URGENT Break light not working.

[lenthall123]

Hi guys, I have a 56 Morris 1000, break lights havent been working recently, RAC came and said that it was the brake light switch. I have ordered another one (Lucas Connectors Brake light switch), would it take long to fit? seeing as I have a day or two before I have to go back to uni. Any help would be fantastic! thank you

[simmitc]

In theory it's a 5 - 10 minute job, but it all depends on how corroded the old one is, and how easily it comes unscrewed. Make sure that you fully grip and support the union into which the switch is screwed, otherwise it is liable to twist and distort the three pipes. Once supported, simply remove the wires, unscrew the old switch, screw in the new one, and reconnect the wires. I recommend priming the new switch with a little brake fluid to avoid an airlock - keep your finger over the hole until the last second in order to keep the fluid in, and immediately remove any spillage to avoid damaging the paintwork. Good luck.

[StaffsMoggie]

Brake light switch is under the bonnet. Have a look down the side of the radiator, to the left as you look at it and you will see it. The switch has two wires connected to it.

[bmcecosse]

RAC came out to you because the brake lights aren't working??? Wow!! I'm amazed.... To check - join the two wires on the switch together - are the lights on now when you switch on the ignition??? If they are - then indeed it is the switch. If not - then it's not the switch.... Problem is getting access to unscrew the switch - and also great danger that it will twist round taking all the other brake pipe connections with it! Make sure you have a spanner (or socket - but make sure it doesn't mangle the connectors) that fits the switch hex and some method of holding the brake pipe connector junction while you unscrew the old switch. As it comes away - fluid will start to flow from the opening - so pack some cloth around to catch this (since it destroys paint..) - final hazard is that some brake switches seem to have a different thread....so you need to hope the new one is same as the old one you are taking out. Don't force it in if the thread doesn't seem to pick up right away. May be an idea to have someone ready to put a thumb over the opening when you take away the old switch - to give you time to compare the threads on the two switches.... Good luck!! And finally - check and top up the brake fluid level when you are finished.

[seriesmm_1]

Agree with all Bmc has advised,I recently had the same problem & failed to unscrew the switch had to totally dismantle all the brake lines attached to it.take it off the body,put it in a vice few taps with a mallet & eventually it gave way what was going to be a 20 minute job took alot longer so be prepared

[autolycus]

All excellent advice so far: I'd add two little extra bits.

Apply the brakes a few times just before you start to unscrew the switch - the master cylinder is designed to leave a very small residual pressure in the system, and it's easier to deal with a bit more fluid spilling than to deal with the opposite, i.e. air getting into the system.

I wouldn't try changing a switch that may not have been moved for years unless I was equipped, in every sense, to deal with the possibilities of the brakes needing bleeding and even pipes and wheel cylinders needing replacement. Others have warned how easy it is to get air in the system, or damage pipes, and when you come to bleed brakes there's always a chance that nipples will be seized and will shear off.

Or it may just unscrew immediately, and the replacement may go straight in: five minutes and the job's a good'un.

But, as Roy says, first check that it is the switch that's faulty.

Kevin

[DaisyMayFozz]

if you do have to replace the switch I found that mine was solid, so I lashed my switch with plus-gas, 2 mins later it came off like it had never been on.