1966 Traveller

[LRV745]

Hello All,
Can anyone help me, I have a 1966 Traveller with a 1098cc engine of which when warm blows out 1.50 litres of water, and
there is a rumbling sound. When I bought the car it was not used for 5 years, the thermostat and housing was all full of solid
corrosion, of which I have renewed, also new water pump and radiator, but it still blows the water out after a 2 mile run.
I have had a water pressure test and that is o/k, there is no water on the dip stick, also no steam out the exhaust.
So what can it be.

[simmitc]

I've moved this from "Cars for sale" to "Mechanical" as I'm guessing that you aren't trying to sell at present?

Does the rumbling sound mechanical as in main bearings, or is it water boiling? If the stat was full of gunge then the other water channels are probably blocked. You need to thoroughly flush the whole cooling system until water comes out clear. Use a good quality flushing agent and reverse flush with a hose. Renew all hoses as they may have deteriorated.

Also check compression - if there are any cracks or the head gasket has blown then the cooling system will be pressurised.

Lastly, from where is the water being blown out?

[geoberni]

I'm with simmitc on this... where is it blowing out of?

As you've said there's no steam from the exhaust, I'm guessing you might be referring to it coming out of the radiator overflow pipe.
In which case, if this is after only 2 miles, it sounds to me like the whole water system is gunged up and it's boiling off because nothing is circulating.

You've gone to all the trouble of changing most of the water system, but no mention of actually trying to clean it out.

So follow the advice already given and give it a good clean.

[TDV102]

Hoses off, core plugs out and blast the block waterways out. I once blew out a coreplug due to blockages. Once I'd blasted out all the silt, rust and gubbins the block it ran cooler for years. The sudden eruption is likely somewhat of a steamhammer effect

[LRV745]

I've moved this from "Cars for sale" to "Mechanical" as I'm guessing that you aren't trying to sell at present?

Does the rumbling sound mechanical as in main bearings, or is it water boiling? If the stat was full of gunge then the other water channels are probably blocked. You need to thoroughly flush the whole cooling system until water comes out clear. Use a good quality flushing agent and reverse flush with a hose. Renew all hoses as they may have deteriorated.

Also check compression - if there are any cracks or the head gasket has blown then the cooling system will be pressurised.

Lastly, from where is the water being blown out?

There is good compression and it runs really well, I put the hose in where the heater control was and a load of milky water
came out at first, then it turned to clear water. I have renewed all the hoses and heater tap, When it boils up the water comes out the overflow pipe, Thanks for your advice.

[IslipMinor]

a load of milky water came out

Water + oil = milky emulsion.

I would remove the head, clean it out thoroughly and replace the head gasket, as it sound like there is a crossover between oil and water.

What is the oil pressure when cold and hot? Does the oil light come on when the engine is running - hot or cold?

[geoberni]

Yes, back in the late 80s I had a Datsun Bluebird that I had to change the head on because of milky water in the Rad.
Basically, the original heads had a fault where after a few years, the head became porous between the oil/water channels. The new head had different size waterways.
Oil pressure should always be far more than water pressure, so not unusual to only cross in 1 direction if it's only a small break in the head gasket. My Datsun would go a couple of hundred miles before the water got noticeably milky.

Sounds like you need to look at it PDQ before it gets any worse.

Must admit, I feel like you're not telling us the whole story here.
So at what point did you do this

I put the hose in where the heater control was and a load of milky water came out at first, then it turned to clear water.

Was that before or the same times as...

the thermostat and housing was all full of solid corrosion, of which I have renewed, also new water pump and radiator,

Or is a latter intervention?
It doesn't quite tie in with the description of

engine of which when warm blows out 1.50 litres of water

You've possibly got a water system blocked with hard gunk, and a leaking head gasket.

[simmitc]

Top up the rad. Start the car and run with the radiator cap removed. Let it get to normal temperature and look in the rad. Is water flowing freely and cleanly? Are there any bubbles showing?

[LRV745]

Yes, back in the late 80s I had a Datsun Bluebird that I had to change the head on because of milky water in the Rad.
Basically, the original heads had a fault where after a few years, the head became porous between the oil/water channels. The new head had different size waterways.
Oil pressure should always be far more than water pressure, so not unusual to only cross in 1 direction if it's only a small break in the head gasket. My Datsun would go a couple of hundred miles before the water got noticeably milky.

Sounds like you need to look at it PDQ before it gets any worse.

Must admit, I feel like you're not telling us the whole story here.
So at what point did you do this

I put the hose in where the heater control was and a load of milky water came out at first, then it turned to clear water.

Was that before or the same times as...

the thermostat and housing was all full of solid corrosion, of which I have renewed, also new water pump and radiator,

Or is a latter intervention?
It doesn't quite tie in with the description of

engine of which when warm blows out 1.50 litres of water

You've possibly got a water system blocked with hard gunk, and a leaking head gasket.

I am going to take it to the garage to sort out the problems. Thanks, anyway.

[geoberni]

OK, well please post your results on here when you get the car back, as a lot of people will be interested to know the outcome.

Nothing worse than a story with no ending ....

Some topics around here are like reading a book and as you get to the end, some blighter has ripped out the last 2 pages.....

[LRV745]

OK, well please post your results on here when you get the car back, as a lot of people will be interested to know the outcome.

Nothing worse than a story with no ending ....

Some topics around here are like reading a book and as you get to the end, some blighter has ripped out the last 2 pages.....

O/K Will Do.
And Thanks.

[LRV745]

OK, well please post your results on here when you get the car back, as a lot of people will be interested to know the outcome.

Nothing worse than a story with no ending ....

Some topics around here are like reading a book and as you get to the end, some blighter has ripped out the last 2 pages.....

O/K Will Do.
And Thanks.

[LRV745]

OK, well please post your results on here when you get the car back, as a lot of people will be interested to know the outcome.

Nothing worse than a story with no ending ....

Some topics around here are like reading a book and as you get to the end, some blighter has ripped out the last 2 pages.....

O/K Will Do.
And Thanks.

After removing the head, it was found to have a crack in it. So a new head should solve it. Thanks for all your advice.

[simmitc]

Make sure that the waterways in the block have been flushed through and are clear. The crack could have been caused by severe overheating followed by rapid cooling if cold water was poured in; so the root cuase of the problem may still exist.