minor emergency - please help

Post by **doobry** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 11:53 pm

Just try undoing the other end of the pipe instead - if that works then it doesn't matter if the pipe rotates at the cylinder end as it will be free to do so. Re-using the steel pipes isn't the best idea anyway as the fittings will be pretty old and likely to be a bit messed up - I do re-use them if they seem ok but when the fittings have been overtightened this often makes for a lot of swearing when trying to get them to go back in.

The steel pipes you're having trouble with are most likely the originals (replacements are normally not steel) therefore they have been fitted to countless new cylinders over the decades and the end of the fittings will be a mess (a bad idea to re-use them)
If your Mechanic guy hasn't got the right fittings, get the pipe made somewhere that has them or at least get new fittings (most decent motor factors will have them)
Best option is to just get a new pipe mailed from Bull Motif or ESM together with the new cylinder. You should replace the 2 copper washers for the banjo bolt at the same time AND the bleed nipple - as this can save a whole heap of grief.

Post by **Relfy** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 8:35 pm

Hooray!

Thanks for all the help everyone. I now have completely working brakes. Drove round the block a couple of times and was rewarded by a heron flying over me!
I think I'll probably need to bleed them again tomorrow, but no leaks, all cylinders working and new pipes, and managed to scare my nimby landlord off for the day by washing my tools in the kitchen sink. Product!

Post by **tickman** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:11 pm

Relfy wrote:washing my tools in the kitchen sink.

is that not what kitchen sinks are for

Post by **Relfy** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:19 pm

That's what I said... he didn't seem to take kindly to it.

But then, this is the guy who minutes before had come outside to me (struggling to get that cylinder past the hub) and said "Yugh! Look how dirty your hands are!!! Do you want me to bring you some soapy water?"

Lalala. I'll have my own kitchen sink one day.

Post by **Relfy** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:06 pm

Hmmm..... I definitely have working brakes now and that's definitely a good thing, but there's still something that's worrying me...

When I press the brake pedal it seems to sort of 'step' down.. so I press it so far and it meets some resistance, and then it kind of bumps past that, until further down it meets proper resistance and the brakes start working. Does anyone know what I mean? If so, any ideas as to what is going on?

Post by **Packedup** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:28 pm

Could it be the first resistance is the springs, then as you stretch those you start finally pressing the shoes into contact?

That's the theory I've used in the past when trying not to worry about impending brake failure and a metal/ scenery incident ;)

Post by **alex_holden** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:12 pm

Maybe some of the wheel cylinders are sticking a bit? (just a wild guess)

Post by **Relfy** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 1:03 pm

Phew. nobody saying "Oh thats a disaster and you must change everything again" ... I'll try not to worry then... that's 3 cylinders and the master in just a couple of months! I'm getting paranoid.

Post by **eastona** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 5:57 pm

Are you sure they're all adjusted properly so yo get min pedal travel, that should help?

Andrew

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 8:57 pm

Crank them up so they are rubbing - how's the pedal now ?

Post by **Relfy** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:40 pm

Yeah, they're over-adjusted if anything - I've never been half-hearted with that.

Post by **minor_hickup** » Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:52 pm

Relfy I seem to get that, it comes and goes, no matter how well the brakes are adjusted, even the handbrake with a resevoir full of fluid there still seems to be a step down. My m/c is a pattern one and i wonder if thats it, is yours a genuine lockheed or a pattern part?

Post by **Relfy** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:48 pm

Its genuine lockheed, and it seems to be slightly worse to start with and then gets better into the drive... comforting to know you get it too though.

Post by **Packedup** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 8:01 pm

Relfy wrote:Yeah, they're over-adjusted if anything - I've never been half-hearted with that.

I did that on a Mini once. Had a beautifully firm high pedal. Car stopped brilliantly on the town roads leading to the A road I was headed for.

When I came to a big island on the A road, I found the brakes were....

... Not there!

I'd over-adjusted, and the heat from binding at 70ish caused complete and utter fade, absolutely no stopping power at all. A mix of engine braking, excellent Mini roadholding, luck and a dash of driver skill (OK, so I got very lucky) saw me round the island intact at silly speed where I could then come to a halt on an uphill bit of road.

So the moral of the tale is a bit more pedal travel is probably a safer way to go than a bit of binding!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 9:06 pm

The binding brakes was intended only as a test to establish if the pedal then became firm!! Not the way to run the car. My brakes with big Wolseley drums on the front are absolutely 'right there' - virtually no pedal movement and excellent never-been-known-to-fade braking.

Post by **carlhiley** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 11:51 pm

Hello all
Reacently bled my brakes after having a soft peddle , no joy with one man kit

so loosend rear adjusters then bled with help from wife, tightend up adjusters so wheel would not turn, then clicked back one notch. Result great brakes

. Must add that reading the message board was a big help thanks.

otch. Result great brakes

.