Gentlemen, many thanks for your inputs.
Dizzy Doc is currently closed for a period but a ‘reddish’ rotor has solved the issue and I’m up and running again.
Same lesson every time - do the checks and start with the cheap parts
Pete
Just won't start
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 1664
- Joined: Thu May 12, 2016 6:33 am
- MMOC Member: No
Re: Just won't start
Boris64,
Just an observation, but you only seemed to be using your multimeter for measuring 12 volts. It has both resistance and ammeter settings which can be useful (although not actually needed for diagnosing the simple Kettering ignition system).
Voltage is not the only criterion - one requires current to flow at the appropriate times (energy pased is potential difference multiplied by the current flowing). No current through the points will mean no chance of a spark (current has to be interrupted ‘instantaneously’ to provide the rapidly collapsing magnetic field in the coil windings).
Coil can be tested simply by flashing the terminal and checking for the HTdischarge. Points are checked by checking with the known good coil and still getting a HT discharge. Likewise the conenser.
If those are OK, there should be sparks at the plugs. No spark at a plug could be a faulty plug - substitution with a good plug easily proves if it is a faulty plug. Otherwise, the fault must now lie within the HT distribution - rotor, distributor cap or plug lead(s). It is financially prudent to determine which of these three are in need of replacent/repair.
Roadside repairs can be effected, or at least diagnosed, without recourse to any specialist tools. Unfortunately electronic ignition systems are not generally repairable and only supply checks can be carried out by the average motorist.
Just an observation, but you only seemed to be using your multimeter for measuring 12 volts. It has both resistance and ammeter settings which can be useful (although not actually needed for diagnosing the simple Kettering ignition system).
Voltage is not the only criterion - one requires current to flow at the appropriate times (energy pased is potential difference multiplied by the current flowing). No current through the points will mean no chance of a spark (current has to be interrupted ‘instantaneously’ to provide the rapidly collapsing magnetic field in the coil windings).
Coil can be tested simply by flashing the terminal and checking for the HTdischarge. Points are checked by checking with the known good coil and still getting a HT discharge. Likewise the conenser.
If those are OK, there should be sparks at the plugs. No spark at a plug could be a faulty plug - substitution with a good plug easily proves if it is a faulty plug. Otherwise, the fault must now lie within the HT distribution - rotor, distributor cap or plug lead(s). It is financially prudent to determine which of these three are in need of replacent/repair.
Roadside repairs can be effected, or at least diagnosed, without recourse to any specialist tools. Unfortunately electronic ignition systems are not generally repairable and only supply checks can be carried out by the average motorist.
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:05 pm
- Location: West Yorkshire
- MMOC Member: Yes
Re: Just won't start
I recently converted my car to Accuspark electronic ignition, it was already fitted with a Lumenition System which turned out to be the problem I was having.
The Accuspark kit came with a complete new distributor and new coil as well for around £70.
It made a big difference to the running of my car, so as a precaution against future failures I bought a second electronic module and fitted it to the original distributor which I now carry as a spare along with the original coil and a spare SU pump.
I can only wonder what it will be that fails and lets me down in future, because sods law dictates it will not be the spares I am carrying
Phil
The Accuspark kit came with a complete new distributor and new coil as well for around £70.
It made a big difference to the running of my car, so as a precaution against future failures I bought a second electronic module and fitted it to the original distributor which I now carry as a spare along with the original coil and a spare SU pump.
I can only wonder what it will be that fails and lets me down in future, because sods law dictates it will not be the spares I am carrying
Phil
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2534
- Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:32 pm
- Location: Kernow
- MMOC Member: Yes