Choke lever swap

[Andymoor94]

Hello,

I've got a bit of a stiff choke cable... Well, to say the truth, it takes two hands to pull it.

My previous Moggy 1000 had the choke with steps on and was a dream to use, but my current series II is just smooth. I much preferred the later version.

Since I'm going to be at least changing the cable to free things up, how simple would a swap to the later style be?

[Mark Wilson]

ESM do a cheap version, without steps, and a more expensive "original" version with them. I've had both and they seem to be interchangeable and I prefer the more expensive version. I don't know if the Series II is any different. Does the carb have a decent return spring?

[win]

My original choke cable is notched, just twist it to lock it.
I suggest removing it to check if it is just jammed.
I repaired my inner cable, just unsoldered old one, and replaced with a copper earth cable.
Regards Win

[Andymoor94]

ESM do a cheap version, without steps, and a more expensive "original" version with them. I've had both and they seem to be interchangeable and I prefer the more expensive version. I don't know if the Series II is any different. Does the carb have a decent return spring?

Will have to check, but the carb isn't original... I don't know what it is

[jagnut66]

Hi Andy,
ESM also do this (link below), which I believe is the correct one and not that expensive.
Best wishes,
Mike.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/fuel- ... -c-p830822

[Andymoor94]

Hi Andy,
ESM also do this (link below), which I believe is the correct one and not that expensive.
Best wishes,
Mike.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/fuel- ... -c-p830822

I hadn't even started looking yet and there it is. Thanks very much Mike, on its way to me!

[jagnut66]

Planning ahead, I bought loads of parts way before actually being ready to fit them, because I knew I'd be wanting them. It helps to keep the momentum going once you start.
Even with this I find I have missed things or need extras, however it allows me to move onto something else, while I wait for said part to turn up.
Plus it allows you to spread the costs.
However one thing I find is that if the momentum stalls getting it going again can be tricky, I'm not just speaking for myself here but including any others that may also be involved in the renovation process.
Best wishes,
Mike.

NB: They are (or were) mostly stored in my spare bedroom, so another incentive to get them fitted...........

[Mark Wilson]

Hi Andy,
ESM also do this (link below), which I believe is the correct one and not that expensive.
Best wishes,
Mike.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/fuel- ... -c-p830822

Yes, that''s the one I referred to. I said it was the more expensive option, not that it was particularly expensive!

A word of warning. Don't in any circumstances separate the inner and outer cables. I did, in an attempt to assist feeding it through the bulkhead grommet. The notch mechanism has a vital spring thingy, which I can't describe as I never found it after it fell apart. I made someting which sort of works, but I'll be replacing soon. These cables do become expensive if you have to buy two!

[jagnut66]

Ironically my own choke cable snapped when re-attaching it to the linkage......
Wear and age...................
So then I had to order one form ESM myself, it arrive today and was soon fitted.
Best wishes,
Mike.

A word of warning. Don't in any circumstances separate the inner and outer cables. I did, in an attempt to assist feeding it through the bulkhead grommet.

Why? I found this easy?
The only bit that took a little time was undoing the nuts behind the dash by hand, when I had to replace it. A little copper grease would have made things Much easier.

[RobThomas]

If the end of the cable is at all frayed it starts to get like putting a coat onto a reluctant 4- year-old kid. Fingers splay out!

[jagnut66]

Sorry, I don't think I made it very clear which part of what he did I didn't understand.
If I read him correctly he took the inner choke cable out from its metal sheathing, to get it through the bulkhead grommet, intending to feed it back in afterwards.
That was the bit I didn't understand, as I have never had any trouble feeding one through the bulkhead on any of my Minors.
This wasn't a criticism by the way, I just don't understand how dismantling the choke cable would help?
Best wishes,
Mike.

[Mark Wilson]

It was some time ago, but I think I had a problem passing through the bulkhead grommet from behind the glovebox, because I have fairly heavy rubber soundproofing in there. I think I tried to use the more rigid cable outer to push through, but can't remember if I completely removed the inner cable, or just pulled the chromed notched section back too far. Whatever I did wasn't my finest moment, as it soon became apparent that I had messed up the detente mechanism. Don't do it!

[jagnut66]

The notch mechanism has a vital spring thingy, which I can't describe as I never found it after it fell apart.

Hi,
I think number 1, on the picture below, is the part you lost. It sits under the collar (1a), in a cutaway slot (1b), with the flat side facing inwards. As you found, you need to slide the collar off and remove this, in order to pull the cable out of its metal sheathing.

This is my old cable, which snapped off at the choke linkage on my carb, so is now too short. There is an indent (2), which I'm assuming is where the cable is fixed into the body of the mechanism.
As I have nothing to loose anyway I'm going to drill this out and see if the cable comes free. My question is, if I can get the old (and broke) cable out, does anyone know where I might obtain a replacement length of cable, which is suitable (and strong enough) to replace it with?
If I can repair it, I will reassemble and keep the original choke cable as a spare.
As always many thanks for any help.
Best wishes,
Mike.

Morris Minor early Series 2 choke cable assembly.jpg (1.08 MiB) Viewed 1597 times

[StillGotMy1stCar]

As I have nothing to loose anyway I'm going to drill this out and see if the cable comes free. My question is, if I can get the old (and broke) cable out, does anyone know where I might obtain a replacement length of cable, which is suitable (and strong enough) to replace it with?
If I can repair it, I will reassemble and keep the original choke cable as a spare.
As always many thanks for any help.
Best wishes,
Mike.[/i][/b]
Morris Minor early Series 2 choke cable assembly.jpg

Bicycle brake cable might do the job.
Regards John

[jagnut66]

Bicycle brake cable might do the job.
Regards John

Good idea John.
As a postscript to my comment about drilling the old cable out, after typing that and switching off I had a lightbulb moment.
No need for a drill, as it's soldered in place, I simply heated it up and the old cable pulled straight out, simples!
Now to source some bike cable.
Halfords perchance...................
Thanks John.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[win]

I soldered a length of copper earth wire from a short length of 2.5mm flat twin and earth, worked fine for me.

Regards Win

[jagnut66]

I have just repaired it with some of this:

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-p ... 39608.html

Nice and cheap, with enough length left over to repair another, should I need to at some point.
Reassembled it even seems to 'lock' better than it did before!
For a couple of quid a repair anyone can do!
Best wishes,
Mike.

[Mark Wilson]

Thanks Mike - that confirms that at least I did manage to deduce the shape of the missing springy bit! I made one out of the thin spring steel blade of a filler knife, but it doesn't work reliably enough. Might try again now I know the shape was correct. I assume yours is all back together now, but rough dimensions, particularly how thick it was, would be really useful. On reflection I probably didn't need to use spring steel as the enclosing collar would provide the springiness.

Mark

[jagnut66]

rough dimensions, particularly how thick it was, would be really useful.

Hi Mark,
If you want to make one then I would mainly use the slot as my guide. This is a very small item, so I understand how it would be easily lost and I take it you've been round with a vacuum since it made its break for freedom........
Basically (and these are very rough measurements, as you say mine is back together and I'm in no hurry to tempt fate) no more than 1mm thick x 6mm wide x 4mm tall (rounded to suit the collar).
When fitted the collar will sit proud by about 1.5mm to 2mm when the choke is in and flush when the choke is out and the 'tab' engaged in a slot.
Below is a close up of the 'tab', so you get a clearer idea of the shape.

Morris Minor early Series 2 choke cable assembly (2).jpg (36.24 KiB) Viewed 1532 times

Obviously if you make it bigger than the measurements, that I've guessed at above, then you can file it down until it fits.
Mild steel would probably be easier to work with and file.
As to fitting the replacement cable, I heated the part it goes into over a ring on my gas hob, it slides in easily when the solder is molten (I did the same to remove the old cable).
I was able to hold the bakelite knob with my hand whilst guiding the wire in, this held by pliers. If you hold the handle at a slight angle you shouldn't need fresh solder, as it doesn't run out.
When I cut it to length I heated the cut ends of the new cable (the part used and the length going into my spares stash) until it just started to turn red and then melted solder into it, Hopefully this will stop it fraying too quickly.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[Mark Wilson]

Thanks, great help - should get this sorted tomorrow.