Rebuilding the engine...a couple of queries!

Post by **youngun** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:26 pm

Well, with the finer weather we've been having im hoping to get the engine painted in the next 2 weeks. Which means its rebuild time after that.
So, is there any particular orders i should know about? Also, im fitting an MG metro cam...should i bother with new cam bearings? At the moment im sticking with the standard head until i can find an engineering company to sink the valves in the 12g940 head. But the Howley inlet manifold and HIF38 will be going on.
Oh, and has anyone got an alloy rocker cover up for grabs?

Thanks,
YG

Post by **jackkelleher** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 2:59 am

What engine do you have in the car?
Order for undoing parts, well, if it's a complete rebuild then valves, head, timing chain+wheels, camshaft, sump, pistons; that's about as far as you can go with the engine in the car, if you remove it then the various bearings, followed by the crank. The clutch, flywheel, then backplate... Front plate comes off when you get the engine out, or any time thereafter.
That's just a rough order! There are more exact ones for which order to undo bolts in, etc, but someone else will have to provide those... The order I put is really just for practicality.
If I made some glaring mistake I'm sure I'll be corrected

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 8:44 am

Your cam bearings will be fine unless the engine has been run totally dry of oil and seized! They are v difficult to change, and may need reaming to size. Basically - install the carnkshaft and make sure it spins easily in the mains, then fit pistons one by one, again checking for easy spinning, then camshaft and oil pump with timing chain (duplex if possible) and then hang all the other bits on the engine. It really only takes a pillar drill and a 45 degree countersink to do the exhaust valve seats. No centering up - just let it self centre on the seat and at slow speed allow it to cut down on the seat. 10 minutes easily does all 4.

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:22 am

until i can find an engineering company to sink the valves in the 12g940 head

See if you can find a good local mini specialist who can do the work for you, this may help a little.
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/in ... opic=23499

Shouldnt you do the rebuild first and then paint the engine.
Also if you are replacing the cam fit new followers as followers tend to wear to the cam they are used on and they are regaded as a service item if doing an overhaul the same applies to the oil pump which you are probably going to have to change anyway as the pump drive is going to be different on a Metro engine compared to a Moggie one. Mini spares do all types for around £15.

Post by **youngun** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 2:24 pm

"Shouldnt you do the rebuild first and then paint the engine". Having learnt from experience i always paint engine parts induvidually then re-assemble them, it makes for a better looking finish and if you want to remove parts at a later date you dont ruin your nice paint finish!
As for the oil pump , BMCecosse was kind enough to sell me the correct one.
Regarding the cam, ive had a quick look in my block and there only appears to be one bearing shell in there....i thought there was supposed to be 3?

Post by **youngun** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 2:25 pm

bmcecosse wrote:It really only takes a pillar drill and a 45 degree countersink to do the exhaust valve seats. No centering up - just let it self centre on the seat and at slow speed allow it to cut down on the seat. 10 minutes easily does all 4.

Well ive got the pillar drill, but i would love to be englightened on where i can get a metal countersink bit big enough!

Post by **jackkelleher** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 3:38 pm

That's why I asked what engine you have... If I'm remembering correctly, the cam runs straight through the block bar the front on the 1098. Certainly on one of the two types of engine, at least.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:11 pm

Yes - on the 948 engine there is only the one front white-metal bearing, 3 on 1098 engine. But it will be fine with the MG cam - just don't go fitting extra strong /double valve springs ! The 1098 block can be used with the 948 crank, and Mini 998 pistons (and rods) - to give a nice strong 998 engine ! Dunno about the 45 c/sink - we just happened to have one at work that was big enough!

Post by **youngun** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:44 pm

jackkelleher wrote:That's why I asked what engine you have... If I'm remembering correctly, the cam runs straight through the block bar the front on the 1098. Certainly on one of the two types of engine, at least.

Blimey sorry, mines a 948!

Post by **jackkelleher** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 3:12 am

There we are, I had it switched!

But yes, that's normal.

Post by **Alec** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:21 am

Hello YG,

you need to go to a good engineering merchant to buy a large countersink drill.

However, at the risk of bringing up an old argument, I would personally have the block machined to give the necessary clearance for the valves.

Alec

Post by **youngun** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 4:23 pm

Not so easy on my block alec, its got liners in it for some reason!

Post by **Alec** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 5:47 pm

Hello YG,

it should make no difference.

Alec

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 6:34 pm

I have done the block pockets myself in the past - using just mounted points in a hand held leccy drill. The head job is SO much easier - and leaves the block untouched of course. Cheap head, and sunk valves - job done. Rest of engine left as normal. If you buy a drill - be sure the cutting edges are at 45 degrees! Ours was a muli-bladed countersink and worked well. Of course a grind stone could also be used - cut to 45 degrees of course. The countersink was just so easy!