Eye bolt bushes

[tomlucke]

Hi
I'm replacing my eye bolt bushes but I'm struggling to get my suspension dismantled.
Specifically I can't undo the nut attaching the front arm to the back arm that is nearest the chassis leg.
It just spins round and I can't get to the nut on the other side as the torsion bar is still slotted into the back arm.
Can anyone help?
Thanks

Tom

[alexmcguffie]

Try a crowbar between the torsion bar and chassis leg to put some side load on the pin going through the eyebolt to stop it turning. If you're doing the bushes, I'd do the pin at the same time too. You might end up having to cut/grind the nut off meaning a new pin anyway.

[simmitc]

Usual advice of releasing fluid (eg Plus Gas) and leave it ti soak in. If you do use a grinder, be careful to not damage the suspension arm or the chassis leg.

[alexmcguffie]

I've recently found WD-40 Rust Release Penetrant Spray incredibly good, much better than standard WD-40.

If it comes to using force to remove the nut, try drilling 2 x 3(ish)mm holes into one of the flats on the nut and then splitting it with a chisel. It should turn off much easier then with less chance of collateral damage.

[bmcecosse]

I'm thinking it doesn't matter! Tap the rear arm back on the T bar splines till it clears the flange (helps if you first remove the rebound stop - and then release the T bar tension...) - then you will be able to twist/turn and pull out the eyebolt with front arm attached - and deal with the problem on the bench, where you will be able to grip the flange in a vice or similar.

[tomlucke]

I'm really struggling to get the rear suspension arm to budge along the T bar.
It seems to be completely stuck on the cup shaped spigot.
I've tried loads of plusgas and have let it seep in while I was away on holiday for a week but still no joy.
Keep wacking it with various mallets.
Any good tips on how to shift this?

Tom

[bmcecosse]

At worst - apply some heat. But first - hammer (not 'tap') it back and forwards till it comes loose. I assume you have released the compression in the T bar ?

[brixtonmorris]

I think the nut you are trying to undo is the outer eye bolt nut on the eye bolt pin. If you undo the tbar from the rear cross member and slide the small height adjuster arm forward along the rear of the tbar it will give some free movement. Also take out all of the associated washers around that area. You will also have to remove the front pressed steel front suspension arm, and allow it to hang down on the nut you cannot undo. So all is undone at the back and the front pressed steel arm is hanging of the nut you can not undo. Give the cast arm a nice firm wack on the flat where the large bolt goes through, and it should move back as bmc says. You should be able to see the colar that the tbar lines up with. If you undo the eye bolt socket big nut that goes through the chassis, the torsion bar will fall down with gravity and eye bolt pin will rotate as this is happening. You should be able to remove the tbar and then inspect the inner lock nut that is lose on the other end of the eye bolt pin. Your problem is the inner nut in the collar is not tight.

The king pin needs to be undone and the torsion released before you start this job.

[brixtonmorris]

I'm thinking it doesn't matter! Tap the rear arm back on the T bar splines till it clears the flange

bmc mentions it here, it dosent matter..... the torsion bar can be removed with the eye bolt still in the chassis, as long as the eye bolt socket is free to rotate and you have moved the cast iron arm back a little with a lump hammer kind of thing.

[tomlucke]

I managed to sort it out eventually.
Moving the rear suspension arm along the T bar really was a struggle and took a lot of hammering.
Now for the other side...

[katy]

cast iron arm

They're not cast iron, they're forged steel. If they were cast iron, they would break in that application

[brixtonmorris]

cast iron arm

They're not cast iron, they're forged steel. If they were cast iron, they would break in that application

Sure

Well spotted.