Hi all,
I hope you can help me with a brake problem.
When I restored my 56 series 2, I changed all the brake lines and cylinders but decided to use the original drums and pads which were good.
Over the last year or so I have struggled to get the brakes adjusted properly and decided to change the pads and the drums, believing that the original drums may be slightly out of round, due to inability to adjust properly.
The problem I’m having now is, on the front brakes, with the adjusters all the way off, the drum still catches one pad. I have centred the pads via the brake pedal.
If I adjust the brakes per the manual i.e. turn the adjusters until the drums lock and then turn 1 notch back, while the Wheel rotates, the brakes bind in one place and make an awful noise so the only choice is to back the adjuster way back and then the brakes don’t work very well.
Conversely, the rear brakes, even with the adjusters turned in all the way, I can still turn the wheel.
The pads are obviously aftermarket, could it be there’s a problem with them? They match the old ones perfectly.
I do believe I have the pads and adjusters installed correctly.
I would appreciate any guidance.
Thanks
Mark
Series 2 brakes
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philthehill
- Minor Maniac
- Posts: 10811
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- Location: Hampshire
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Re: Series 2 brakes
Please post a photo of the brakes on here to confirm that you have assembled the brakes correctly.
The pads as you call them are in fact brakes shoes and should be referred to as such. Pads are fitted to disc brakes assys.
How many miles have you done since the new brake shoes were fitted?
The brake shoes do need to bed (wearing off the high spots) in to obtain the best results. The more miles you do the better the brakes will become.
After market brake shoes and drums are not always as good as they could be.
The brake shoe should have a champher on the leading edge of the shoe so as to assist the application of the brakes and the bedding in of the shoe.
The shoes should not rub against the brake drum - so adjust the snail cam until the wheel spins free without brake shoe/drum contact.
I would initially ignore the one notch rule (especially with after market brake shoes) and adjust to suit. It will all come together in due course.
The pads as you call them are in fact brakes shoes and should be referred to as such. Pads are fitted to disc brakes assys.
How many miles have you done since the new brake shoes were fitted?
The brake shoes do need to bed (wearing off the high spots) in to obtain the best results. The more miles you do the better the brakes will become.
After market brake shoes and drums are not always as good as they could be.
The brake shoe should have a champher on the leading edge of the shoe so as to assist the application of the brakes and the bedding in of the shoe.
The shoes should not rub against the brake drum - so adjust the snail cam until the wheel spins free without brake shoe/drum contact.
I would initially ignore the one notch rule (especially with after market brake shoes) and adjust to suit. It will all come together in due course.