Its copper faced gaskets Im using. Never ever put any other kind of sealant on a head gasket.philthehill wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 12:22 pm For the removal of baked on gasket goo use a flat ended scraper or make your own from a old file making sure that the file teeth are removed so as not to mark the head or block faces.
A spray with Loctite gasket remover also helps but is not always necessary.
The 'A' Series heads do warp and any warping found to be over 0.003" requires the head needs to be skimmed.
I agree - there is absolutely no need to use gasket goo on the 'A' Series head, block and gasket faces.
If you want to put anything on the head gasket then a thin smear of general purpose grease is most suitable.
Copper faced gaskets are best.
Engine Problems
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Engine Problems
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Engine Problems
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Engine Problems
Regarding the idle problem, check the carb dashpot level, I had a car that used to stall when returning to idle and topping up the dashpot with engine oil used to sort it every time.
Regards John
Regards John
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Engine Problems
StillGotMy1stCar wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 2:31 pm Regarding the idle problem, check the carb dashpot level, I had a car that used to stall when returning to idle and topping up the dashpot with engine oil used to sort it every time.
Regards John
Thats simple enough and worth a try.
- geoberni
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Re: Engine Problems
Probably just another foible of this flipping forum software.MacQuigley wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 12:52 pmNo X option for these 3 messages for some reason but ther eis for my subsequent posts. Must be a "glitch", probably operator error!
Edited to add:
And now I've lost the X Button from all my posts.... This is getting silly.
Last edited by geoberni on Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Basil the 1955 series II
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Re: Engine Problems
'there is absolutely no need to use gasket goo on the 'A' Series head, block and gasket faces.
If you want to put anything on the head gasket then a thin smear of general purpose grease is most suitable.
Copper faced gaskets are best'
Slightly tangential to this thread but does the decision to use a gasket or not have any measurable effect on the compression ratio? How were they set up when they left the factory? Just askin'.
If you want to put anything on the head gasket then a thin smear of general purpose grease is most suitable.
Copper faced gaskets are best'
Slightly tangential to this thread but does the decision to use a gasket or not have any measurable effect on the compression ratio? How were they set up when they left the factory? Just askin'.
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Re: Engine Problems
Only if the head and block contact surfaces were machined absolutely flat and lapped would you have any hope of head to block sealing if the head gasket was not used.
The original ex factory head gasket was a copper/asbestos gasket.
Before fitting the gasket was soaked in a bucket of water for an hour before fitting which helped in compressing the gasket.
The use of a copper faced head gasket or head gasket made from different materials has little effect on the compression ratio.
Older cars has a solid copper head gasket which could be annealed and re-used.
I have known for two head gaskets to be used (one on top of one another) to slightly lower the compression ratio but that is being desperate.
The original ex factory head gasket was a copper/asbestos gasket.
Before fitting the gasket was soaked in a bucket of water for an hour before fitting which helped in compressing the gasket.
The use of a copper faced head gasket or head gasket made from different materials has little effect on the compression ratio.
Older cars has a solid copper head gasket which could be annealed and re-used.
I have known for two head gaskets to be used (one on top of one another) to slightly lower the compression ratio but that is being desperate.
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Re: Engine Problems
Soaking in water, never heard of that before - I guess the process softens the fibres within the gasket assembly, makes sense.
Alan
Alan
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Re: Engine Problems
Just another thought regards your engine cutting out when it drops to idling...........if the carb adjustment and timing are correct, it may just be that it needs a bit of a service on the ignition side. If mine starts to cut out when I slow down and stop at a junction, for example, I find that cleaning and re-gapping the points and plugs always cures this.
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Re: Engine Problems
The only engine builder I've heard of who didn't use gaskets (sometimes) was Bugatti and some 1920's racers - never had one of them apart but I assume the parts were lapped with grinding paste for hours by some poor apprentice!
To put in a thinner head gasket would not raise the compression ratio by any useful amount - it's already as thin as it can be while still surviving the conditions it labours under. They did used to sell thicker solid copper gaskets for markets where the fuel was poor (in the days of petrol engined commercials), to lower the CR. They couldn't use thicker multi layer types because the softer layers would squeeze out if too thick.
I've heard of two gaskets being put in (sometimes on purpose!) but I wouldn't rate their chances of surviving for long.
To put in a thinner head gasket would not raise the compression ratio by any useful amount - it's already as thin as it can be while still surviving the conditions it labours under. They did used to sell thicker solid copper gaskets for markets where the fuel was poor (in the days of petrol engined commercials), to lower the CR. They couldn't use thicker multi layer types because the softer layers would squeeze out if too thick.
I've heard of two gaskets being put in (sometimes on purpose!) but I wouldn't rate their chances of surviving for long.
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Re: Engine Problems
So Ive been playing about with the carb this week and I have to say Ive gotten nowhere.
Tried adjusting the float and topping up the dashpot but that made no difference. I did get a serious fuel leak a couple of times from the fuel bowl, which sent me into a panic, don’t like fuel leaking over the top of a hot exhaust.
One thing I noticed was that when sitting on the drive if I dipped the clutch, the engine slowed and stalled. Not quite sure why that should be especially as it was in neutral.
Anyway Im out of time for the next few weeks. My Corvette is due back from the painters tomorrow and Ive still some serious work to do if I want to get to Biggar – missed every other show this year between the Morris being out and the Vette being away for painting so I want to get to Biggar.
I think when I have time in a few weeks, I’ll bring her back home, strip the carb, clean and service it and reset the timing, points etc. It cant do any harm and may just be the cause of the problem.
I like building cars. I hate diagnosing problems!
Tried adjusting the float and topping up the dashpot but that made no difference. I did get a serious fuel leak a couple of times from the fuel bowl, which sent me into a panic, don’t like fuel leaking over the top of a hot exhaust.
One thing I noticed was that when sitting on the drive if I dipped the clutch, the engine slowed and stalled. Not quite sure why that should be especially as it was in neutral.
Anyway Im out of time for the next few weeks. My Corvette is due back from the painters tomorrow and Ive still some serious work to do if I want to get to Biggar – missed every other show this year between the Morris being out and the Vette being away for painting so I want to get to Biggar.
I think when I have time in a few weeks, I’ll bring her back home, strip the carb, clean and service it and reset the timing, points etc. It cant do any harm and may just be the cause of the problem.
I like building cars. I hate diagnosing problems!
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Re: Engine Problems
If pressing the clutch is the cause of the stalling, (which you will usually be doing as you slow down to a halt) then there may be nothing wrong with the carb or ignition - it indicates that the carbon thrust bearing is near the end - a gearbox or engine out job, and might as well do the clutch, spigot bearing, crank seal and gearbox front seal while it's accessible.
I prefer the engine out - not so much grovelling underneath holding a heavy gearbox up, and you normally find other little things to fix while doing it.
The fuel running out means the float level is too high.
I prefer the engine out - not so much grovelling underneath holding a heavy gearbox up, and you normally find other little things to fix while doing it.
The fuel running out means the float level is too high.
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Re: Engine Problems
The correct engine idling speed is that when the clutch pedal is depressed the ignition light just start to flicker.
If the ignition warning light stays on continuously when the clutch is depressed the engine speed is too low.
If the ignition warning light stays off and does not flicker when the clutch is depressed the engine speed is too high.
There is no seal on the rear end of a Minor crankshaft. There is however a return scroll, a thrower ring and a catcher ring.
There is also no seal on the front of a Minor gearbox. There is again a return scroll to put any oil back into the gearbox.
There is a after market conversion kit available which has a revised front cover with neoprene lip seal.
Phil
If the ignition warning light stays on continuously when the clutch is depressed the engine speed is too low.
If the ignition warning light stays off and does not flicker when the clutch is depressed the engine speed is too high.
There is no seal on the rear end of a Minor crankshaft. There is however a return scroll, a thrower ring and a catcher ring.
There is also no seal on the front of a Minor gearbox. There is again a return scroll to put any oil back into the gearbox.
There is a after market conversion kit available which has a revised front cover with neoprene lip seal.
Phil
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Engine Problems
Maybe worn carb
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Engine Problems
Maybe worn carb