Checking timing without timing light
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Checking timing without timing light
Is there any way to time my ignition without using a timing light?
Onne
Onne
Onne van der S. MMOCno 60520 Moderator
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
Turn the crank till the timing mark (a notch in the pulley) is in line with the required tooth on the serated guide (can't remember the increments now). Get a test light or voltmeter on the coil, when the light goes out (or valtage drops to zero) the points are open. If this happens before or after the right notch/ guide alignment then slacken the dizzy clamp and turn it the right way (rotor arm goes anti clockwise, so that way for retardation, clockwise to advance IIRC) till you hit just the right spot.
Never used a strobe on an A series (or Triumph OHV), never had a problem setting the timing either
Never used a strobe on an A series (or Triumph OHV), never had a problem setting the timing either
Well there's not a lot you can do with worn dizzy springs other than replace them, so the static should be as good as any IMOKevin wrote:That is for the static timing only and although its fine its not exactly ideal.
Certainly never had a problem with overheating, rough running, poor economy etc setting my cars that way (at least none of the above from timing problems ;) ) and it can even be done by watching for the spark across the points if there's no tools to hand
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- Minor Friendly
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Yeah, it worked for me for many years. I has a couple of other advantages as well:
- You don't need to jack up the front of the car to be able to aim the timing light at the timing case marks
- You can be in denial about the unstable timing.
Just be aware that you should always turn the crant in the proper direction when you are checking the static timing, otherwise it will be off a bit.
Trev.
- You don't need to jack up the front of the car to be able to aim the timing light at the timing case marks
- You can be in denial about the unstable timing.
Just be aware that you should always turn the crant in the proper direction when you are checking the static timing, otherwise it will be off a bit.
Trev.
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Has any one ever found a source of repacement bob weight springs. I tightened my last one up by heating the last turn to bright red with a micro torch and pushing it back in line then cooled the spring in oil. It took the slack out and made the timing much more stable. It's only the light spring you need to worry about.
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
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I've always used a 12v bulb clipped in parallel with the point contacts. That way the light comes on just as the points open. Seems more positive than waiting for teh light to go out somehow.
Also, trim the setting using the micrometer adjustment on the distributor, rather than the clamp bracket. You'll be surprised how much "jiggle" there is in teh vacuum advance mechanism. This will also help show show the vacuum advance plate isn't jammed.
Also, trim the setting using the micrometer adjustment on the distributor, rather than the clamp bracket. You'll be surprised how much "jiggle" there is in teh vacuum advance mechanism. This will also help show show the vacuum advance plate isn't jammed.
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- Minor Fan
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I always used the bulb method, or alternatively a multimeter. Set static many times, and then checked with a strobe and it was always so close as not to bother adjusting.
My routine was to set the timing to the mark, and then turn the distributor back and forth until the point where the points just started to open (as opposed to just closing) as this is the point where the spark occurs.
My routine was to set the timing to the mark, and then turn the distributor back and forth until the point where the points just started to open (as opposed to just closing) as this is the point where the spark occurs.
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Should have asked at Luton Festival of Transport Roger, at the stall selling rebuilt dizzy`s and bits and pieces.Has any one ever found a source of repacement bob weight springs.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Something really odd has happened to my timing. I put my test lamp on the + terminal of the coil and the other wire on earth.
The bulb lights.
I turn the dizzy through about 45 degrees.....nothing happens.
I open the dizzy and pull the contacts apart by hand. I get the spark at the contacts. The bulb flickers/dims a tad, but does not go out????
The car runs with a lumpy spot at high revs and is about half an inch out on the timing marks when I use a strobe light strobe light on the pully.
I try and twist the dizzy using the strobe light method, but I make it worse no matter which way I turn the dizzy!
What on earth is going on?
The bulb lights.
I turn the dizzy through about 45 degrees.....nothing happens.
I open the dizzy and pull the contacts apart by hand. I get the spark at the contacts. The bulb flickers/dims a tad, but does not go out????
The car runs with a lumpy spot at high revs and is about half an inch out on the timing marks when I use a strobe light strobe light on the pully.
I try and twist the dizzy using the strobe light method, but I make it worse no matter which way I turn the dizzy!
What on earth is going on?
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- Minor Legend
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Mof,
Positive or negative earth? Have you got the coil connected the right way round? If the light only dims slightly, it sounds like it either connected to the wrong coil terminal, or the coil is connected wrongly? What wattage bulb is in your test lamp? 10w or 21w will work better than a low wattage bulb for ignition timing.
For positive earth, the lead from the ignition switch goes to the negative or SW terminal, and the lead to the distributor goes to the positive or CB terminal.
For negative earth it can be a tad more tricky, because, as far as I know, the SW/CB marked coils were assumed for postive earth only, where SW = negative (-ve) and CB = positive (+ve). This means that for negative earth the connections should be revesed, i.e. the lead from the ignition switch goes to the positive or CB terminal, and the lead to the distributor to the negative or SW terminal.
Turn the crank clockwise ONLY to the correct mark on the timing cover. If you overshoot, turn the crank anti-clockwise past the mark and come up again in the clockwise direction. Remove the distributor cap, set the micrometer adjustment to the mid-point and turn on the ignition. Connect a test light to the coil terminal that is connected to the distributor and the other end to earth.
If it lights (points open), then turn the distributor anti-clockwise until the light goes out (points closed). The amount to turn should should be 5/10° at most - any more and it probably won't run!
When the light goes out, turn the distributor gently clockwise until the light just comes on, then lock the distributor clamp (both the clamp and the two 1/4" UNF screws holding the clamp to the block).
Now use the micrometer adjustment to get the final accurate setting by first retarding the ignition until the light goes out, and then advancing it until the light just comes on.
Positive or negative earth? Have you got the coil connected the right way round? If the light only dims slightly, it sounds like it either connected to the wrong coil terminal, or the coil is connected wrongly? What wattage bulb is in your test lamp? 10w or 21w will work better than a low wattage bulb for ignition timing.
For positive earth, the lead from the ignition switch goes to the negative or SW terminal, and the lead to the distributor goes to the positive or CB terminal.
For negative earth it can be a tad more tricky, because, as far as I know, the SW/CB marked coils were assumed for postive earth only, where SW = negative (-ve) and CB = positive (+ve). This means that for negative earth the connections should be revesed, i.e. the lead from the ignition switch goes to the positive or CB terminal, and the lead to the distributor to the negative or SW terminal.
Turn the crank clockwise ONLY to the correct mark on the timing cover. If you overshoot, turn the crank anti-clockwise past the mark and come up again in the clockwise direction. Remove the distributor cap, set the micrometer adjustment to the mid-point and turn on the ignition. Connect a test light to the coil terminal that is connected to the distributor and the other end to earth.
If it lights (points open), then turn the distributor anti-clockwise until the light goes out (points closed). The amount to turn should should be 5/10° at most - any more and it probably won't run!
When the light goes out, turn the distributor gently clockwise until the light just comes on, then lock the distributor clamp (both the clamp and the two 1/4" UNF screws holding the clamp to the block).
Now use the micrometer adjustment to get the final accurate setting by first retarding the ignition until the light goes out, and then advancing it until the light just comes on.
Last edited by IslipMinor on Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Richard
Important to always turn the engine clockwise when checking - never turn it backwards - too much 'slop' creeps in to get an accurate result. In any case - timing best set by advancing until a little pinking is heard on hard acceleration - and then retard it slightly. Then it's set correctly for your engine. May not give the best idling though - in which case the advance curve is not correct. Always worth checking if the vacuum advance is working - because that pulls the timing up at idle and makes the engine more lively - and more economical.