Newbie, Fiat TC & Volumex HFO 501 NEW BUILD 2018

[fixwheelmad]

more images of st II head

[fixwheelmad]

new bright work for the VX engine

[fixwheelmad]

Very nice

cheers Thanks

[irmscher]

This will be an outstanding conversion when finished

[fixwheelmad]

more house keeping prior to dialling in my VX head, finally got enough shims sorted, cleaned and calibrated, now to assemble the head, need to fit the OMEX chopper disc to the drive wheel, will need to machine a pin then get balanced, getting there albeit slowly. Been nice having the workshop doors open, although still cold, makes for a difference, maybe this year will be a good one.

[fixwheelmad]

This will be an outstanding conversion when finished

Steve from the GC forum popped down Easter Friday, great to get some good feedback, aware there is still loads to do, but in the comfortable knowledge that its all doable, had loads of engine questions. As mentioned before he has the only other VX engine in a minor, and all the knowledge and experienced he's gained i need to benefit from. He came to the same conclusion will be a superb car when finished!

[irmscher]

A lot of work but worth it

[fixwheelmad]

Cables Cables everywhere and no connector to be seen.....

started sorting out the cable/electrical inventory, which include custom wiring for coms and radio/phone connection, Bratz trip meter, Omex memory, ford coil pack and all the engine sensors.
The Omex ring i bought was the wrong size, need to get another, the beta sensor and the DCOE tps need replacing, order the air/oil/water temp sensor and connector.
started trying to understand the old loom, built a short loom for the OMEX, and stated to populate the dash and all the gear into or near it.

[fixwheelmad]

sensor position indicated in blue tape, and then trial loom layouts

[fixwheelmad]

Anyone connected a Milspec connector before, seems an awfully complicated task, need to order more 24 amp and 15 amp wire as well.

one for the rear loom, terminating at the control box below the dash , the other for the engine bay. 19 way Mispec, might need a 24 or use 2 19 connectors, need some clear heat shrink and a numbering kit, possibly go for the RS labelling kit, might do a test over the next week.

[fixwheelmad]

in a bid to hide as much as possible, i need to hide the coil pack, thinking was a 5mm ally plate, to which it can be bolted, and that will be fixing to the last engine mount position, nice low and out of the way, induction side not exhaust side, in fear of it being cooked!

[geoberni]

Anyone connected a Milspec connector before, seems an awfully complicated task, need to order more 24 amp and 15 amp wire as well.

I've done many hundreds over the years, of several brands. Each have their peculiarities, and their own tooling.
I have to ask ... 'Why?'
What on earth are you connecting up with that?
If they are crimp fitting and you haven't get the exact type of crimp tool for the connector type and pin/socket size, plus the correct insert/extraction tool, you're wasting your time. (Crimp tools cost £100s)

Hopefully, they are soldered connections; from the look of the inserts, I think that's what they are. You must NEVER get any solder on the outside of the connector insert, they will almost certainly jam and very likely knacker the clip that holds it in place, requiring a replacement connector shell.

I haven't been following this topic as not my sort of thing.
What brand are the ones you have, Amphenol, Souriau, Cannon, or one of the other brands? I've seen that insert style before, but many many decades ago so can't recollect the make.

[fixwheelmad]

Little more, found all the electrical bits I’ve lost, memo to self, next build list and mark all and don’t move them!.
Started assembling car a little, need to understand the cable runs better, need to fit seat rails, new handbrake position, new steering position, need dash and control built. Did try fit on door hinges, need to finish the others then hand the doors with all new hardware. Now I’ve got more time on my hands, due to redundancy I’m going to enjoy this build again.
Got CDS on order, need to sort a lot of internal stuff over the next weeks, as they all effect each other.

[fixwheelmad]

Engine bay, front valance in, and fire wall, need to build lower electrical shelf in cabin and get a sample dash layedup. The front upper valance as seen with loads of holes and slots, to be welded up and smooth, another job on list.

[fixwheelmad]

Need to get some UJ to straighten the steering column angle, also the convertible frame was powder coated and as such is stuck together, need this for some of the setting out, especially the rest of the roll cage, going to cut and use SS bolts, will eventually rivet together with homemade ally ones.
Looking forward to what the next few months bring.

Showing two red top, cannot use these to high PSI, need silver top which are below 4psi, which is needed for the VX supercharger and dcoe.
Will be running 2 always have done, on single pole double toggle switch, up pump 1 down pump2, middle off.

[fixwheelmad]

Anyone connected a Milspec connector before, seems an awfully complicated task, need to order more 24 amp and 15 amp wire as well.

I've done many hundreds over the years, of several brands. Each have their peculiarities, and their own tooling.
I have to ask ... 'Why?'
What on earth are you connecting up with that?
If they are crimp fitting and you haven't get the exact type of crimp tool for the connector type and pin/socket size, plus the correct insert/extraction tool, you're wasting your time. (Crimp tools cost £100s)

Hopefully, they are soldered connections; from the look of the inserts, I think that's what they are. You must NEVER get any solder on the outside of the connector insert, they will almost certainly jam and very likely knacker the clip that holds it in place, requiring a replacement connector shell.

I haven't been following this topic as not my sort of thing.
What brand are the ones you have, Amphenol, Souriau, Cannon, or one of the other brands? I've seen that insert style before, but many many decades ago so can't recollect the make.

The make I’m using is Glenair, they are solder in type, will need to take a lot of care with those, still waiting for my remainder cable to start. Made the tails for all the sensors, just need to label those up...

[geoberni]

Hi
basically, tin the conductor end and then heat the end of the connector insert from the top edge, being careful not to get solder on the outside surface.

That's to check that you have got the conductor inserted enough.
Hopefully the connectors came with an insert/extract tool, or your supplier told you which one you needed.

Very much a case of 'less is better'; enough solder to get a good contact, but not so much that any leaks out, especially through the little conductor viewing hole.

inserts.JPG (57.04 KiB) Viewed 1671 times

One final tip, before inserting the inserts into the shell, make doubly sure all the relevant clamping rings, sealing rubbers etc are fed onto the cable.

It's embarrassing and a PITA to take it all apart again because you missed something.

[fixwheelmad]

Today was a good day as they say, Lucas BMC rally spec fuse rail built and fitted, might do cad drawing and get laser cut, my milling ain’t that good, started setting out obp pedal assembly, steering position and control panel position, lots in cabin need sorting. Fitted my HyKee locks to the main door handle, only taken me 25 years, yes really. Very happy with the newly chromed drilled handle, very pleased with results.

[fixwheelmad]

Interior shots, if you look at Lucas fuse images from the sixites you can see they ran them further apart, with some trimming you can run them closer together, very happy with this solution, although I want the metal work to be cnc cut, this is just a place holder. Handbrake to move back 3 inches.

[fixwheelmad]

Door images