Lowlight rear bumper bits
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Lowlight rear bumper bits
Does anyone happen to have a Lowlight rear bumper in bits at the moment?
I have several sets of chrome blades plus the restored painted valences but there seems to be a shortage in the shed of the sprung steel bars. The later cars seem to have an extra inch or so between the middle 2 bumper holes so I can maybe cut one and weld it shorter but I'm not sure if there are any other dimensional changes. The way to tell if you have a Lowlight bar is that it is made from flat rather than the curved section of the later cars.
If anyone can kindly take a photo for me then I can probably tell if these ones will do but I doubt it would be possible to work it out if the bumpers are still on a car. I'm getting sooooo close to finishing it!!!
Thanks!
[frame][/frame]
I have several sets of chrome blades plus the restored painted valences but there seems to be a shortage in the shed of the sprung steel bars. The later cars seem to have an extra inch or so between the middle 2 bumper holes so I can maybe cut one and weld it shorter but I'm not sure if there are any other dimensional changes. The way to tell if you have a Lowlight bar is that it is made from flat rather than the curved section of the later cars.
If anyone can kindly take a photo for me then I can probably tell if these ones will do but I doubt it would be possible to work it out if the bumpers are still on a car. I'm getting sooooo close to finishing it!!!
Thanks!
[frame][/frame]
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Rob
Mine are in bits at the moment, the bars freshly shot blasted and painted, the chrome polished, new bolts because most of them sheared when attempting to undo them. I took them off to improve the chrome plated and very rusty centre fill in plates. These are now abraded smooth and sprayed up in body colour and ready to go. I can happily let you know dimensions, but not until next week. Is it just the dimension between the two middle holes on the rear needed?
I also have a question - should the joining plates be fitted in front of or behind the chrome bars, seems most pictures etc show them in front?? I think I actually like them behind the chromed bars.
Colin
Mine are in bits at the moment, the bars freshly shot blasted and painted, the chrome polished, new bolts because most of them sheared when attempting to undo them. I took them off to improve the chrome plated and very rusty centre fill in plates. These are now abraded smooth and sprayed up in body colour and ready to go. I can happily let you know dimensions, but not until next week. Is it just the dimension between the two middle holes on the rear needed?
I also have a question - should the joining plates be fitted in front of or behind the chrome bars, seems most pictures etc show them in front?? I think I actually like them behind the chromed bars.
Colin
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Mine has the welded piece in the middle of the back bumper bar, do you think thats correct?[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Too many Minors so little time.....
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Thanks, guys.
The big holes in the "bumper bar" seem to be the same for Lowlight and later cars but there is the possibility that the Lowlight bars are 'flatter' between these points. Hard to be sure because my bar was already bent out of shape. The later cars also seem to be different outboard of the 2 big holes, again with a steeper curve and also an extra 1/2 inch of length to keep the same dimension between all those holes whilst still allowing for the curve. Does that make sense? I'll try to get a photo done tonight to show what I mean. In an ideal world I'd like to get an overhead photo of the Lowlight bar showing just how curved it is meant to be along its' length
David. Great pic. It looks as if someone has had the exact same problem that I'm having now! My original blade was cracked through one of the big holes anyway, a design weakness perhaps, so I had to use a later one without realising they were different. My plan for adapting a later one is almost exactly what you have on sow, albeit with the 2 halves joined end-to-end.[frame][/frame]
Here is the Lowlight parts assembled onto the later bumper bar. All the outboard holes line up well enough but the 2 middle holes that hold the cover plate on are about 1/2 to 1 inch further apart.
Colin. Any dimensions at all would be helpful. Setting the right curve will be the hardest part. Maybe a string line through the outermost bolt holes and then a dimension from the string to the rear face of the bar at each other hole?
I think the plate was meant to go on the outer face of the chrome by virtue of a small extra few mm on mine where the middle cover plate thingy would be too big to comfortable sit flush at the inboard edge if it was sat behind the chrome. I'll try and get a photo of that tonight also.
Off to the Doctors now so must rush.
Cheers
Rob
The big holes in the "bumper bar" seem to be the same for Lowlight and later cars but there is the possibility that the Lowlight bars are 'flatter' between these points. Hard to be sure because my bar was already bent out of shape. The later cars also seem to be different outboard of the 2 big holes, again with a steeper curve and also an extra 1/2 inch of length to keep the same dimension between all those holes whilst still allowing for the curve. Does that make sense? I'll try to get a photo done tonight to show what I mean. In an ideal world I'd like to get an overhead photo of the Lowlight bar showing just how curved it is meant to be along its' length
David. Great pic. It looks as if someone has had the exact same problem that I'm having now! My original blade was cracked through one of the big holes anyway, a design weakness perhaps, so I had to use a later one without realising they were different. My plan for adapting a later one is almost exactly what you have on sow, albeit with the 2 halves joined end-to-end.[frame][/frame]
Here is the Lowlight parts assembled onto the later bumper bar. All the outboard holes line up well enough but the 2 middle holes that hold the cover plate on are about 1/2 to 1 inch further apart.
Colin. Any dimensions at all would be helpful. Setting the right curve will be the hardest part. Maybe a string line through the outermost bolt holes and then a dimension from the string to the rear face of the bar at each other hole?
I think the plate was meant to go on the outer face of the chrome by virtue of a small extra few mm on mine where the middle cover plate thingy would be too big to comfortable sit flush at the inboard edge if it was sat behind the chrome. I'll try and get a photo of that tonight also.
Off to the Doctors now so must rush.
Cheers
Rob
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
The straighter one on top was the Lowlight component which may well be out of shape.
The straighter one on top was the Lowlight component which may well be out of shape.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Hopefully the top 2 pics show what I mean about the step, Colin. If the middle joiner plate was behind the bumper it wouldn't be a tidy fit on the 2 side pieces.
The other shots show the Lowlight bits on a later bar. The 2 ends fit fine but then won't fit in the middle 2 holes. Hmmmmm.
Hopefully the top 2 pics show what I mean about the step, Colin. If the middle joiner plate was behind the bumper it wouldn't be a tidy fit on the 2 side pieces.
The other shots show the Lowlight bits on a later bar. The 2 ends fit fine but then won't fit in the middle 2 holes. Hmmmmm.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
A photo from Carlo with some added lines to show, hopefully, the differences.[frame][/frame]
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
This perhaps explains why mine doesnt sit very well from the top! I had decided I wouldnt mess about with the fit until the time came for a respray, I will await your findings with great interest Rob!
The bumper and brackets were missing completely off mine when purchased, the brackets had been ground off flush with the body. A very kind member of our local club sold me this at a bargain price as he had bought a complete one with better chrome some years previous. I didnt even have to paint the valance! He also made me cardboard template of the brackets. Ive had stainless blades made to replace the chrome and its and excellent replacement although it doesnt have the gentle curve of the original it does look super and wont rust.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
The bumper and brackets were missing completely off mine when purchased, the brackets had been ground off flush with the body. A very kind member of our local club sold me this at a bargain price as he had bought a complete one with better chrome some years previous. I didnt even have to paint the valance! He also made me cardboard template of the brackets. Ive had stainless blades made to replace the chrome and its and excellent replacement although it doesnt have the gentle curve of the original it does look super and wont rust.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Too many Minors so little time.....
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Thanks, David. I'll keep you informed of what I find.
Do your bumpers sit the same distance from the body as other Lowlights? I've never seen another Lowlight up close and can't find any 'overhead' photos to show how they sit. It does seem quite a large gap between the valence and the body compared to later cars.
Do your bumpers sit the same distance from the body as other Lowlights? I've never seen another Lowlight up close and can't find any 'overhead' photos to show how they sit. It does seem quite a large gap between the valence and the body compared to later cars.
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Rob
Firstly dimensions. Distance between the two middle holes on the rear bar are 158mm measured to the edge of the hole nearest to the centre. On my front bar this is 163mm.
My rear bar has a slight curve across it and is not flat, does this make it from a later car? The bar also is held onto the car by round solid rods and I suspect is too far away from the body, the rods go through rather large holes in the body. I would like to make up brackets as should be. Can you advise the measurement of the brackets from body to bar please. David's photos will help here also.
I have now assembled both front and rear and returned them to the car, needed to go out in it yesterday.
Colin
Firstly dimensions. Distance between the two middle holes on the rear bar are 158mm measured to the edge of the hole nearest to the centre. On my front bar this is 163mm.
My rear bar has a slight curve across it and is not flat, does this make it from a later car? The bar also is held onto the car by round solid rods and I suspect is too far away from the body, the rods go through rather large holes in the body. I would like to make up brackets as should be. Can you advise the measurement of the brackets from body to bar please. David's photos will help here also.
I have now assembled both front and rear and returned them to the car, needed to go out in it yesterday.
Colin
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Oooooh. Sounds like someone has added the brackets from a later car. Do you have a photo, Colin?
My own brackets aren't back from the paintshop yet so I can't give you a dimension until they arrive. I'll post on here once I've got them.
Ta.
My own brackets aren't back from the paintshop yet so I can't give you a dimension until they arrive. I'll post on here once I've got them.
Ta.
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
MM '51 LHD sidevalve
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
£55 plus postage!!!! Crazy. I could knock one of those out in an hour.
I've finished the front end, run the engine and bled the brakes. Next job is to join the old piece of Lowlight rear bumper bar to a piece of M 1000 bumper bar that has been cut off another car, flattened and recurved to suit. Not the easiest metal to weld so I may need to TIG braze the pieces and add a strengthener to it.[frame][/frame]
I've finished the front end, run the engine and bled the brakes. Next job is to join the old piece of Lowlight rear bumper bar to a piece of M 1000 bumper bar that has been cut off another car, flattened and recurved to suit. Not the easiest metal to weld so I may need to TIG braze the pieces and add a strengthener to it.[frame][/frame]
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
It's beginning to look like the dogs b******s now Rob, that's a good idea using minor 1000 ones!
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Thanks!
The Lowlight bumper bar is a flat cross section whilst the later cars use a curved profile of spring steel to form the bar. Flattening the bar requires a hefty BFH and an anvil to get it flat enough to joint to the remnants of this Lowlight one. Due the high carbon content of spring steel it might not be possible to weld it with enough strength in which case I may have to fabricate a complete new bar and have it heat treated.
Just had another go at bleeding the brakes and a bleed nipple has pulled the thread out of the caliper. £95 for a brand new pair, so, not too happy.
The Lowlight bumper bar is a flat cross section whilst the later cars use a curved profile of spring steel to form the bar. Flattening the bar requires a hefty BFH and an anvil to get it flat enough to joint to the remnants of this Lowlight one. Due the high carbon content of spring steel it might not be possible to weld it with enough strength in which case I may have to fabricate a complete new bar and have it heat treated.
Just had another go at bleeding the brakes and a bleed nipple has pulled the thread out of the caliper. £95 for a brand new pair, so, not too happy.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Finally got round to repairing the spring steel bumper bar that the valences and chrome hang upon. I cut up a later bumper bar and reprofiled it (BFH and Anvil) and then Tig welded it together. The result is that the valences are positioned so that they remain a constant distance from the boot lid and rear wings as you can see in the pictures above. Hopefully this makes sense. The later Morris 1000 spring bar makes the valences sit at different angles so wouldn't have looked right, along with being too long.
I got lucky on Ebay and bought 2 brand new rear chrome blades, still in their BMC wrapping, for £25. Cheaper than rechroming the old ones.
Finally got round to repairing the spring steel bumper bar that the valences and chrome hang upon. I cut up a later bumper bar and reprofiled it (BFH and Anvil) and then Tig welded it together. The result is that the valences are positioned so that they remain a constant distance from the boot lid and rear wings as you can see in the pictures above. Hopefully this makes sense. The later Morris 1000 spring bar makes the valences sit at different angles so wouldn't have looked right, along with being too long.
I got lucky on Ebay and bought 2 brand new rear chrome blades, still in their BMC wrapping, for £25. Cheaper than rechroming the old ones.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Great job, and the chrome was a proper bargain
Too many Minors so little time.....
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Bargain of the century! I could probably sell the old ones for more than I paid for the new ones!
First run up the road on Thursday. Red lens fell out of the boot badge and I reversed over it. Bu66er! Made a new one from the red Lucas reflex reflector housed inside the bulbous 948 rear light lenses. Lots of them about with broken corners. I trimmed it with a Dremel, rounded off the face a bit and then polished it up. Fits quite well.
First run up the road on Thursday. Red lens fell out of the boot badge and I reversed over it. Bu66er! Made a new one from the red Lucas reflex reflector housed inside the bulbous 948 rear light lenses. Lots of them about with broken corners. I trimmed it with a Dremel, rounded off the face a bit and then polished it up. Fits quite well.
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Re: Lowlight rear bumper bits
Looking amazing Rob! Great job