive Stock No: 30357, Pt No: 3001A with a range of which is calibrated in Newton Metres & a max of 154 ft lbs.
Sealy 3/8" drive model No: STW1011 with a range of 7 - 12 Newton Metres & 5 - 83 lb ft.
All three are well used and give good results but the Britool torque wrench is the best.
What ever you purchase make sure that the spring adjuster is backed right off when not in use as if left screwed hard on can effect the reading of the torque wrench due to long term spring compression.
An important consideration - New torque wrenches will come with a current and valid calibration certification.
S/H may not have a certificate - but may be worth a punt.
Phil

[davecopp]

Thanks gents.
Plenty of food for thought.

[irmscher]

Dave why not buy a car needing minor attention as you will be able to rebuild the engine without buying another one

[davecopp]

Hi Irmscher

Ideally I would, but unfortunately funds won't permit at this time.

Dave