Brake overhaul

[Dominic]

Hi folks
I am about to start work on replacing the master cylinder, as the internal seals are beginning to leak, allowing the pedal to very gradually sink towards the floor. The pipes, although old steel ones (?) have been regularly greased externally and are in reasonable condition. Likewise, the slave cylinders in the hubs are all working ok, with no apparent problems. Flexible rubber pipes look ok, no splits, but must be 6 or 7 years old at least.

What is the general concensus - replace the lot thus pre-empting problems down the line, or just replace the master cyl? Also, are there any other items likely to need replacing at the same time?

Thanks in advance for your advice

Dom

[Packedup]

By the time you've faffed around trying to get the old pipes off the old master, you'll be wanting to put new ones on anyway - Chances are the old ones will be seized and the whole pipe will twist when you undo the unions. I don't know about saloons, but when fitting a new master (a week after new pipes, having assumed the old master would be OK..) on the pickup it was much easier to undo the pipe to the rear as well so it and the master could be wiggled around enough to get a spanner in there.

[PSL184]

Everyone will probably have there own opinions on this but I just changed my M/C and left everything else as it was. I work on the old adage that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" There isn't anything else you can change thats made easier by having the M/C out so just go for the cheapest option....

[MoggyTech]

Three options

1: Leave the steel pipes which can rust
2: Replace all with Kunifer
3: Replace all with PROPER copper to BS 2871 Tp2 spec.

The pipe sets from the main parts suppliers are NOT Kunifer, they are Copper. Copper is fine provided it is clipped firmly every 300mm along it's length. If copper vibrates it can work harden and snap at the flare.

Kunifer is £24 for 10 meters, Copper (Saville) is £6 for 10 metres.

For DIY use copper is easy to form into double flare using a £15 flaring tool from the likes of Draper. To make flares on Kunifer, you really need a decent tool from Sikes Pickevant , about £140 last time I checked.

[jaekl]

A little tip about master cylinders. There is no need to remove the rear brake line from the banjo bolt. Only loosen it enough so that the brake line can rotate within the fitting. After removing the front line, undo the banjo bolt. It is alot easier to remove and start this bolt than fiddling with the brake line fitting. The tubing usually flares out so that in gets stuck in the internal threads of the banjo fitting. Just make sure both copper washers are properly seated upon reassembly.

[bigginger]

Or remove the rear union (at the back wheel end) so the whole lot can be moved

[bmcecosse]

My Draper flaring kit works fine on Kunifer - but the instructions must be ignored and then just use common sense. I would never use copper - having had a copper pipe come away in my hand when checking around under the car pre-MOT.