Remove Control Box - Alternator
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
If the orange boxes are 'fuses' - then it is a VERY bad idea to run all the lights through one fuse...... If you decide to fuse the headlamps - use a separate fuse for each lamp. It's also not usual to fuse the Ignition coil, although no harm I suppose as long as you use a generous rating that won't make a nuisance of itself. I assume too that your switch for the buzzer is a two-way switch.... problem is -it may alert a thief. The alternator is bolted to the engine.....
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
They are fuses - and OK, will re work the wiring for the headlamps.bmcecosse wrote:If the orange boxes are 'fuses' - then it is a VERY bad idea to run all the lights through one fuse...... If you decide to fuse the headlamps - use a separate fuse for each lamp. It's also not usual to fuse the Ignition coil, although no harm I suppose as long as you use a generous rating that won't make a nuisance of itself. I assume too that your switch for the buzzer is a two-way switch.... problem is -it may alert a thief. The alternator is bolted to the engine.....
I don't think the ignition coil is fused in the diagram, but I could be wrong... To me it's just that the power to the coil comes from the unfused side of the fusebox.
You are correct about the buzzer switch - I've already fitted this, my thinking behind it being that yes it will alert the thief, but as the sound doesn't come from near the switch, it may atleast slow the thief down! I would definitely forget the fuel pump if I didn't have the buzzer.
Many thanks for the help bmc, I'll upload a revised diagram when I've done it.
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola
Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Ahh right - I see what you have done - the coil feed then is not 'going through' the fuse.
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Does this look like it would work now?
Everything's the same other than the lights wiring...
Cheers[frame][/frame]
Everything's the same other than the lights wiring...
Cheers[frame][/frame]
Last edited by Tudge on Tue Nov 12, 2013 5:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Tudge,
I really like your wiring diagram. The colours make it very easy to follow. I wish I had it when I rewired Beatrice a few months ago. I fused my fuel pump too; a faulty pump with fuel, heat, and unlimited power seems like a bad combination)! Also I used relays on the headlamps (one for low beams and one for highs).
George
I really like your wiring diagram. The colours make it very easy to follow. I wish I had it when I rewired Beatrice a few months ago. I fused my fuel pump too; a faulty pump with fuel, heat, and unlimited power seems like a bad combination)! Also I used relays on the headlamps (one for low beams and one for highs).
George
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Thanks very much George, it's just an adapted version of Badfelafel's one really...George Smathers wrote:Tudge,
I really like your wiring diagram. The colours make it very easy to follow. I wish I had it when I rewired Beatrice a few months ago. I fused my fuel pump too; a faulty pump with fuel, heat, and unlimited power seems like a bad combination)! Also I used relays on the headlamps (one for low beams and one for highs).
George
In the diagram however, the fuel pump isn't fused - just connected to the unfused side of the fuse box, but you make a good point, maybe that's another fuse to add!
Why did you use relays on the headlamps?
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola
Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Absolutely no need for 'relays' on the headlamps (why would there be??) - KISS (!) - but your fusing is still poor on the headlamps - a fuse blows, and you will be plunged into complete darkness. You need to fuse each filament independently - if you really feel you 'must'. Modern cars do this - but really - it's hardly necessary on a Minor........
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Thanks BMC, I see my problem now! The fuses should be 1 for each headlamp yes? So if one goes the other headlamp is still providing light...?bmcecosse wrote:Absolutely no need for 'relays' on the headlamps (why would there be??) - KISS (!) - but your fusing is still poor on the headlamps - a fuse blows, and you will be plunged into complete darkness. You need to fuse each filament independently - if you really feel you 'must'. Modern cars do this - but really - it's hardly necessary on a Minor........
I'll just take the fuses out of the headlamp circuit...
What do you think of putting a fuse on the fuel pump? To me seems like a good idea (courtesy of George)
Thanks very much for everyone's help, it's great to be able to sort out the wiring before even touching the car!
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola
Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Fuse it if you wish - but make it a high rating, so it 'never' blows .... On a modern - each filament of each headlight is fused - so 4 fuses...... You should try finding them on a Renault Clio, because when a filament blows - it also takes the fuse out......even the workshop manual didn't tell me - and the Renault forum is as useful as a chocolate plug spanner.......
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Sounds like a nightmare! I have to say this forum is the bees knees, it's a constant source of info. And I was planning on bridging all fuses with wire & testing the amps of each circuit individually to work out what fuse to use. What sortof leeway should I add, I was thinking 150% of max. current, so 15 amp fuse for a circuit drawing 10 amps?
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola
Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
If they are 'slow blow' - the inrush current when a headlamp filament is switched on can be very high - but of course only lasts a fraction of a second till the filament heats up. A 55 or 60 Watt headlamp draws 5 amps - I would fuse at no less than 10 amp - which is what the Clio uses.
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Niceone, cheers. So I'll use around double the current draw for all the fuses. And I'll get slow blow fuses for all of 'em too. Thanks.
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
I put relays on the headlamp circuits because I wanted to run 60 watt headlamps while retaining the dash pull switch. Also the wiring loom I purchased from one of the major suppliers (rhymes with a bodily function) had very thin wires (16 or 18 gauge) so I needed to run new wires anyway.
George
George
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Re: Remove Control Box - Alternator
Just sorted schematic yet again, got it all properly done now:
http://postimg.org/image/ca5mx517l/
http://postimg.org/image/v7y6075kb/
Couldn't upload directly to the forum because the pics are too big!
Thanks again
http://postimg.org/image/ca5mx517l/
http://postimg.org/image/v7y6075kb/
Couldn't upload directly to the forum because the pics are too big!
Thanks again
1965 2Dr - She's called Lola