Upgrade to Halogen Headlights

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Mike Shipman
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Upgrade to Halogen Headlights

Post by Mike Shipman »

Hi - one of my headlights went this week and Im considering upgrading them to halogen as Ive heard they are far brighter. Is it simply a case of taking out the existing sealed units and replacing them with halogen ones or do I need to do anything elase (eg upgrade dynamo?).
Thanks, Mike.
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minor_hickup
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Post by minor_hickup »

Nope they use the same amount of current. I know some people used relays to stop voltage drop. But they should be fine to just switch over.
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Re: Upgrade to Halogen Headlights

Post by Welung666 »

Mike Shipman wrote:Is it simply a case of taking out the existing sealed units and replacing them with halogen ones
Yes m8, just take out your sealed beams and fit the halogens. One of the easiest jobs I've done ((although I did it the other way round and retro-fitted sealed beams) My Halogens were donated to my ex-landlords Landy for his green lane'ing)
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Scott
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Post by Scott »

The common halogen size here is 60/55w.
I don't know if the later toggle type light switches are better, but the earlier pull type won't last long with that sort of current going through them.
Scott

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SR
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Post by SR »

ive got these in my splitty, locol shop wanted £7 for one bulb. got 2 on ebay for£3 inludiding post, and yhey were boxed
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Post by Nigel2 »

I don't know where Scott gets the idea about pull switches, they are rated at 14 amps and changing to halogen and even if original bulbs are still being used changing over will increase the load by less than 3 amps through the switch, sealed beam units are of course the same as halogen and still within the switch ratings. I have been using halogens for over 7 years with a pull switch and NO problems.
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Scott
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Post by Scott »

Nigel2 wrote:I don't know where Scott gets the idea about pull switches
It's called experience.
Been there, done that. I now fit relays to be safe.

Burn a switch out in the middle of nowhere & you're stuck playing around with wires behind the dash in the dark :-? .

Maybe they were rated at 14A when new. Everything deteriorates with age. The newest of the pull type switches is over 40 years old now.
Scott

[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2484/dcp001046qp.jpg]1962 1000[/url]
[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
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Mike Shipman
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Post by Mike Shipman »

Thanks for your replies - I'll now place my order for some Halogens.
Regards, Mike.
Mike Shipman,
Seaton, Torpoint, Cornwall.
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Post by minor_hickup »

Enjoy! I do a fair bit of night driving and it makes the experience that bit more pleasant.
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Post by bigginger »

Scott wrote:It's called experience.
Been there, done that. I now fit relays to be safe.
Wise words :D You guys have a lot more 'nowhere' too...
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Post by rayofleamington »

I don't know if the later toggle type light switches are better, but the earlier pull type won't last long with that sort of current going through them.
Ah well - mine lasted all the way to Africa, but as the Halogens were the same rating as the sealed beams I was happy enough to have all that extra light for free.
Our pull switch was only 23 years old (if you discount all the years it sat in a Garage in wales)

My Traveller is also on a pull switch with 60/55 sealed beams - has been like that for a long while as the sub looms have paint on them and the respray was approx 10 years ago (the earlier 'low rated' bulbs had different sub looms to the spade type sealed beams). This switch burn out thing certainly isn't something rapid.
However as you say - if your going to be hundreds of miles from civilisation then best to cover your rear!!
Over here, yoiu're unlikely to ever be more than 200 metres out of sight of a street light.
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Scott
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Post by Scott »

rayofleamington wrote:This switch burn out thing certainly isn't something rapid.
That's right. The switch would probably last for years without a problem in "normal" use.
I was doing around 250 miles of night driving each week at the time. The switch would last around 3-4 months before the smell of Lucas smoke would waft from the dash :( .
Scott

[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2484/dcp001046qp.jpg]1962 1000[/url]
[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
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Post by 57traveller »

Mike - it shouldn't be the case in theory, but on the last two occasions I've replaced sealed beams with halogen kits it has been necessary to have the beams adjusted. If you've a Moggie friendly MOT tester, like mine, then it might be worth having the alignment checked after you've done the job. My tester insists that I remove the chrome bezels first, which has to be done anyway for the upgrade, before he'll do the check/adjust.
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Post by Mike Shipman »

I went to install the Halogens last night - one went in OK but the second would not - it appears that the poitioning lugs on the new units (a bent wire configuration as oppoed to a solid glass lug on the Lucas and Unipart originals) holds the Halogen about 1/8" inch proud of the inner unit which means the chrome holder and consequently the bezel wont fit on.
Could I bend the wire lugs in to fit or might this do some other damage?.
Ant advice would be appreciated.
Regards, Mike.
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Seaton, Torpoint, Cornwall.
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Halogens

Post by Willie »

I had no problems when fitting mine and I wonder why one has gone in ok but not the other? Perhaps you have different bowls fitted? Regarding possible realignment of the beams it is perfectly straightforward as all you have to do is park on the level facing a nearby flat surface and, on main beam, adjust until the centre of each light beam is level with the centre height
of the headlamp and pointing forwards in line with the body. Then check that on dipped beam the beams drop and move to the left.
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Post by rayofleamington »

I went to install the Halogens last night - one went in OK but the second would not - it appears that the poitioning lugs on the new units (a bent wire configuration as oppoed to a solid glass lug on the Lucas and Unipart originals) holds the Halogen about 1/8" inch proud
On the ones I used last year I didn't get that problem - I'd guess the part has been made wrong :(
I doubt this will help, but some of the bent metal lugs were different sizes - have you tried it in all possible combinations?
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Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
Mike Shipman
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Post by Mike Shipman »

Hi Willie
Yes trhey are two different bowls - the one that it fits into is the original, the one it doesnt fit into is a replacement. I guess I can either bend the lugs or file out the opening a bit wider - any thoughts?

Ray - ref trying to position it in different locations...I thought you could only install in one position? or did you mean swap the lights withone another?.

Thanks for the replies - its a bit late to go and fiddle now - will try tomorrow.

Regards, Mike.
Mike Shipman,
Seaton, Torpoint, Cornwall.
Mike Shipman
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Post by Mike Shipman »

Hi ,

Just back from our hols and I got out this evening with my extra length self tapping screws and got the 2nd hadlamp fitted. Yippee! - it protrudes through the bezel about 1/4" more than the other but isnt really noticable.

This is the first ever job Ive undertaken on a car! - I know it's not much but I'm pleased with it. :D :D :D

Regards, Mike.
Mike Shipman,
Seaton, Torpoint, Cornwall.
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Post by paulk »

Well done Mate

Will look forward to seeing your good work soon
Paulk


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