Hi all
I have a 1967 1098 that has decided not to start. The car turns over fine but doesn't seem to fire. Before you start saying its the coil I tried a new one and it still won't go. Its had nearly all the ignition system replaced, coil, plugs, leads, cap and rotor. It has electronic ignition and an alternator conversion. I don't think there is power getting to the coil but can't seem to work out why.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Starting Problems
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pgp001
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Re: Starting Problems
No power to the coil should be easy to trace, maybe a wire loose on the ignition switch.
Just temporarily rig up a supply to the coil from the battery and see if it fires up, then at least you know you are on the right track if it does.
It could be any number of reasons, you just need to thnk logically and eliminate the obvious ones first.
Phil
Just temporarily rig up a supply to the coil from the battery and see if it fires up, then at least you know you are on the right track if it does.
It could be any number of reasons, you just need to thnk logically and eliminate the obvious ones first.
Phil
Re: Starting Problems
Welcome to the forum. You say that most of the system has been changed and that electronic ignition has been fitted. Has the car ever run since all those changes were made? If "no" then it's likely to be a problem with what's been done; if "yes" then something has failed and it's just a question of working out what.
Has the car been converted to -ve earth, or is it still +ve earth? Most electronic systems require conversion, but some do not. What make is the electronic system?
Do you have a multimetrer / volt meter or 12v lamp available for testing? The first question is whether power is reaching the coil. Disconnect the white wire from the coil. With the ignition "on", use a test device to check for 12v. If OK, then reconnect the white wire and disconnect the other low tension lead. Now check for 12v at the coil terminal. If OK, reconnect the low tension wire.
Report results.
If supply and coil both OK, then remove the high tension wire from the dizzy cap and position the end close to the cylinder block - a 1/4 inch gap should be fine. Turn the engine over and see if a spark appears between the lead and the block. Report back ioncluding a description of the spark - weak or strong, and colour.
Has the car been converted to -ve earth, or is it still +ve earth? Most electronic systems require conversion, but some do not. What make is the electronic system?
Do you have a multimetrer / volt meter or 12v lamp available for testing? The first question is whether power is reaching the coil. Disconnect the white wire from the coil. With the ignition "on", use a test device to check for 12v. If OK, then reconnect the white wire and disconnect the other low tension lead. Now check for 12v at the coil terminal. If OK, reconnect the low tension wire.
Report results.
If supply and coil both OK, then remove the high tension wire from the dizzy cap and position the end close to the cylinder block - a 1/4 inch gap should be fine. Turn the engine over and see if a spark appears between the lead and the block. Report back ioncluding a description of the spark - weak or strong, and colour.
Re: Starting Problems
Thanks for the information. I know where I'll start looking, for the white wire as the coil only has Red and Black attached going to the Distributor for the electronic ignition.
Re: Starting Problems
have you tried the simple test of removing a plug and laying it on the block then spinning engine to see if you are getting a spark at the plug.Hold plug onto block with insulated pliers or just a length of wood.