What would that be?

[pradeepprabhua]

[frame][/frame]

[drivewasher]

The journals on that crank are knackered! They should be smooth, perfectly round within tolerance & a finish like a mirror. It needs a regrind if there is or will be enough steel left. There are limits as to how much can be ground off. You need to get some good advice from a good engine reconditioning shop.

[pradeepprabhua]

Hello,
Yes there is enough white metal/steel left on the crank as we have measured and i agree with you that it should be like mirror finish.
Have sent email to Mr Bryan- the spares man on m requirement.

[mike.perry]

Are you sure that engine was not repaired by a butcher?
If the crankshaft bearing surfaces are damaged or worn then they will need regrinding. Check the minimum grind that you can do then before you grind make sure that you can get the correct size bearings. The bores can be re sleeved and standard pistons fitted. It is recommended that you fit new con rods.
Make sure that you fit a good quality head gasket. It should drop easily over the studs without sticking. The outside edge should be turned over and seamed. A poor gasket will only be seamed around the combustion chamber.
Oil pressure should be 60-65lbs running and 35 to 40 hot tickover. If you had mentioned the oil pressure earlier then an engine strip down would have been recommended.

[drivewasher]

Hello,
Yes there is enough white metal/steel left on the crank as we have measured and i agree with you that it should be like mirror finish.
Have sent email to Mr Bryan- the spares man on m requirement.

The white metal surface is ONLY on the shells, the crank is just steel ground to fit the dimensions of the shells.
I honestley think you are a tad out of your depth on this one.

[pradeepprabhua]

Hello Mr Mike,
he must have been half a butcher, as he had not even mentioned of replacing the con rod bearings & main bearings. Neither i had seen them- i wasn't there when it was opened the previous time.
Yes the crank shaft can be regrind - the present readings are as given below
Crankshaft : Main bearing area – 41.40 mm = 1.629921 inches
Connecting Rod bearing area – 39.60 mm = 1.5590 inches.

there is already a sleeve in the bore whose readings are : 57mm =2.244 mm and varies either < 57mm or > 57mm ( there is some be some ovality in the bore)
If we find new sleeves then shall go with std pistons which i shall buy from club spares.
This time have taken the engine to a workshop where the other new-gen cars/jeep/motorcycles are given for re conditioning.
The mechanics mentioned that we will have to regrind the crankshaft if we are going to next size bearings.
They told me to get +20 con rod bearings and +30 main bearings the crank needs regrinding to make the surface smooth & match the mentioned size bearings.
However i shall go and check along with him on the regrind level as mentioned in the manual.

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Earlier the head gasket was old one fixed back with red silicone and had no leakage. However have purchased gasket set from " gaskets from classics" as recommended earlier.
will post update on the progress.

Hello drive washer.. may be a tad who's learning and do want to ruin the engine in the process. my mistake that i used there the wrong word "white metal".

[drivewasher]

Yes pradeepprabhua just a communication difference, we all have our own idea of what someone else means.
The silicone sealant just confirms the butcher theory!

[MarkyB]

While you are getting the bottom end sorted out have a look the the valve lift and thickness of the head.
From you pitures it would appear that the valaves on 3 and 4 are getting very close to the head.

[pradeepprabhua]

Yes mr marky . You are right. I did not observe that.
The engine is now completely strip down . That must have happened whilst trying to adjust the valves after which we used to hear the tappet sound ( that's what we say here) like the valves are jumping.
Will make a note of it.
The following spares are ordered from club spares
One set standard pistons with rings
One set main bearings
One set valve guides- they are worn out and the valves have a play when inserted.

One set gaskets purchased earlier from gaskets from classics.

Managed to arrange the following in india.
One set connecting rod bearings
One set valves.
Presently on the search for sleeves to fit the standard pistons .

Taking all the time and consulting people so as to get back the car on road in a correct way.

Will post the updates and queries that I will get.
Regards

[colin addison]

Cylinder liner sleeves are available from Club Spares (Bryan), as are standard pistons. I had my engine sleeved last summer.
You MUST make certain that the engine builder/machinist knows what he is doing with this job!!!!
He will also need to get all the head studs out and machine the top of the block flat, to ensure that the sleeves are flush with the block face. If any studs need replacing then they are available from ESM either as a set or individually.
best of luck
Colin

[pradeepprabhua]

Thanks for the info Mr Colin. The sleeves aren't available, bought some other items from the club spares.
Only one stud thread rusted, will get a one locally.
Haven't got the sleeves yet from any source .

have a leak in the gearbox as shown in picture below. What is that screw, can i open it? How to arrest that leak?
i think it holds something from the inside that's why its there.[frame][/frame]

[mike.perry]

That is the plug for the end of the layshaft. Do not unscrew it unless you know what you are doing or the layshaft will drop off and you will have to strip the gearbox. Try tightening it. Are you sure that is where the oil is leaking, it normally leaks from the scroll on the front plate behind the thrust bearing. If it is only a small amount then I would ignore it.

[pradeepprabhua]

Hi,
Noted, I won't remove it.. Will check if It's loose and will not try to overtighten it.
It's just little oil.

[pradeepprabhua]

Hi all,
Still not able to find any source for standard sleeves , any idea from where I can get them.
Below is the photo of the gearbox oil level gauge. Was already broken when I got the gear box.
What is the standard height of the gauge and the level marks.[frame][/frame]

[pradeepprabhua]

Hello,
1. the crank shaft re-grind done.
2. New valve guides in place.
3. New valves will be used and the same are set as per the seats.
4. New bore in place
5. New +20 size connecting rod bearings and are fit to the rods
6. New +30 size main bearings in place.
7. Standard pistons with rings
All above spares (except valves) were sourced from MMOC Club spares
the following are the measurement readings taken in the workshop by.

-connecting rod bearing readings .
Bearing 1: 39.46 mm = 1.5535 inch
Bearing 2: 39.48 mm = 1.5543 inch
Bearing 3: 39.45 mm = 1.5531 inch
Bearing 4: 39.46 mm = 1.5535 inch


-Main bearing readings .
Big End Bearing: 41.25 mm = 1.6240 inch
Centre Bearing : 41.27 mm = 1.6248 inch
Free End Bearing 1: 41.26 mm = 1.6244 inch

Bore size
Cylinder 1: 57 mm = 2.2441 inch
Cylinder 2: 57 mm = 2.2441 inch
Cylinder 3: 57 mm = 2.2441 inch
Cylinder 4: 57 mm = 2.2441 inch

Piston Size: 56.97 mm
Bore : 57 mm
Bore clearance : 0.002[/b]

posting some pictures and are as below[frame][/frame]

[pradeepprabhua]

con rod bearing
[frame][/frame]

Piston
[frame][/frame]

Standard piston set with rings
[frame][/frame]

Cam Shaft[frame][/frame]

valve guides[frame][/frame]

The crankshaft was already put in place when i went to pick the engine from the work shop. they must have checked for rotation on the test bench.[frame][/frame]

[pradeepprabhua]

As i was taking the pictures observed some fine metal particles and also the engine block was cleaned for re painting.
doubted if any metal particle could have entered the oil line and wanted to remove the crankshaft before i could get the block only to clean. I removed the crank shaft and found very fine metal on the fly wheel end main bearing and very fine marks on the bearing ( the upper bearing only)
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[pradeepprabhua]

Bore and valve seat, see arrow marked in below picture

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

close view for one of the seat where the gap/cut caused during grinding. worried about this one
The exact seating of valve is a little below. Will that cause any problem.[frame][/frame]

all was well until i saw this. Any suggestions / solution for this one (if it's a problem) ?

Also want to flush the oil line what should i do?
Any special instructions or precautions I need to look into as I proceed from this stage?
thanks

[drivewasher]

The valve seats on the smooth grey ish ground in part on the inside of the "Hole" if you drop the valves in loose you will see what I mean. When they are ground in there will be a mating surface in the same place on the head of the valve (the seat)

[pradeepprabhua]

While assembling back found main bearing bolts and big end bolts stretched.. Had to put new ones . some pictures below.
Tightened the main bearing and big end bearing as per the mentioned torque settings. big end bearing bolts below
[frame][/frame]
main bearing studs below
[frame][/frame]

all connected with correct torque settings[frame][/frame]

regards
pradeep