Before I get stuck in... whats the best way to spread the torsion bar from the chassis to enable the retaining bolts to be removed?
Thanks
Master cylinder removal
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- Minor Legend
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Master cylinder removal
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Master cylinder removal
Personal experience from 2 months ago. Cut some decent wood (Spruce left over from building an aeroplane) into wedges with about a 30 degree slope, sand the faces smooth, add some oil and hammer them together with one flat face on the floor and one on the torsion bar. Can be chiseled out afterwards. Ideal tool is a tiny long-handled toffee hammer aka Pin-hammer. Mind the captive nuts. Might want 2 wedge sets for ease of access.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Master cylinder removal
Thats the sort of thing I was thinking of
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Master cylinder removal
One went in quite close to the front where the floor starts to go upwards and the rear one was just behind the bolts. Wedges were about 1 inch sq with about 4 inch length.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Master cylinder removal
Maybe because I'm a newbie but found an easy'peasey way...just a screw jack and a little webbing....
as you jack up the chassis rail,the torsion bar comes down...leaving both hands free to fiddle...
Simples?
John
as you jack up the chassis rail,the torsion bar comes down...leaving both hands free to fiddle...
Simples?
John
Last edited by Sleeper on Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Master cylinder removal
Or this
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Re: Master cylinder removal
I did this for the first time the other weekend, and then again a few days later when I decided to fit new copper washers to the banjo fitting- I'd recommend getting some first if replacing the master cylinder.
I hooked a pry bar over the torsion bar and with a bit of wood against the floor just levered the t-bar downwards. I had the car on axle stands, guess it may be easier than when vehicle weight is on the suspension.
Much simpler to do than many make out and certainly no need to reverse the bolts on reassembly. Hardest part was getting the master cylinder lined up with holes in chassis for reassembly.
I hooked a pry bar over the torsion bar and with a bit of wood against the floor just levered the t-bar downwards. I had the car on axle stands, guess it may be easier than when vehicle weight is on the suspension.
Much simpler to do than many make out and certainly no need to reverse the bolts on reassembly. Hardest part was getting the master cylinder lined up with holes in chassis for reassembly.
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Re: Master cylinder removal
All useful ideas!
I must admit I am considering getting a porta power with a spreader... but thats because I like toys!!!
I must admit I am considering getting a porta power with a spreader... but thats because I like toys!!!
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Re: Master cylinder removal
Millermans is the one I followed as I had seen it earlier when investigating (thanks M). Except that I used a short length of light gauge chain with a U-shackle and a short 45mm dia length of wood (curtain rod). Strong enough , and doesn't need to move down much.