Clutch Pedal Sticking.

[culp]

Hello,

I'm having trouble with the clutch pedal sticking down, it tends to pop back up again within a few seconds, but it is getting more and more frequent. I had Florrie up on ramps and had a look and there's nothing obviously wrong.

[simmitc]

Check that the return spring is in place between the fork and the backplate. More likely is that the bush in the brake pedal has worn against the clutch pedal rod - look at a parts diagrem to understand how they fit together.
Lubricating the bushes might help, but best would be to fit new or re-con pedals/bushes as necessary. If you remove the master cylinder cover in the floor then you will be able to watch what happens as you press the pedal.

[culp]

Much obliged for the advice

[Tootall]

When you depress the clutch pedal, do you notice the brake pedal moving as well? They share a common shaft and when the bearings are shot, are likely to move together...

Sounds like that may be your culprit...

[philthehill]

Before you put it all back together add a grease nipple to the brake pedal pivot bush.

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[les]

Is that nipple accessed from under the peddle Phil? I've installed mine in a different position.

[philthehill]

Les
The grease nipple is positioned on the pedal shaft boss so access can be gained when the M/C cover is removed. A suitable hole can be made in the M/C cover aligned with the grease nipple so as to give un-interrupted access to the nipple.
The clutch shaft can also be part line bored from either end with part cross drillings corresponding with the bushes in the chassis leg. Grease nipples fitted at either end of the shaft will give total lubrication of the shaft, bushes and brake pedal.
Phil

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[les]

Thanks for the further info Phil.

[simmitc]

An alternative method is to drill along the clutch pedal shaft from end where the retaining nut goes and then across the shaft where the bushes go, intersecting with the first hole. A nipple on the end of the shaft allows greasing from under the wheel arch.

[philthehill]

Simmitc
Drilling right through the centre of the shaft from the outer end of the shaft and cross drilling at the bushes concerns me.
The shaft is only 5/8" in diameter and any size hole larger than 7/32" may weaken the shaft.
A 7/32" gallery is sufficient to get grease to the bearings.
That is why I stated the preference of drilling from either end and only part cross drilling at the intersection of the bushes so as to retain as much inherent strength in the shaft as possible.
My absolute preferred method would be to fit grease nipples to the chassis rails but that is not so easy as it may seem.
I found that the aftermarket replacement clutch pedal shaft assy was not made from the best of metal and could be described at best as bedstead iron with hard and soft spots in the shaft which resulted in a broken drill.
The shaft was mounted after centering, in a lathe three point steady and the tailstock chuck so the shaft was totally ridged. Using a drill mounted in the lathe chuck drilling the cross shaft should have been easy.
Phil

[simmitc]

Phil, I take your point about shaft strength and didn't go into full detail, just offering an overview of an alternative; but would drill only half way across the shaft. I haven't tried drilling newer shafts, the last one I did in a lathe about eighteen years ago. I first learned of this method from an Army workshop where it was a standard modification, and was on an ex-Army Traveller that I bought at auction. Also, it has to be done before the shaft is attached to the pedal!

[culp]

Thanks all for the advice very interesting. For the record the pedal shaft and clutch relay were both absolutely shot.

Unfortunately I also found that the chassis leg is significantly rusted and needs replacing, the cross member is coming up through the floor and the sills on one side have been horribly botched, so a sticking clutch pedal has turned out to be the least of my problems!