Front-left creak

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quee2646
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Front-left creak

Post by quee2646 »

Hi all,

I have discovered a creak going over bumps from the front-left: particularly when steering left; disappears when steering fully right. Having bounced it up and down, I think the creak is coming from the end of the tie rod, where it joins to the tie plate.

Is replacing the rubber bushes likely to be a first fix (they look old and cracked)? If so, should I use rubber or polyurethane? or both, as I've seen suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for the advice
BrianHawley
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by BrianHawley »

quee2646 wrote: Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:27 pm Hi all,

I have discovered a creak going over bumps from the front-left: particularly when steering left; disappears when steering fully right. Having bounced it up and down, I think the creak is coming from the end of the tie rod, where it joins to the tie plate.

Is replacing the rubber bushes likely to be a first fix (they look old and cracked)? If so, should I use rubber or polyurethane? or both, as I've seen suggested elsewhere?

Thanks for the advice
If they are old and cracked, you should replace them, regardless of creaks.

I would use poly.
Brian

Image "Jodie". '67 Traveller, 1275, discs, suspension mods etc.
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Monty-4
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by Monty-4 »

The advice I followed when doing this job was the 'both' - to have the a poly bush on the 'outside' and a rubber bush on the 'inside'. Firm braking without it being super tight. I've helped a friend fit double polys and we had to shave them down to fit.

Regarding the creak. Check the front damper mounting bolts are tight as they have a habit of working loose in my experience.
68' 4-door Saloon, another 'Monty'.
philthehill
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by philthehill »

As above - replace the bushes as a matter of course but you must check the condition of the eye bolt bushes.
The tie rod bushes do not normally creak but the eye bolt bushes/pin do.
Spray the tie rod bushes with some light oil and then bounce the car up and down - if the creak is gone replace the tie bar bushes.
Use a poly bush for the front and a rubber bush for the rear.
That gives you the best of both worlds - articulation and braking resistance.
If the creaking is still there after the oil is sprayed on the tie bar bushes and the car bounced the eye bolt bushes in all probability are the problem.
Replace them with poly bushes and smear with red or white grease on assy.
Again as above check the damper mounting bolts for tightness.

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Monty-4
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by Monty-4 »

Smart chap, the poster above. Now I think of it my front suspension creaked until I recently replaced the rubber eyebolt bushes on both sides with forum-approved JLH polys, the old ones had worn in 12 months (car is used daily).
68' 4-door Saloon, another 'Monty'.
les
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by les »

If it's the eye bolt bushes, check the eye bolt and pin for wear, if the pin is worn, replace, if the eye bolt has a groove in it, it can be turned through 180 degrees to prolong its life but only if the wear is minimal.

simmitc
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by simmitc »

Also cast an eye over the chassis leg. If a split is developing then that could creak. Rare, but not unknown, and if left the split develops into complete collapse.
quee2646
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by quee2646 »

Thanks, everyone. Put some oil around the tie-rod rubbers - seems to have stopped the creaking, though it was temperamental so time will tell.

To confirm: when replacing the bushes, should I put the polyurethane one furthest from the wheel, nearer the front of the car?

I presume it's a simple job to take off the tie-rod?

Thanks
philthehill
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by philthehill »

The poly bush should be fitted furthest from the wheel (in front of the tie bar bracket) and the rubber nearest (to the rear of the tie bar bracket).

The poly bush helps resit the braking forces acting on the front bush and the rubber bush helps with the articulation of the suspension.

To remove the tie bar - just remove the bolt in the 'U' bolt at the rear of the tie rod and pull the rod out of the 'U' bolt..

There is a split pin fitted to the front castellated nut but that can be replaced by a nylock nut if necessary. Use a round bar inserted into the rear hole of the tie bar to stop the bar rotating when the front nut is being undone.

Tighten the nut so the front round plate is up against the shoulder of the tie bar (located at the end of the thread). Then fit the tie bar into the 'U' bolt.

You may find that you have to pull the lower suspension thick/thin arms forward to align the 'U' bolt/tie bar holes...………….

quee2646
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Re: Front-left creak

Post by quee2646 »

Thanks for you response, Philthehill. I'll give it a go and let you all know if I need more help!
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