1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

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MorrisJohn
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by MorrisJohn »

liammonty wrote: Fri Jun 18, 2021 10:40 am Thanks for posting the clip. I'm sorry to say that that sounds very much like a grumbly bottom end to me - even at the beginning of the clip, it sounds bad. As already suggested, it would be worth fitting an oil pressure gauge to check the readings. If it gets worse under load, that's potentially indicative of big end bearings; also the case if it gets worse as the engine heats up and the oil thins down.
Thanks. I fear you are correct.

I took another member for a short run this evening. He said it’s 100% not timing related and it’s an unhealthy sounding engine. He wasn’t sure exactly why but suggested bottom end. I think it does get louder when it’s warm and definitely when under load.

I was told some oil thickener if it quietens things down may help confirm it?

I need to get around to fitting the oil gauge, but it’s not looking like good news. And definitely beyond my skills :-? Not really sure where I go from here.

At least I’m not going mad. There have been times I’ve questioned my sanity as it’s taken me so long to figure out.
A bad day with my Volksie still beats a good day at work!

https://www.glasgowmoggies.com
jagnut66
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by jagnut66 »

I need to get around to fitting the oil gauge, but it’s not looking like good news. And definitely beyond my skills :-? Not really sure where I go from here.
I fit an oil pressure gauge as a matter of course these days, except in Sally, as being an earlier Series 2 (Gold Dash) she had one as standard.
Two options on the engine really: 1: Find a local engineering shop or mechanic and get quotes for a rebuild.
Or 2: Source a decent second hand unit.
If you ask around with local owners, plus post in the wanted section on here, someone may have one they are willing to part with but they are not so common these days.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
Chipper
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by Chipper »

With a bit of luck, it may be just worn big end bearings, in which case, you can replace them without having to take the engine out (assuming the crankshaft journals are not badly worn).

You would need to raise the front of the car, remove the sump, check for play in the bearings by waggling the con-rods and remove the big end bearing caps to replace the shells.
Maurice, E. Kent
(1970 Traveller)
MorrisJohn
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by MorrisJohn »

Hmm. Thanks gents. Well I guess the first thing to do is confirm for sure what exactly is wrong using the oil pressure and as per suggestion above from Chipper. Then weigh up the cost of repair versus a good used unit. Then leave it for a year as my wife has forbidden me from spending any more significant money on it until she’s back at work from her forthcoming maternity leave!

Having assured her that Minors are relatively inexpensive and reliable cars to own I think the worst part of it all is the “I told you this would happen”.

Very frustrating with an engine that’s only done a few thousands since a professional rebuild. :cry:

One other question - will continuing to drive the car as it is result in more damage if that’s what it is?
A bad day with my Volksie still beats a good day at work!

https://www.glasgowmoggies.com
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Monty-4
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by Monty-4 »

Assuming it's worn bearings - which would point to an improper build procedure or running the car with no/wrong oil so soon after a rebuild - it could run for quite a lot longer before anything "goes". Months, years even depending on your usage patterns.

Fitting an oil gauge is dead simple, kits with instructions are widely availble, I wouldn't be intimidated by that. Once done, good oil pressure at idle is 60psi cold, 40+psi hot. The other rule of thumb being 10psi per 10mph up to 60, which is the maximum governed by the pressure release valve.

Worn engines that dip into warning light territory at idle, or only reach 40psi at 60mph, have been known to run for miles and miles though!
68' 4-door Saloon, another 'Monty'.
jagnut66
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by jagnut66 »

One other question - will continuing to drive the car as it is result in more damage if that’s what it is?
As above, you can run them, carefully, though the biggest thing will be your continuing disappointment in the lack of performance.
And, as you live in a hilly area, that will put more strain on it.
This looks like one option, plus you could resell the smooth cased gearbox to recoup some of the expense.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144080026845 ... SwMLdgzGcf
Or you could make an offer on this one, however you need you would need to message him first to comfirm if it is a high or low compression unit:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223841395413 ... Sw-qleP9Lb
Ideally, if you go for a replacement unit, you want a high compression one, signified by a 'H' in the engine number as opposed to an 'L'.
The low compression units usually came from vans, there is one on eBay at present, with twin carbs fitted.
Looked good until I saw the 'L'. Low compression units tend to be a bit 'lacklustre' even when in good order.
Example of a Low compression engine number.jpg
Example of a Low compression engine number.jpg (219.58 KiB) Viewed 1184 times
A high compression unit would simply have a 'H' in the place of the 'L'.

Of course these are just options, you must do what finances (and the wife :lol: ) allow.
One advantage of getting another unit though, is that you can get the original rebuilt 'later' and have a good spare. :D
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
paul 300358
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by paul 300358 »

As this is a reconditioned engine, before spending any money, I would be tempted to drop the engine oil, remove the sump and have a look at the big end shells and the centre mains. You could do that with the front of the car on axle stands in a couple of hours.
MorrisJohn
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by MorrisJohn »

Thanks gents. I’m not going to rush into anything. I’ll get the oil pressure gauge connected up, see what’s what and what it suggests is wrong...then I’ll go down the route of getting the sump off and having a look.
A bad day with my Volksie still beats a good day at work!

https://www.glasgowmoggies.com
MorrisJohn
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by MorrisJohn »

Took the car a half hour run today.

50mph on motorway, 5th gear, level surface and the clatty diesel like engine noise (normally only on inclines) appeared on fairly level surfaces, very suddenly got a lot worse and immediately almost all power gone. Limped off motorway exit to a safe parking spot.

Anyway, RAC tow home. Engine was down to two cylinders (1&2). I reckon probably head gasket failure.

Went to check it this evening and my compression test kit broke upon taking it out the box for the first time (note to self: don’t ever buy cheap Chinese crap ever again).

I wonder if this could have been the underlying cause of the clatty sound under load for the last 12 months...but I suppose it could be this has happened as a result of another problem, which has caused the clatty sound.
A bad day with my Volksie still beats a good day at work!

https://www.glasgowmoggies.com
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Monty-4
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Re: 1098cc and Ford T9 Pairing

Post by Monty-4 »

Well at least now you'll know I suppose!

Two cylinders at once does indeed sound like HGF, which is a relatively easy fix assuming no secondary damage.
68' 4-door Saloon, another 'Monty'.
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