Traveller engine cuts out when hot

[Guernsey_Traveller]

I'm new to Morris Minor ownership and have never maintained a classic car before, so please be patient!

The problem is that the engine of my 1959 Traveller cuts out when it has warmed up. It runs perfectly up to that point when it chugs for a minute or so before cutting out. Then once it has cooled down it will fire back up a dream.

I have flushed the radiator until the water ran clear prior to which the top was hotter than the bottom, this hasn't made any difference.

Does anyone have any ideas what I could try?

[Willie]

The top of the radiator should be hotter than the bottom since the cooled water is at the bottom. If your engine only stops when hot if it is ticking over
then it is probably too rich and is choking to a standstill. If it stops while you
are actually driving along that would be another matter. The simplest way to check is to identify the mixture control nut which is underneath the piston chamber down the centre line of the carb' and turn it UPwards by two flats,
(2 flats not complete turns)! this should make the tickover when hot more even if the trouble is an over rich mixture. If that doesn't help then let us know.

[Guernsey_Traveller]

Thanks for the reply, I'll certainly check that, although it is when I'm driving along that it cuts out-usually after about 10-15 mins. After a nice rest she starts again, so I've no idea what the problem is!

[JustinMinor1000]

Thanks for the reply, I'll certainly check that, although it is when I'm driving along that it cuts out-usually after about 10-15 mins. After a nice rest she starts again, so I've no idea what the problem is!

But if it simply "idles" it will not cut out ?

If it idles fine but stops after a while on a run .. is it possible that the fuel pump has low pressure? Pod's old pump used to do that under heavy acceleration ..


take a Jam jar with you ..

When it stops.

Turn off the ignition.

remove the fuel line from the carb and put it in the jar ..

turn the ignition back on for ten seconds ..

if there is no fuel in the jar then you have a fuel pump problem.

[bmcecosse]

Possibly vacuum in the fuel tank - take the cap off next time it stops like this. is there an in-rush of air ? Does the fuel pump start ticking away frantically ?

[Onne]

What incredible sort of filler cap would cause a vacuum in a Minor fuel tank? I don't see that happening to my setup. Ever!

Modern cars, different story

[Judge]

If the fuel pump is ticking OK, feel the coil after the engine stops. If it's getting hot it could be breaking down.

[Willie]

ONNE, any makeshift or faulty fuel filler cap will create a vacuum in the system if the breather hole is blocked or non existent. The only reliable way
to check the coil is to substitute it when the fault occurs. It is a sensible spare
to carry in the car anyway but, if you buy one, make sure it is the correct
type, not a 'ballast' type.

[johnm]

If a lockable petrol cap is fitted, then it may be the culprit, we have had this problem with our traveller.

Otherwise a coil or condenser breaking down would be a possibility or a failing fuel pump.

[Onne]

I didn't know that... Well, I still can't see it happening wiith my setup, but that si more to do with mine than anyone elses

[Sparky]

Had a similar problem some time ago, the spade connectors on the coil were loose causing coil to overheat and come to a spluttering halt...... engine re-starting ok after cooling down. Tightened up connections and bingo!!

[bmcecosse]

Condenser sometimes works 'just' when cold, and packs-up when hot. New one is only pennies.

[rio678]

Coils do get quite hot anyway, i had a problem like that and it turned out to be the condensor, they are not so good as they use to be!

[Nigel2]

Don't forget the dreaded 'pattern parts' rotor arm breaking down when hot. ]/url][/img][/url]

Could resist putting th picture up again!
Nigel

[Willie]

Guernsey.............You have seen the above sensible suggestions but if you
are going to try new rotor arm,condensor,points, coil etc then only change
one thing at a time or you will never know which part was faulty.

[sidsmith]

Hi, I had a similar problem to yours, I could drive for about 2 mile and then the car would cut out and stop. I cleaned the petrol pump, cleaned the carb and it didn't make any difference. In the end I changed my points and plugs and haven't had a problem since, but which was was at fault I don't know but at least I don't get breaking down now.
Mungo '56 Splitty

[rayofleamington]

One extra suggerstion to add to the muddy waters.... :
If the carb throttle slide is sticking it will cause the engine to stall at idle (eg when you get to traffic lights or a roundabout - it will be far too rich to tickover). This one is easier to spot as it will still run if you keep your foot on the gas.

can't think of anything else just yet but the list so far covers nearly all of the likely candidates.

One I saw in Minor Matters When the car got hot the radiator leaked a jet of water onto the electrics which shorted out causing a stall. It took them ages to find it!

[Guernsey_Traveller]

Thanks to everyone for your ideas, I've eliminated some possibilities but otherwise no closer to identifying the problem.

The petrol pump is fine.

The electrics seem fine.

The plugs and points are new.

The rotor arm is clean.

The coil does seem to be quite hot although I don't know how hot a well functioning one would be. I think I'll order a replacement and try that next.

Can I ask John M why a lockable fuel cap might cause a problem? (By the way there was no partial vacuum when I removed the cap).

Would really like to get her running for the summer, any other suggestions gratefully received!

[Willie]

Another point to check re the coil (which should get reasonably hot in use) is if the two terminals on the coil are held on by a nut or a rivet. The nuts can
obviously be easily tightened but I have had the rivet type work loose before
which caused intermittent engine failure until I re tightened it with hammer and punch.