As mentioned above, dip the bullets in silicone grease or similar before re-fitting them and you'll be fine for years.
Regarding soldering, its generally frowned up on. I design motorsport chassis looms and everything is crimped. Solder can create brittle weak points that will eventually fail. Once you've got the right too, crimping is also easier!
Seperating rusty bullet connectors?
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Re: Seperating rusty bullet connectors?
Glad to be back!
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Re: Seperating rusty bullet connectors?
I only ever solder the ends (where the wire sticks through the bullet connector) after crimping, to keep the wire in place. Mostly if I think the wire is a bit thin for the connector.
Best wishes,
Mike.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
Re: Seperating rusty bullet connectors?
Nothing wrong with soldering if it's done correctly, but crimping is more easily automated and quicker in a production situation. Plus you don't have to buy solder, and deal with flux and fume extractionalexmcguffie wrote: ↑Mon Nov 01, 2021 8:10 pm
Regarding soldering, its generally frowned up on. I design motorsport chassis looms and everything is crimped. Solder can create brittle weak points that will eventually fail. Once you've got the right too, crimping is also easier!
Trouble is I've seen too many DIY jobs where someone has used the wrong crimping tool or connector for the cable size.
There are several soldered connections on my Moggy, which are still going strong after 50+ years! However, I have seen some Lucas connectors that were neither soldered or crimped, but actually resistance welded
Re: Seperating rusty bullet connectors?
If your connectors are badly corroded cut them out and replace
If they are just tight you can warm up with a hot air gun and slide off or slit the PVC or rubber sleeve and pry the side of the connector free from the bullet with a small screwdriver or blade.
A great variety of kits for replacement parts and various tools can be bought here:
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components
I generally prefer solder bullets and the tinned type such as those made by Ripaults.
or these which I think are brass type
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... category/6
TAUPE
If they are just tight you can warm up with a hot air gun and slide off or slit the PVC or rubber sleeve and pry the side of the connector free from the bullet with a small screwdriver or blade.
A great variety of kits for replacement parts and various tools can be bought here:
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components
I generally prefer solder bullets and the tinned type such as those made by Ripaults.
or these which I think are brass type
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... category/6
TAUPE
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Re: Seperating rusty bullet connectors?
Just a couple of things:
WD-40 will not attack rubber but is not a great conductor either. It does tend to go 'sticky' after a time so is not the best for door locks or ratchet screwdrivers.
Rubber grease (I use Castrol GRR) will keep water out but again is no great conductor.
Metal based high temperature 'never seize' is a pretty good conductor, corrosion preventative and very good on the horn slip ring. Wipe away excess at each location.
WD-40 will not attack rubber but is not a great conductor either. It does tend to go 'sticky' after a time so is not the best for door locks or ratchet screwdrivers.
Rubber grease (I use Castrol GRR) will keep water out but again is no great conductor.
Metal based high temperature 'never seize' is a pretty good conductor, corrosion preventative and very good on the horn slip ring. Wipe away excess at each location.
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BMWs 730,735,740 (matching trailer),750 and X5 4.4
Jaguar E Type V12 manual
Daimler and matching trailer
Minor Traveller
Alvis Stalwart