Water leak. Best method to fix it is.....

[littleblackflash]

My water pump by-pass hose has sprung a little pin hole leak, but it's enough to squirt out and cover the wing mirror. So what is the best way of replacing it?

A) Wiggle a new one in place.
B) Remove the head
C) Remove the water pump

Does anyone know where I can get a black silicone hose to use but still look original?


2nd Point.
I would like to add a temp sensor to the car because I already have the gauge. I can't fit it into the head because it already has a blanking plug which I can't get out. Do I...

A) Drill it out and risk scrapping a good lead free head.
B) Put the sensor in the Thermostat housing. (Anyone know where I can get one from. Mini Cooper?)

[RobThomas]

Personally, I'd pull the pump. Those concertina pipes are not the most reliable option and you may find that the pump itself is either knackered already or corroded on the stub piece, in which case you'll need to replace the pump anyway. For the cost of a new pump (£20) it is probably worth doing this all in one go and keeping the old pump as a spare.

Do you have the electric sender unit or the capilliary one that needs the spacer?

[littleblackflash]

The gauge is electric and I have the normal sensor that goes in the head.

Ref. Changing the pump = Good idea and added to my part list.

[MarkyB]

Get a flank drive socket or an impact socket that is an exact fit on the blanking plug, put a breaker bar on it and a length of scaffold pipe or similar, then have at it!

Give me a lever long enough lever and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
Archimedes said that.

[polo2k]

hows about this for a new idea:
ive had a look on ebay and i cant see anythIng suitable but im sure someone like SFS performance could make it.

What about a t piece connected so that the flow from the pump to the head goes across the top of the T and then the sensor could fit into the bottom of the T.
the sensor coud exit on the passenger side for a stealthy install

[bmcecosse]

As above - the blanking plug WILL come out. certainly don't drill anything...... And take the water pump off and use a good solid piece of rubber tubing - it will last for 20+ years!

[littleblackflash]

I can't get the blanking plug out.

When the head was off, I used an impact hammer without success. I tried heating it, without success. Now the slot in the plug is starting to round off.
A long breaker bar probably won't work because the slot is starting to round too much.

If I drill it out and re-tap the thread, what size thread do I need?



I like the idea of adding the temp sensor in the by-pass pipe. But I don't want to start making bits or reinvent the wheel.

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

My Dad used a minor bottom hose trimmed to the length of the top hose with the sensor fitted in the place were the heater return pipe would have been. I hope that makes some sense..... I will take a picture if your interested.

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I did that too on my 948 engine - it works, as long as it's not an electric sensor! Plug with slot...... hmmmm .... not the standard blanking plug then, which has a large hex head. A picture would help!

[alex_holden]

I think it would give a less useful reading because it's after the thermostat.

[Declan_Burns]

Yes - I did that too on my 948 engine - it works, as long as it's not an electric sensor! Plug with slot...... hmmmm .... not the standard blanking plug then, which has a large hex head. A picture would help!

Surely you could connect an extra wire to the bodywork for the electric sensor.
Regards
Declan

[littleblackflash]

ok, I don't want to move the sensor anywhere new. I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

If I drill out the plug and retapp the hole, what size thread is it?

I've seen a mini cooper thermostat housing with the sensor under the stat (giving head temp). But it also has an extra outlet which will need to be blanked off.

[xpress]

i have to replace the water pump myself, may as well pull the blanking bolt out and change the bypass hose and any old clips at the same time. i have a blue silicon by pass hose ready to go on, slightly corrugated, seems much stronger.

just had an idea. file the flats back onto the blanking bolt, until you get a good fit on the next socket down and then have at it with a big breaker bar and scaffold pipe?

much more fun!

[littleblackflash]

just had an idea. file the flats back onto the blanking bolt, until you get a good fit on the next socket down and then have at it with a big breaker bar and scaffold pipe?

much more fun!

Nice idea, but it's flush on the head.

When the head was last off, I tried and impact hammer with alot of heat and I still couldn't get it out. The car lives at my Mothers house so I'll check it at the weekend. Someone at work suggested welding a nut onto it. The heat should shock it loose and I could then get a socket on it. Knowing my luck it's brass.

[alex_holden]

Nice idea, but it's flush on the head.

When the head was last off, I tried and impact hammer with alot of heat and I still couldn't get it out. The car lives at my Mothers house so I'll check it at the weekend. Someone at work suggested welding a nut onto it. The heat should shock it loose and I could then get a socket on it. Knowing my luck it's brass.

It sounds like the head has sheared off. Welding a nut on is a good idea if steel (it probably is). If it's brass then I'd carefully drill it out and pick out the remains of the threads.

[bmcecosse]

I suspect what you have there is the remains of a temperature sensor.....certainly NOT the original blanking plug.

[Roni]

Just as a bit of additional information, I had a blanking plug in a head that was slotted and fitted flush. From memory it was steel. I cant remember exactly but it was 5/8".

[bmcecosse]

Ahhh - This 'blanking plug' - isn't fitted where the by-pass hose should be - is it ??

[Roni]

It was fitted where the temp sensor should go on the side of the head.