Morris Minor Owners Club

Had problem with voltage regulator. This was replaced and was running ok however the same symptoms have occurred on my way to the national. There's a loss of power and always at the same junction of the m11! once i have stopped for a while it runs fine again. This has happened twice this afternoon and i'm now back at home. I have replaced the condensor but now it turns over but won't start. (excuse grammar but using mobile!)

Louise, I've had problems with my Traveller and it turned out to be part of the wiring loom and the coil connectors.
Try giving the section in the vicinity of the dizzy and the coil a few "wobbles" while pressing the stater button, so you can see if there are any sparks at the connectors (which means something is "loose"). At it happened at the same motorway junction, was there a rubbish road surface along that stretch, that could have caused additional "bounce" and vibration?
George.

Thanks. I've given it a wobble but no change. The solonoid starter is one without a push button. The road surface is fine. I wonder if it's because something is heating up and failing? That's why i thought it could be the condensor.

Maybe the replacement condensor is NG?

what are the connections to the coil like are they tight , i would try putting the old condenser back on , is the coil hot , points good must be something silly louise good luck

Thanks, i'll put the old condensor back on. The coil did seem quite hot - i'll check connections again.

Changed the condensor but no change. Any other suggestions?

have you got another coil louise

are all leads , connections tight dizzy cap ok rotor arm good

dalebrignall wrote:have you got another coil louise

"But its never the coil "- to quote a very well known person. Louise, are the connectors on the coil of the Lucar push-fit or screw-down type.
If Lucar, then pull them off and push them back on a couple of times to "clean up" the mating surfaces. Do the same with the Dynamo connectors (if Lucar pushfit).
If I think of/remember anything else, I'll get back in touch.
I wish you all the best in getting Eric back on the road and to the National (I can't go as I'm having to do something else).
George.

If the coil is HOT - it may be the wrong type, and may have been pulling too much current, which in time will damage the points and possibly condenser. Probably won't show up on short runs - only on a long run. Have you determined if you have a spark at the plugs? Is there fuel at the carb? Maybe you have a short where you fitted the 'new' condenser -and that's why it won't start now. Check carefully - and yes refit the old condenser. A spare coil is a handy thing... as is a spare dizzy - both of course must be 'known good' ie they have been running on your engine. When you do get to the event Louise - buy one of each in the autojumble....and a spare fuel pump....

I tried a spare coil which has been in the garage a while and i can't remember how good it is but there was no change. Also changed the plug lead but still no go. The local motor factors have ordered a coil but it won't arrive until 11am tomorrow. Dale has lent me his spare electronic ignition - just got back from picking it up. Will try fitting it first thing. Meanwhile i have a 7ft long inflatable shark in the back of the traveller and my quorn samosa's have gone all sweaty !

Eat the samosas.... I roast my Quorn sausages on the firing shovel at the railway...always causes some amusement.. Gives them a nice smoky flavour...
As before - check for a spark! Is it a complete dizzy swap tomorrow?

Quick question. What order do the low tension wire, condensor, steel washer and plastic washer fit? Thanks!

Louise

From the Points base start point
Lower insulating plastic washer,step facing upwards ( think of it as a top hat ).
Points moving contact spring.
Condenser and coil wire tags.
Upper insulating plastic wire, facing downwards ( top hat upside down )
Metal retaining nut.
Bob

thanks Bob ! Got him started but running rough. On closer inspection the end of one of the ignition leads had come away from the metal end (if that makes sense) so was probably responsible for the bad running. Took him for a spin round the block and after a couple of misfires initially all now seems ok. So going to head for kelmarsh and see how it goes. Thanks for the help all

Louise
The " metal end " needs crimping to the lead a bit more positively.Either chat up the people from the local garage / Halfords or give it a squeeze with a mole wrench.Adjust the jaws first so that it does "just squeeze " and not flatten it.
Bob

Thanks bob. I changed the lead for a new one. Unfortunately only managed about 12 miles and problem is back. Perhaps it is the coil? Currently at services awaiting recovery.

We seem to be running out of things to change - when I used to run a Morris Ital Estate (daily car) it started giving me problems (in cutting out) when a few miles into a journey. This turned out to be a hair-line crack in the dizzy cap.
As the engine heated up, the crack must have been opening up and causing ignition problems - changed cap and all went well (for a few years).
Disconnect all the HT leads from the plugs and the coil, take the cap off the dizzy and have a good look around it - use a strong light inside the cap, to see if there are any cracks, or run a fingernail around the outside to see if there are any ridges.
Good luck, George.

It's never the coil Louise - you've already tried another one and it made no difference. Sounds like your complete Ignition system needs a good overhaul - many report great success with a complete NEW dizzy from Accuspark or Simonbbc....points or electronic whichever you wish. I suggest the 45D is a better bet than the 25D.