Electronic Ignition

[annsteel]

Hello All,

What is the consensus with regard to electronic ignition? I have an original 66 convertible and wanted to keep it that way. The dealer who put together a new engine etc suggested keeping the normal distributor & points. Does a car run better with electronic ignition, economy etc or is it a pain if you breakdown. The dealer seemed to think points etc were best as most mechanics could get me going by the roadside but with electronics there could be a big problem?
Thank you for your thoughts.
Ann

[geoberni]

Well you're going to get comments either way, Pros and Cons.

it's a bit like Marmite around here...

As to the ability of roadside mechanics, I broke down twice on the A1 with an intermittent and both times the RAC guys blamed the Electronics unit.
First time when we got the car home, it started and ran without problem, hence why a few weeks later we had the same issue, unexplained dead ignition.
This time when we got home, the fault remained. I tracked it to a broken Coil winding solder joint.
So the RAC guys could have found it, if their impulse wasn't to immediately blame the Electronics.

[ManyMinors]

You seem to have already answered your own question. If you want to keep it original and your mechanic is of the same opinion, why change it? If there is nothing wrong with what you have then all will be fine and the car should continue to run well as it probably has for more than 50 years Your car should only require simple routine maintenance. I have continued to run my own Minor with the original ignition system. It give me no problems. Some owners like to change things and fit upgraded brakes, 5speed gearboxes, different seats and electronic bits and pieces etc. There is nothing wrong with doing so if that is what you want, but I prefer to keep my car simple to understand and easy to work on. If it is all pretty original it is easier to understand and obtain parts for.

Whichever path you follow, the most important thing is to purchase good quality components. Just because something is "new" it doesn't mean it is any good.

[geoberni]

I should just add that my car had already electronic ignition when I brought it; if it hadn't, I probably wouldn't have changed it, but I thought I'd give it a go.

Whichever path you follow, the most important thing is to purchase good quality components. Just because something is "new" it doesn't mean it is any good.

Totally agree there, the market place is full of cheap rubbish, especially things electrical related, but also applies to brake/clutch linings, and so on...
Unfortunately the asking price is no way to judge quality; some will sell high just to make the consumer think it's better quality, yet it might have come from the same production line as the cheaper version. Sometimes it's a case of going on personal recommendations.

[annsteel]

Hello All.
Thank you again for all your helpful replies. I do agree keep original electronics and it should keep going!
Mine seems to be fine but like others I have had "new" dodgy condensers before which is just a pain by the road as the car just does not go evenly! Thought with electronics this would be eliminated?
Is the economy better with electronics rather than points etc?
Ann

[ManyMinors]

The economy will only be better with electronics if the car wasn't set up and running properly before. If the car is in good condition and fitted with good quality points and condenser etc. it will run just as well and be just as economical as with electronic ignition. If you have had condensers fail, then they were not good quality ones. I thoroughly recommend you purchase these parts from "The Distributor Doctor" (google him). I - and many others - have never had any trouble with his products.

As you say. Nobody wants to be broken down at the side of the road.

[paul 300358]

I thoroughly recommend you purchase these parts from "The Distributor Doctor" (google him)

I also recommend you use the distributor doctors points, rotor arm and condenser.

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

One missed spark on those top fuel dragsters costs $80,000. They do not use electronic ignition.

[KeithL]

I also recommend you use the distributor doctors points, rotor arm and condenser.

And if you do decide to go electronic then The Distributor Doctor is still your man. Why don't you ring him and get his opinion on points and condenser vs electronic?

[myoldjalopy]

As many have suggested above, if you use good quality components from Distributor Doctor, and service the dizzy as required you will be fine. Yes, if you successfully fit electronic ignition you don't need to service the dizzy periodically but if it goes wrong in the middle of B-F-N in the middle of a dark and stormy night, you are jiggered. I use the good Doctor's condensor and points and have had no problems since doing so - over 7 years now

[liammonty]

As has been said by several - use quality components from Distributor Doctor (Martin Jay) and you'll be fine.

I completely agree with ManyMinors regarding his comments on economy, starting etc. Anyone who tells you that they noticed a significant improvement in these areas when they converted to electronic ignition is simply highlighting the fact that they hadn't got the standard system set up properly! My Minors all start first time, every time, regardless of weather, and I get 40 mpg without trying hard, all using the standard system.

[myoldjalopy]

I concur with all of that, 'liammonty'

[COMMANDER]

I would use points and condenser system every time. The DD is the man to use. I have had two electronic ignition systems fail after a few months in two previous classics.

[MCYorks]

Some of the electronic setups can 'compensate' for a worn distributor to a certain extent and potentially provide a stronger spark.

As an alternative, there's always a half & half arrangement. Something like the old Lucas T.A.C. (Transistor Assisted Contacts). This arrangement keeps the standard points in the distributor but uses a transistor to switch the coil current. Therefore, it more or less stops the points eroding and they last much longer. If the transistor unit ever does fail then it's normally fairly easily switch back to the standard setup at the side of the road just by swapping a few wires.

Even with electronic ignition it's important to point out they are not always a 'fit and forget' option. The distributor will still regular oiling to keep centrifugal advance working. Plus it's worth periodically checking the vacuum advance unit is also working (when fitted) to get the best economy.

Personally I've never had any problems with the standard points, providing they are in good condition and set correctly. They even got me back home once, when the dynamo failed and the battery was down to 6 volts!

[kevin s]

Points are simple to fix and adjust but also prone to timing drift need regular maintenance and generally produce a weaker spark hence why every car produced in the last 20 years or so uses electronic ignition in one from or another. They though use OEM quality parts tested rigorously and designed to last at least 100,000 miles, the same can't always be said of the aftermarket stuff, in fact if anything it's gone downhill over the last few years, one of my cars (lotus elan) has had a Lumentation system on it for more than the 25 years I have owned it and it's never missed a beat but I have heard of several people having problems with modern systems.
On our minor I have fitted an A+ electronic system and carry a spare amplifier (common to the rover V8 in a couple of my other cars). When ours did break down though it was the same as mentioned above, a solder joint inside the coil that had failed, (carry a spare one of those as well now).

[alawrence10360]

So setting aside which system is better
If you go down the electronic route which one has proven the best ?

[KeithL]

I use the Pertronix electronic ignition, supplied by Distributor Doctor. It is a relatively easy job to install and also to revert to points if you wished.