Clutch Adjustment

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jackkelleher
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Clutch Adjustment

Post by jackkelleher »

There was about three inches' play in the clutch pedal, so I'm definitely changing that! I know to turn the little nuts on the arm underneath the car, but which way? I mightily confused meself with that one... :roll:
Is rust infectious? My hands are turning red...
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Just try it Jackl - it will soon be obvious which way shortens the rod. Turning the nut clockwise as you look on the end will do the trick. But don't expect this to solve the 'snatching' problem. I am of course assuming you are used to driving a stick-shift car ?
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jackkelleher
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Post by jackkelleher »

It was the shortening the rod bit that was concerning me... You see, there is no way to shorten it. The end of the thread has been reached and there is still 3" of play. That's why I thought I must be doing something wrong... :o
And yes, I am- I drove the car daily before I started work on it, silly me...
I'm not hoping for too many results, just a more responsive clutch on the whole! The snatching I will deal with separately... As long as I can find out exactly what's wrong.
Is rust infectious? My hands are turning red...
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MoggyTech
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Post by MoggyTech »

If the adjuster nut is all the way UP the thread e.g. towards the rear of the car, and there is 3" of clutch pedal freeplay, it will be one of the following.

1: Clutch relay shaft chassis rail mounting bush collapsed
2: Very worn clutch release bearing carbon thrust ring
3: Broken clutch centre plate spring or springs.

Release bearing can be inspected through the rubber bung hole in the bellhousing, and the pressure plate to some degree. Relay shaft bush can be inspected from under car.
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jackkelleher
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Post by jackkelleher »

Could any of the above be causing the "snatching"?
Incidentally, a rather more serious problem has come up, which will be going under "electrical" and renders the clutch useless, since it prevents the car even starting... :evil:
Is rust infectious? My hands are turning red...
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MoggyTech
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Post by MoggyTech »

Could any of the above be causing the "snatching"?
Release bearing can cause some judder if worn right down to the cup that holds the carbon ring. Broken pressure plate does cause severe snatching.
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

But surely you had the engine out of the car - and so you must be aware of the condition of the carbon thrust ? Was it ok at that time ? It doe rather sound as though you may have damaged the pressure assembly when refitting the engine. That's certainly a LOT of free play.
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jackkelleher
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Post by jackkelleher »

I did have the engine out, and at the time everything looked fine! I was about to put the engine in and noticed some resistance, I couldn't get it in without forcing so didn't try, a man came round to pick up my brother's car for some work and he said "it's easy" and simply knocked the supports out of the way- he said those were the cause of resistance- and rammed the engine into place. Seemed a bit violent to me at the time- could that be the cause?
Sounds like I'll be having the engine out again... And this time I'll fit it MYSELF! :-?
That's certainly a LOT of free play
I thought it seems a bit excessive, yes...
Is rust infectious? My hands are turning red...
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

It was same engine out - and same one back in - yes? Could be he has damaged the pressure assembly or possibly the plate if it was out of line. Should always be gently pushed back onto the gbox while slowly turning the engine over by hand to let the parts self centre.
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jackkelleher
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Post by jackkelleher »

Same engine, yes-
I'm getting a proper engine hoist (along with a few other things that will actually make my garage respectable!) some time in the next week, so I'll bring the engine out and have a shufti...
Is rust infectious? My hands are turning red...
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