Oil for shock absorbers

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DaveC
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Oil for shock absorbers

Postby DaveC » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:38 am

hi Folks

Can anyone tell me what oil I should use to top up the shock absorbers please? I can only find reference to 'Armstrong Shock Absorber Oil' in my manual, I assume this is not available anymore?

Dave

57traveller
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Postby 57traveller » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:44 am

Hydraulic jack oil or motor cycle fork oil should be fine.

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:06 am

The main thing is to drain out all the horrible ancient oil - which has been broken down by years of hard labour squeezing through small orifices. I use 20W50 in the dampers and this gives far better damping and I have never had any problems - but do check the damper mounting bolts are nice and tight anyway. Others will tell you to only use the 'correct' oil.
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Axolotl
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Postby Axolotl » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:29 am

I bought some "Shock absorber top up oil" from Bull Motif. It comes in unbranded white plastic bottles and could be anything.

The one ESM sell as shock absorber oil is actually Comma jack oil for hydraulic jacks. You can get that in most motor factors or car accessory places.

Holden Classics sell two grades of Penrite shock oil, that specifically says it is suitable for lever arm type shock absobers.

I guess a search on "Penrite" or "Comma" would turn up alternative suppliers.
Cheers, Axolotl.

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Kevin
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Postby Kevin » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:43 am

This should help
http://www.commaoil.com/
Cheers

Kevin
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DaveC
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Postby DaveC » Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:16 pm

Thanks for the advice all. I got some Jack Oil (SAE 10) from the motor shop round the corner, and will drain and refill both units with that this weekend :) .
Cheers
Dave

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:39 pm

Be careful not to lose the little springs and packing washers that come out with the valves which you will remove to drain the units - place a dish under to catch everything. then bounce the car to work out the old fluid - and flush some new stuff through too before refitting the valves and filling up. Lots more bouncing then to work all the air out - and check again in a week's time for final topping up.
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