If you're removing gearbox with engine in situ, then the engine needs to be lowered at the rear.
Officially you should remove the top hose to avoid damaging it (stretching)
If you also remove the rear heater take off from the head, the engine has more room to move at the rear, which can save time for re-fitting the box.
I'm sure there'll be a few along to say take it out complete with the engine (I usually don't)
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
you don't realy need to remove the engine,if you take off the engine mounts,AND the mounting towers,the engine can be disconnected from the gearbox pulled forwards and spun round inside the engine bay to do the clutch,Just use a trolly jack under it.No need to lift it right out.But many will say lift the engine and box out as one unit,But you need lifting gear for that.
My advice - don't touch the gearbox - it's a horrible job. Either do as suggested above by moving the engine forward and twisting it round - or - just take the engine out. And yes - both require the radiator to be removed - it's only 4 screws!! Either of these is MUCH easier than fighting under the car with the gearbox... If you are worrying about draining the radiator - are you comfortable with tackling on the clutch ???
bmcecosse wrote:If you are worrying about draining the radiator - are you comfortable with tackling on the clutch ???
I'm not worried about draining the radiator, only VERY lazy
I've followed workshop manuals in the past, only to realize afterwards that certain steps are completely unnecessary - and as I haven't had a car in the past where it was necessary to drain the radiator, I just thought I'd ask.
Excellent -well, it's hard to judge folks competence from a post on the forum. We are always here to help! Without a doubt I would simply slide the engine forward to do the clutch - either balanced on a trolley jack - or on a solid pile of good stable timber under the sump. Support the gearbox by tying a stout rope around the bellhousing and to something under the bonnet (probably the battery securing clamp).....so you can roll the car back and forwards as necessary when re-aligning the clutch back onto the first motion shaft. Don't hesitate to come back for any further advice...
I mean - it is a ghastly job (and not a little dangerous) working under the car - undoing the prop shaft, draining the gearbox oil. Undoing the crossmember bolts - some of which will likely break free from the captive nuts....undoing the clutch mechanism and probably dropping/losing some of the bits....then struggling with the weight of the box in very limited clearance (unless you have a hydraulic ramp of course..) twisting it to try to clear the steering rack..... Putting it back in is even more difficult - all the while trying NOT to allow the first motion shaft to touch the fragile clutch release pad/springs...... Trust me -it's a horrible job!!
And perhaps have the car fall on you.....I shudder when I think back to the time I did change the clutch by dropping the 'box - some 45 years ago now - and it took me AGES even with much cursing... Never ever again!
Thanks everybody for your positive support! I feel much better now about my clutch replacement.....
As I've already had my my fair share of lying on cold floor (or cold gravel in my case - see picture), I've asked a friend if I can use his car lift, so this should be quite comfortable.
Another question to the procedure, why do I have to drain the gearbox oil?
because if you don't and remove the gearbox ,as you move it all the oil will run out of the end of the gearbox where you have removed the propshaft..If you are determined to remove the box,I did my box swap from inside the car after removing the covers,but still a pig,better than laying under the car.But for a clutch ,no contest leave it in ,and spin the engine.
Without any doubt if the clutch is being changed take out the engine as its much easier to remove than the gearbox. Minor boxes are notoriously fiddly to take out.
