It is blown at 15.2 PSI (a bit over 1 bar). Dyno tuning gave flywheel HP at 63 at 6000 RPM. It will rev to 7000+ when pushed hard but not necessary due to the low down grunt the blower gives.
Bob
Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
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Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
Hi Guys
It is blown at 15.2 PSI (a bit over 1 bar). Dyno tuning gave flywheel HP at 63 at 6000 RPM. It will rev to 7000+ when pushed hard but not necessary due to the low down grunt the blower gives.
Bob
It is blown at 15.2 PSI (a bit over 1 bar). Dyno tuning gave flywheel HP at 63 at 6000 RPM. It will rev to 7000+ when pushed hard but not necessary due to the low down grunt the blower gives.
Bob
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IslipMinor
- Minor Legend
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Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
Bob,
Instant thought was 6 cylinder x-flow side valve???? What's all that about? Then thought slightly more logically and realised that the siamesed inlet ports go down (with the exhaust) to the supercharger intake. Doh!!
Looks very nice indeed - how does it drive?
Instant thought was 6 cylinder x-flow side valve???? What's all that about? Then thought slightly more logically and realised that the siamesed inlet ports go down (with the exhaust) to the supercharger intake. Doh!!
Looks very nice indeed - how does it drive?
Richard
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philthehill
- Minor Maniac
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Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
Richard
Don't know whether you have ever driven a side valve but performance wise it goes tremendously quick (for a side valve). I guess it would compare with a 63 HP OHV only with a heap more torque. Gear changes are very rare due to the tremendous torque the motor has. Can go up hills in top that a standard car would have to go down to 2nd gear. Overall a very good performer and very trackable under all conditions. Well worth my effort.
Bob
Don't know whether you have ever driven a side valve but performance wise it goes tremendously quick (for a side valve). I guess it would compare with a 63 HP OHV only with a heap more torque. Gear changes are very rare due to the tremendous torque the motor has. Can go up hills in top that a standard car would have to go down to 2nd gear. Overall a very good performer and very trackable under all conditions. Well worth my effort.
Bob
Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
Phil
You posted whilst I was writing. Thanks for the comment.
Bob
You posted whilst I was writing. Thanks for the comment.
Bob
Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
I just wondered -surely no need for fancy rods then since no high revs? But I can understand the head torque concern.
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IslipMinor
- Minor Legend
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Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
Bob,
No, the nearest I've got to it was my first car, a Morris 8 Series E - it had virtually the same 918 SV engine that was used in the first series of Minors.
Skimmed and cleaned up the head, fitted double valve springs, removed the air cleaner and fitted a 'straight through' silencer. Psychologically much faster, certainly much noisier and fun to drive!!
I was using the 5/16" BSF open-ended spanner only last weekend that I ground the sides away 50+ years ago, to adjust the tappets on the Series E (not for tappets though)!
How do the halfshafts put up with nearly 3 times the power, probably more than 3 times the torque? I seem to remember having to replace definitely 1 and I think 2.
No, the nearest I've got to it was my first car, a Morris 8 Series E - it had virtually the same 918 SV engine that was used in the first series of Minors.
Skimmed and cleaned up the head, fitted double valve springs, removed the air cleaner and fitted a 'straight through' silencer. Psychologically much faster, certainly much noisier and fun to drive!!
I was using the 5/16" BSF open-ended spanner only last weekend that I ground the sides away 50+ years ago, to adjust the tappets on the Series E (not for tappets though)!
How do the halfshafts put up with nearly 3 times the power, probably more than 3 times the torque? I seem to remember having to replace definitely 1 and I think 2.
Richard
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smithskids
- Minor Addict
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Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
The MM Minor half shafts are much beefier than the standard Morris Minor ones and over engineered compared to the long and skinny series E or Morris eight ones. I am running a slightly modified 1325cc MG engine with 38 mm rimflow inlets plus a janspeed exhaust and RC40 silencers in my pickup and havn't had any half shaft trouble yet. Cylinder head torque is as standard. 
Re: Head Stud Torque Check - Hot or Cold?
Hi Guys
As far as the standard rods were concerned I considered them to be unsuitable especially the 15 mm. dia. pin clamped to the rod and the diffuculty in fitting ARP 2000 bolts. No choice other than to have a set made with 17 mm. fully floating pins and 2000 bolts. The torque concern was not only with the head but all fastners. The pistons are 3 mm. O/S forged from 2618 T6 aluminium alloy. The all up weight of one of these pots with rings pin and circlips is 211 gms. as against 200 for standard. My car has a Minor 1000 rear axle with a 4.22 centre. It has been fitted with NOS EN 17 half shafts. I believe standard shafts are EN 8 with a UTS of 700 MPa compared to EN 17 with a UTS of 1130 MPa. Also has anti tramp bars fitted (thanks to Phil for guidance on that one) To keep the axle in one piece. I made a post titled 'Rear Axle & Bearing & Oil Seal Gap' on 24 Feb 2015 re the half shafts.
Richard My previous Morris was a 48 Series E with 2 mm. overbore, same porting and valve sizes, same cam, double springs, twin H1's from a Mk. 1 Sprite, full balance. I was concerned about the rods in this motor however I settled for using ARP 102-6002 rod bolts for a Nissan A14. These are 8.1 mm. dia and allowed the rods and caps to be reamed out for a decent fit. I had a lot of fun in this car and gave lots of surprises re its performance. However it was a 'Noddy Car' top heavy and easy to scrape the door handles with spirited cornering.
Bob
As far as the standard rods were concerned I considered them to be unsuitable especially the 15 mm. dia. pin clamped to the rod and the diffuculty in fitting ARP 2000 bolts. No choice other than to have a set made with 17 mm. fully floating pins and 2000 bolts. The torque concern was not only with the head but all fastners. The pistons are 3 mm. O/S forged from 2618 T6 aluminium alloy. The all up weight of one of these pots with rings pin and circlips is 211 gms. as against 200 for standard. My car has a Minor 1000 rear axle with a 4.22 centre. It has been fitted with NOS EN 17 half shafts. I believe standard shafts are EN 8 with a UTS of 700 MPa compared to EN 17 with a UTS of 1130 MPa. Also has anti tramp bars fitted (thanks to Phil for guidance on that one) To keep the axle in one piece. I made a post titled 'Rear Axle & Bearing & Oil Seal Gap' on 24 Feb 2015 re the half shafts.
Richard My previous Morris was a 48 Series E with 2 mm. overbore, same porting and valve sizes, same cam, double springs, twin H1's from a Mk. 1 Sprite, full balance. I was concerned about the rods in this motor however I settled for using ARP 102-6002 rod bolts for a Nissan A14. These are 8.1 mm. dia and allowed the rods and caps to be reamed out for a decent fit. I had a lot of fun in this car and gave lots of surprises re its performance. However it was a 'Noddy Car' top heavy and easy to scrape the door handles with spirited cornering.
Bob