I,ve recently removed my engine and gearbox and thought while I've got the floor panel out I'd remove and overhaul the brake master cylinder. The manual tells me I've got to remove the torsion bar on that side of the car. Is this really necessary. Thanks, Terry
No, not at all. There are various methods of moving the torsion bar out of the way without removal. Use the search facility on here to find loads of threads on the subject and loads of personnal preferences for how to do it
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Compare the Minors - Simples !! http://mog.myfreeforum.org/index.php
Just remember the bolts are that way round for a reason. If the nuts fall off or threads fail then the torsion bar stops the bolt falling out
People sometimes fit the bolt the other way round on refitting and that is their choice but personally I'd say at least make use you use a new lock nut / thread lock if you do so.
Onne van der S. MMOCno 60520 Moderator
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
Many cars will have the bolts turned round already - why on earth would they unscrew? They are under very little force for their size - and that force is not in any way trying to make them unscrew! The bolts must not rub the torsion bar - mine are a good way away from the bar. Not sure if the bolts have perhaps been shortened slightly be whoever did this very useful mod! Others use wood blocks and steel levers to bend the T bar out of the way - nothing wrong with that although may require 3 hands! Overhauling master cylinder is often not a success - the unused part of the bore may be rust pitted - and can damage new seals so they leak shortly afterwards. I suggest leave well alone if it's working - or fit a complete new master cylinder if you have doubts about the one in your car.
[quote="bmcecosse"]- why on earth would they unscrew? ] always thought about, this how can they,I think it is a myth,morris fitted the master BEFORE the torsion bar and didn't think about anyone removing the cylinder for service
I turned the bolts around 25 years ago and they are still there, they don't touch the torsion bar (I may have put a washer behind the head) and the nuts have not dropped off. QED
Why are they installed the other way originally and why are the bolt heads thinner than the nuts? Also why do you often see a groove in the offside bar on some minors at that point? Is it such a big deal to do it right?
As I said in my previous entry. If you put a washer behind the bolt head then the other end of the bolt will not touch the torsion bar.
It was purely convenience that they were assembled that way round.
Master cylinder bolts in, nuts on, torsion bar on. Job done!
I figure that if it was just chance that way then it would be a "normal" head on the bolt....
My way of removing the bolts by the way was to get a bit in inch steel box and jack it hard up against the chassis leg, then use a G clamp or two to pull the torsion bar down.
To answer the question why the head is so thin, I would say the designers were concerned that it would be possible for the torsion bar to hit the bolts. Some bars may be closer to the chassis leg and maybe they thought the bars would bow. It must have been late in the design when it was discovered. Otherwise they could have moved the bolts so they were not inline with the bar.
Bolt heads are always thinner than nuts ! But it's very likely the heads are extra thin to clear the bar. Any bars with 'grooves' in them are weakened!
To answer the question why the head is so thin, I would say the designers were concerned that it would be possible for the torsion bar to hit the bolts.
I agree, you are also right about the bars bowing, putting the bolts in the other way is wrong for several reasons, it's a matter of choice of course, but you can't defend the indefensible!
