Coolant question ...

Post by **bigginger** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 9:58 pm

Relfy wrote:You iron, Kate? What do you do that for then?

Mind you, I'm not exactly proud of my principle that once its been on for ten minutes the creases will fall out anyway......

What's not be proud of? It's the only way to go about it....

a

Post by **Relfy** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 10:14 pm

Oh good. Thanks for clearing that up, Colin.

No, not a student anymore les, i've been promoted, to waster. ;-)
But students dont have dirty fridges... there's never anything in them to make them dirty.....
(violins)

Post by **Pyoor_Kate** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 10:57 pm

You iron, Kate? What do you do that for then?

Well, since this occasion when I was at work and my ward sister made some comments about "not being able to find an iron", I, uh, 'decided' it might be a good idea to iron my uniforms, now at then at least.

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:56 am

Colin is there any disadvantage with using bottled water over tap water when mixed with antifreeze, or indeed the free distilled water as suggested by Les.

Post by **ColinP** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 9:06 pm

Kevin,

As far as the actual performance of water (with antifreeze and inhibitor), there's little difference (in my view - I've no data to verify this).

There is a slight benefit in using hard water - the scale helps to seal very small pin-holes (the Radweld works by hardening on exposure to air).

I'd honestly go for tap water in the radiator, save the melted condensate from the fride for the battery (or use purified/deionised). Bottled water is usually rather expensive tap water (or purified water).
The Mineral water is usually harder than the Thames Tap water......

Colin

Post by **Kevin** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:21 am

The Mineral water is usually harder than the Thames Tap water......

Thanks Colin, obviously better to use tap water then.
Just one other thought if rain water was available would there be any problems in using that ?

Post by **MikeNash** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 8:15 am

Regarding the use of neat antifreeze the specific heat of alcohol is a good deal lower than water so its ability to shift the heat to the radiator is a lot less - but as we're "over radiatored" you might be alright. But as a lad in the 60s at the Royal Aircraft Establishment (ah! those were the days!) I read a wartime test paper on getting the right ratio of water/antifreeze for Rolls-Royce Merlins and they came up with 60/40. This was based on having enough water to shift the heat (and also boil off as steam when things got bad -an extremely valuable attribute of water) and enough antifreeze to do the job. The antifreeze also lowers the viscosity of the mix which enables it to be pumped faster - all the better for cooling.
Re hard water - just use rain water out of the garden butt! If you're too young to garden then get some off a neighbour - gardeners are by nature safe and friendly. Mike N.

Post by **ColinP** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 2:34 pm

Mike,

thanks for that info. From looking at the anti-freeze I could tell is was more viscous than water, so that using 100% glycol didn't seem right.

I notice that the supply of Purified water in the pharmacies is less common - mind you our steam iron uses tap water (and occasionally spits our bits of lime scale ).
There's a big note in the manual - don't use purified water!

Colin