Sticking trafficator

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jagnut66
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Sticking trafficator

Post by jagnut66 »

Hi,
I have a trafficator that is slow to rise up and the coil of wire on it gets warm to touch very quickly as a result.
Concerned that it might overheat I removed it from the car and replaced it with a spare that I had, which works fine.
However I was wondering whether it might just be through lack of use and I can manipulate the mechanism on the removed unit to free it up or whether I should just write it off as old / worn out and bin it?
They were taped up by the previous owners of Elsie May and I don't know how long they were like that with the wiring disconnected.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
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geoberni
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by geoberni »

Mike
with it off the car, if you manipulate the actual 'catch part' at the top to release it, how easily does it move?
I suspect it's just gunked up with grime and dust. Short of dismantling it, the first thing I'd try is to flush the bore of the solenoid out with some WD40 or similar fluid.
Spray, soak a while, move about, repeat and see what happens.
Basil the 1955 series II

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MCYorks
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by MCYorks »

jagnut66 wrote: Sat May 15, 2021 12:52 pm Hi,
I have a trafficator that is slow to rise up and the coil of wire on it gets warm to touch very quickly as a result.
Concerned that it might overheat I removed it from the car and replaced it with a spare that I had, which works fine.
However I was wondering whether it might just be through lack of use and I can manipulate the mechanism on the removed unit to free it up or whether I should just write it off as old / worn out and bin it?
Hi Mike,
I would check the voltage stamped on the trafficator unit first. It's possible a previous owner has inadvertently fitted a 6 volt trafficator. They were available in both 12 or 6 volt versions. If it is a 12 volt unit and it's overheating quickly, then some of the solenoid coil winding's could be shorted out and it's drawing too much current.

Personally I would never bin a faulty trafficator, because I don't believe new units are available. They can be rebuilt and the coils rewound, but the rivets have to be drilled out. May be you could donate it to someone who can repair it? :wink:
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geoberni
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by geoberni »

MCYorks wrote: Sat May 15, 2021 1:47 pm
Hi Mike,
I would check the voltage stamped on the trafficator unit first. It's possible a previous owner has inadvertently fitted a 6 volt trafficator. They were available in both 12 or 6 volt versions.
I would say that whilst a 6v unit being given a 12v supply would likely make it a bit warm, ....it would also flick out with such force it's hardly going to be described as
slow to rise up
......
The Maintenance Manual Section P9 speaks of correct lubrication with the 'merest trace of oil' but to my engineer's mind is quite inadequate on explaining the need to keep the mechanism clean.

There's a very good chance the trafficator has got surface rust on the solenoid shaft.
Basil the 1955 series II

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myoldjalopy
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by myoldjalopy »

Yes, I have freed up old trafficators in the past by cleaning them up. After all these years rust and road grime can clog them up. If the shaft is very rusty, some very fine emery paper used with the WD40 can help. Make sure the hinge is clean and lubed as well.....
jagnut66
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by jagnut66 »

Hi,
It states 12V on the side of it.
The 'catch' is stiff, I can easily manipulate it but then when applying what I judge to be the force the mechanism would use when connected / under normal operation (ie: less strength involved) I can see why it would struggle to operate under its own steam.
The shaft does show signs of rust however once past the 'click' of the catch I can rock it in and out of its shaft with no resistance or noise (ie: the grating of a rusty shaft) whatsoever.
I think it is this catch that you mention that is the issue but I will try WD40 (or plusgas?) on it / in the shaft.
Below is some pictures of it, if they help with diagnosis.
If I am unable to fix it I will happily 'donate' it to someone who is happy to drill the rivits out of it.
Thanks and best wishes,
Mike.
DSCF3828.JPG
DSCF3828.JPG (602.44 KiB) Viewed 1542 times
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DSCF3829.JPG (304.01 KiB) Viewed 1542 times
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DSCF3831(1).JPG (605.15 KiB) Viewed 1542 times
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DSCF3832(1).JPG (293.94 KiB) Viewed 1542 times
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
MCYorks
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by MCYorks »

That looks better than some trafficators I've seen in the past. May be with a good clean to remove the old oil and dirt from the mechanism. Followed by some very light lubrication, as people on here have already suggested, and you could have a working trafficator again :D
I don't think the solenoid shaft was originally lubricated, but just plated to stop it rusting. The plating will probably have worn off after 60 years use, so once you've cleaned off the rust a small drop of light oil may be required to prevent it coming back.
jagnut66 wrote: Sat May 15, 2021 12:52 pm the coil of wire on it gets warm to touch very quickly as a result.
Only concern is how warm and how quickly?
My Lucas book states that the 12 volt units normally draw about 3 amps at 12 volts, which is 36 watts, so they will get warm after some use. Do you have any way to measure the current it's drawing? If the current is significantly higher than 3 amps then it could indicate a problem with the solenoid coil. The Lucas book also states that when testing they should still operate correctly down to 9 volts.
jagnut66
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by jagnut66 »

Well, I cleaned it up and removed the rust, soaked it in plusgas overnight and wiped off any excess in the morning....
Reassembled it....
Now it doesn't want to work at all........... :roll:
C'est la vie......
I'm sure I spotted that club spares have some on an exchange basis, I'll double check but if so then I think this is the route I'll go.
I like to have a working pair as spares, just in case.
Also presumably it will be refurbished and made to work again and benifit someone else, so win win.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
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geoberni
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by geoberni »

Mike
Did you give it a little bit of oil after cleaning? Being well cleaned but not lubricated, you'll have quite a bit of drag between the moving surfaces.
You might have broken one of the solder connections, have you done a continuity check of the coil?
Basil the 1955 series II

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jagnut66
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Re: Sticking trafficator

Post by jagnut66 »

Hi Berni,
Yes, it was lightly oiled.
Nothing appears to have been broken.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
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