Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi there everyone, I've had a small leak of what I now know to be ep90 from the axle (originally thought it may have been the damper leaking, but I've replaced them with gasdampers now, while I replaced all the bushes and swapped to 7 leaf springs). It appears to be coming from somewhere around the passenger side spring attachment point.

My question is, as I need to do a 1h30 motorway blast tomorrow to move in to my university accommodation, do you guys think the axle will survive? The diff seems to be pretty hot after having driven it, is this normal?

Also, I noticed a sort of clicking coming from somewhere around the fuel tank after just driving, anyone know what this is?

Many thanks,
Tudge

It is not unknown for the axle/spring mount to tear away from the axle casing or corrosion to eat through the axle casing. The crud gets inside the axle bracket and eats away at the bracket and axle casing.
How bad is the leak and are the spring 'U' bolts tight even though you have had to undo them to replace the springs?
Did you notice any evidence of cracking or severe corrosion around the axle brackets when you replaced the springs
The axle will get warm with use but what is hot?
Have you checked the rear axle oil level and is it reasonably at the correct level?
If the clicking is heard when the car is stationary it could be the cooling of the exhaust or at a worst case scenario the axle casing is cracked and bending which is causing the axle shaft to bear hard on the diff carrier which would raise the temperature of the oil in the axle.
I would be very wary of using the car until you have checked it out and satisfied yourself that it is safe to use.
Better to be safe than sorry.
And best of luck at university

Thank you very much Phil! Everyone's always so helpful on here The U bolts are indeed tight, and I couldn't see any severe corrosion or any cracking when I had the axle disconnected. By hot, I mean you can hold your handnon it for maybe 5 seconds, then its too hot! I topped up the rear axle before my test drive today, I'll check the level again tomorrow morning to see how much I've lost.

The leak seems to be around 1 drip every 10 seconds when stationary, it drips off the bottom of the spring U bolts, which are coated!

I think it may be a new axle needed I'll start looking for a replacement casing in and around Bristol! If anyone has one please do let me know!

Cooling of the exhaust explains the clicking.

Many thanks

As Phil describes - it will have rotted through.... As long as you have topped up - and the two rear wheels are still dead upright - I think a reasonably careful drive to Uni won't do it any harm! You may be able to weld up the casing if it hasn't buckled - but sourcing another axle isn't too expensive -usually plenty floating about. I am surprised at the heat you report in the final drive casing - but I must admit I've never had reason to check the axle temperature after a run! I will do next time I use it for a decent run.....

Just to let you know, I arrived at uni with the car all fine, drove like a new car with the uprated suspension! Turn in much nicer, and corners ALOT flatter hehehe.

Well done - the Trav springs make a great difference. Have you also drained and filled the dampers with SAE 40 oil?

Glad you made it.
Now comes the hard part - university

BMC - no longer use the oil dampers, I've replaced them with gas spax ones... Although I had replaced the oil prior to fitting the gas dampers. Have to say the fas ones are much better, although a lot more expensive!

I'm doing automotive engineering at uni, so hopefully may be able to use their kit here, there's 4 engine dynos!! And a flow bench, rolling road, etc hehehe

Oh dear - I hate to think what the 'gas' dampers are connected to....... Nothing wrong with lever arm dampers, they are just folded up tubular dampers! With the advantage you can 'tune' them by changing the oil - or modifying the valves....

How did I know you'd slate gas dampers hehehe.... They're bolted to a cross member which is bolted through the boot floor, and welded at each end onto the chassis legs. Fronts are bolted onto the original damper mounting bolts.

Any problems I have in the future I'll let you know and you can say I told you so hehe

Those front dampers are a particularly nasty arrangement.... And the rear crossmember is well known to crack.. Keep an eye on it.....

Cheers, I'll keep checking it.