central locking, anyone know how?

Post by **morrisman1** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:28 am

im very tempted to put electric locking into my ute, along with electric windows (but they are sussed out now) but im not quite sure how to go about doing this. i know that a servo motor would be required in each door but how to do the drivers door is the tricky bit i think because the locking mechanism is completely internal from memory.

i saw a morry with it and the car was for sale but the guy woudnt let me know how it worked which was kinda rude i thought.

the final goal is to have remote locking. this is going to be the flashest morry around!

Post by **GAS** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 7:50 am

It already has cenrtal locking,You can reach all the doors from the drivers seat

I used motors from a rover on my mgb and wired them to an alarm system that gave me control via the key fob...

Post by **morrisman1** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:05 am

how did the motors work in the doors?

i guess the MGB would be a little different to the morry mechanism - when you lock a morry door the click is very industrial! more like a clunk and the sound of a jail door shutting!

Post by **GAS** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 8:10 pm

MGB locks are more traditional.
On the moggy you would have to connect a rod onto the locking pin/bolt to the solinoid.This still must let the key operate the lock,if you don't and it blows a fuse,you will be locked out of your car....The boot,i have no clue.....

Best of luck.

Post by **morrisman1** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:48 am

i might just forget the central locking idea, sounds quite complicated in a morry!

ill still go ahead with the electric windows, they are a piece of cake and will be a nice addition to a morry, would surprise a few people.

Post by **Welung666** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:30 am

The easiest way to get central locking on a Minor is a seperate dead bolt system similar to this one

Post by **morrisman1** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:48 pm

i guess it would be. im not keen on doing that though. oh well i guess the electric windows are fancy enough. im going to run on/off/on momentary switches where the choke cable goes and where the starter pull would normally go. ill put the choke knob underneath. i think that will be the tidiest way to do it, i dont really want to have the switches on the doors, i like the clean look.

Post by **paulk** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:36 pm

Often thought about using the existing window handle but then with microswitches activated by a cam behind the door card. Would look just like normal but powered as well, Completly pointless but quite neat

Post by **morrisman1** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 5:05 am

hi, yes that could work depending on how you went about it. it would need two microswitches per direction for that to work. i presume you understand how to wire it up?

Post by **morrisman1** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 9:38 am

heres a picture of the wiring on my switch.

ive got them all finished now and the looms made up. i am going shrinkwrap the cable to the door stay bolt thing as there is no room between the door and doorshut to have anything there. heavy duty shrink wrap is very tough stuff so will stand up to the sliding against the metal. ill be a wee way from installing the system but when it is done then ill let everyone know so you all can have a crack at it!

i have heaps of stuff to do before i will be installing the door stuff, things like actually painting the doors and stuff. i should get onto that aye!

Post by **paulk** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 4:56 pm

it would need two microswitches per direction for that to work

Why? i'd assumed one switch each way, an up and a down. if the switch is released then it should stop (springload the handle to centralise it when let go)

Post by **morrisman1** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 10:24 am

because you need two seperate circuits. you need to have two options, to enable a circuit that operates your motor with normal polarity and another circuit to operate it with reverse polarity.

have a go at drawing a circuit diagram that lets you do this with only two switches, i would almost be tempted to put money on that you couldnt do it.

Post by **paulk** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 6:54 pm

Makes sense, I'm more used to playing with AC motors that have two live feeds and 1 neutral, thought window motors might be similair. I normally only play with leccy windows from the drivers seat

Post by **morrisman1** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:07 pm

how do you reverse an AC motor? do you modify the sine wave or something like that?

Post by **paulk** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 10:24 pm

Not sure (I use them rather than make them) . But i know its simple rather than too fancy, it appears from the outside to just be a seperate winding, but I'm not sure.

Thinking about the window thing, how about a simple 2 switch relay that does all the complex switch over of the positive and negative for each direction then you only need an up micro switch and a down one.

Post by **morrisman1** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 4:54 am

yes you could do it with relays. you would require 2 relays in each door though. i think i am getting the window motors early next week which will be good. i get the ute back from the brake people tomorrow so ill be able to do some other work on it

it will be a while before i get the window motors in and set up because before that i have to get stuff like doors, back panels, bonnets, grill all painted and put together. i cant wait!

Post by **Welung666** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 12:26 pm

You don't need any relays for power windows. The diagram below is very simple and shows 1 window.<br>

<br>

The switch basically swops the polarity of the motor, therefore making the windows go up and down as needed. I can do you a 2 microswitch version if you wanted to keep the original window handle as the 'switch'.

Post by **Welung666** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 12:42 pm

Here you go...
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Post by **morrisman1** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 1:32 pm

are the diodes necessary for a normal switch (wired in that style) or just for the microswitches?

Post by **Welung666** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:01 pm

I've added them as a safety precaution to stop the + and - crossing over during operation. If your wiring is up to scratch and you use good quality normally open microswitches you shouldn't need them.