Why is this rubbing the back of my wheel?

[Declan_Burns]

My stocks are very low. I will check with the factory tomorrow. As far as I know there are some kingpin seals over there but the fulcrum pin seals are definetly sold out. Perhaps I can convince my mate to do another production run.
Regards
Declan

[Andymoor94]

Alright, so this evening I found an hour to inspect both sides of the front, and even looked at hubs and brakes.

I've attached a few pictures of what I found.

I noticed the ball joint rubber was blown.
Both axle boots were torn and leaking.
Brakes maybe need overhaul too?

Also, NEITHER SIDE HAD RUBBER BUMP STOPS.

Edit: Added bump stops concern

[les]

I think you may have to face up to a pretty comprehensive stripdown of the suspension and steering, jack up the front and bite the bullit. You know it makes sense!

[Andymoor94]

I think you may have to face up to a pretty comprehensive stripdown of the suspension and steering, jack up the front and bite the bullit. You know it makes sense!

Aye, I think so too!

I've got new gaiters and track rod end seals coming, just hoping it's just the seals. New bushes all-round. New swivel pin and trunnions for passenger side. Would love to do the driver side too, but this is where my dried up wallet just looks at me with those eyes!

And I guess if I'm going for a brake overhaul, it'd make sense to just go discs

[simmitc]

There are arguments for disks and arguments in favour of drums; but that's a whole different topic...

[philthehill]

That top trunnion must be very old as it has the bump stop cup which has been discontinued for some considerable time.

[Andymoor94]

There are arguments for disks and arguments in favour of drums; but that's a whole different topic...

I'm glad you said that, because I just echoed a recommendation from another gent I spoke to you Facebook. I quiet like mechanical originality. Not had a problem with mine.

That top trunnion must be very old as it has the bump stop cup which has been discontinued for some considerable time.

Then I'm very happy to be changing it! I'm gonna need to do the other side next month if that's the case though.

[ManyMinors]

I wouldn't worry unduly about that top trunnion until you've checked the condition of it. I have some like that (they're actually a Wolseley 1500/Riley 1.5 variation) which are new/old stock. It isn't the age which renders these parts beyond use but the wear/lack of maintenance.
If these joints are lubricated correctly and regularly, they last many many years.

[Andymoor94]

I wouldn't worry unduly about that top trunnion until you've checked the condition of it. I have some like that (they're actually a Wolseley 1500/Riley 1.5 variation) which are new/old stock. It isn't the age which renders these parts beyond use but the wear/lack of maintenance.
If these joints are lubricated correctly and regularly, they last many many years.

Thankfully, it's on the side I'm already replacing, but given the state of other areas (not to mention it came to my with next to no oil in the gearbox), I can only replace whatever I can with new parts and ensure that I'm keeping them maintained myself.

I'd like it to last my duration

[Andymoor94]

Nearly there with the disassembly, but this ball joint isn't coming free. Any tips? Big hammer ain't doing it!

[simmitc]

Ball joint separator
Yo can get a sort of tapered Y fork that you whack in, or a hinged device with a bolt operated by a spanner or socket. Both work well, the former can wreck the rubber (not a worry for you!) and the later can cause a loud "bang" or "crack" sound as the joint separates.

[les]

I would favour this type, hitting things with a hammer not always a good idea. Although even this tool can benefit from a gentle tap after tension is applied by the screw. Looks like the internals are trying to escape from that track rod end.

C6E99A45-B260-4690-8280-43CDB3967951.jpeg (98.39 KiB) Viewed 1379 times

[jagnut66]

I have one of those that Les has posted a picture of and can second his recommendation, it will make light work of your track rod arms, always worth having one in your tool kit.
Some links for you below.
Best wishes,
Mike.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... xB5&adurl=

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... nAQ&adurl=

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... HAQ&adurl=

[kennatt]

lost count of the n umber of track rod ends I have removed over the years,on cars vans and commercials,I don't own a specialised removal tool except for TWO HAMMERS turn the steering until you can hold the heaviest hammer on one side of the arm in line with the taper of the rod end and hit the opposite side with the other . after removing the nut completely whilst the taper is still holding the tre.If you release the taper with the nut still on you then can't unscrew it any further.Never known one not to release some are a bit more stubborn,and take three or four hard hits.,if you are reusing the tre this method,can't damage the rubber boot,the tools can.The only thing you may damage is your hand if you miss aim.The tools do work but way back in the mists of time the recognised ways was the twin hammer knock perhaps I'm too set in may ways . Good luck

[Myrtles Man]

As, in fact, demonstrated several times on 'Wheeler Dealers' by Edd China.

[simmitc]

I'm with Les and Mike on this, I always use the type illustrated, and have not lost any rubber yet. Using a hammer to hit a pin without a nut on it will almost certainly damage the thread. If not reusing the components then you can also use heat. The great thing is that all opinions are valid, all you have to do is to decide which to accept

[Andymoor94]

I'm with Les and Mike on this, I always use the type illustrated, and have not lost any rubber yet. Using a hammer to hit a pin without a nut on it will almost certainly damage the thread. If not reusing the components then you can also use heat. The great thing is that all opinions are valid, all you have to do is to decide which to accept

I've had a few good ideas and it seems that hammering the sides of the arm itself, not the joint, is a very widely used and well known method of extracting a ball joint. My concern is that if it's the original rod end, then it will likely call for the extractor tool. I'll try gentle persuasion until the tool arrives!

Edit: Didn't realise how cheap the tool was. Changed final line

[kennatt]

You don't hit the PIN you hold the heavier hammer up against the side of the arm inline with the tapered pin,the arm has an opposite taper so that the pin is driven into the arm by the nut and held fast.when you then hit the arm on the opposite side the shock causes the two tapers to spring apart ,due to the opposite tapers, If you take any car into an older established garage with proper mechanics not young new part fitters,I just about guarantee that the guy will use the hammers,takes half the time he would have both off and probably one back on before the he could fit the tool, screw it on and then maybe have to still hit it . You can sometimes depending on the car(if the angle is right) to just use one hammer,saves time finding two : when I was working in the family garage about 60 years ago , the old mechanic who was my tutor would have had my guts,after falling about laughing, if I had suggested I needed a tool to split TRE and ball joints ,but well set in my ways. Good luck with the tool.

[Andymoor94]

You don't hit the PIN you hold the heavier hammer up against the side of the arm inline with the tapered pin,the arm has an opposite taper so that the pin is driven into the arm by the nut and held fast.when you then hit the arm on the opposite side the shock causes the two tapers to spring apart ,due to the opposite tapers, If you take any car into an older established garage with proper mechanics not young new part fitters,I just about guarantee that the guy will use the hammers,takes half the time he would have both off and probably one back on before the he could fit the tool, screw it on and then maybe have to still hit it . You can sometimes depending on the car(if the angle is right) to just use one hammer,saves time finding two : when I was working in the family garage about 60 years ago , the old mechanic who was my tutor would have had my guts,after falling about laughing, if I had suggested I needed a tool to split TRE and ball joints ,but well set in my ways. Good luck with the tool.

I've got a big f**k off steel mallet in my bag for tonight

[philthehill]

If you are going to use a big ?????????? hammer best to use two big ?????????? hammers as the back hammer needs to absorb the shock. If you hit the steering arm without the back up hammer being in place you increase the chance of bending the steering arm.

Back in the day you could overhaul track rod ends with service parts - today you just throw it in the scrap bin.