Pickup restoration part three

[les]

Sounds good, My spring is actually over the clevis pin followed by a washer and split pin through the hole.

[davidmiles]

The new brake pedal clevis pin is issued with two holes side by side Les, one for the split pin, and one that I used for the spring arm, either way works I would guess.
With the brakes all leak free now, Ive washed down the garage floor, any new droplets of fluid will standout, and I hope, lead me to any problem Ive missed. Once it's dried off nicely on this hot bank holiday monday.
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[ASL642]

Wow! as nice empty garage - i'll be round soon!

[davidmiles]

sadly it won't be empty for long. The petrol tank has support at its leading edge, but the attachment for the rear edge against the rear chassis rail/crossmember has no fixing point, I'm missing an angle iron rail here.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the only rail I have left in storage is this piece here, Ive got an idea that this is the parcel shelf rail, maybe a trip to the Chichester / Nutbourne scrapyard is in order, thats if they've not crushed the only scrapyard morris 1000 in sussex[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

back to linkages and springs, I've reconnected the clutch linkage after having replaced the pedals, I have a number of springs like that brake pedal return spring, should I fit a clutch pedal return spring? does it have one from the clutch clevis pin below the pedal, back to the crossmember?[frame][/frame]

[les]

Yes I've seen those clevis pins, well I'm blowed, and I've never though of that being the reason!

[chrisryder]

the clutch pedal itself doesn't have a return spring. and if you fitted one on the clutch pedal where you suggest, it'll pull the pedal down, not up.

the clutch pedal is brought up to the top by a return spring fitted between the engine backplate and the loop in the end of the clutch release fork. this brings the release bearing away from the clutch cover, but also serves to pull on all the linkages bring the clutch pedal up.

[davidmiles]

Thanks Chris, I just need to screw the nut on the threaded bar to tighten that up then, no need for an extra spring. What about the tank attachment, anyone have a picture?

[chickenjohn]

Wow! as nice empty garage - i'll be round soon!

My thoughts too, LOL. could soon fill it with spares and tools.....

[les]

You can just make out the length of the angle bracket. It's 18swg each leg being 1 1/2'' wide. the front fitting is U section 7/8'' wide stretching from one chassis leg to the other.

[davidmiles]

Thanks Les, what a beautiful chassis you have there. and its interesting to see the left bias tank position.

[les]

That's a point, if you need a measurement for the offset let me know.

[pyebibby]

I thourght you had gone hush for a long time then! then i realised that you had made a 3rd chain! Getting there now! shes so pretty!

[davidmiles]

getting there steadily, bit by bit, windscreen in today, original glass. just need to fit the chrome strip.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

turning my attention to the side and headlights, Ive got a pile of front sidelights, double what I need for fitting and as spares.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

very doubtful of the useability of this one headlamp, may as well renew for a pair of halogen units.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the front side and indicator combination light covers are difficult to clean as I am unsure if you can strip this component down to get at the individual surfaces of glass/plastic.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

I'm very familiar with these lenses, the Army used these and we called them rubys, they easily unscrewed from Landrovers and APC's and were always going "diffy". The morris minor one's seem to be better secured, there is a chrome bezel around them that stops you getting at the rubber. I'll re use the rubys and order new rubber parts and bulb holders.
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[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

You can strip the front lenses down, the chrome ring slides off and the orange bit will pull out for cleaning as well.