Seeking advice.
My 1960,minor won't start. I pull the choke turn key then pull the starter pull switch. The engine turns over but won't start. I can hear a loud clicking noise from somewhere behind the starter pull could I have a starter solenoid problem ? I have charged the battery and still the same happens.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Georgie p
Car won't start.
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Re: Car won't start.
Welcome to the forum! I'm guessing a 1960 will have the earlier type solenoid, operated from a pull switch marked 'S' on the dash, as opposed the later 1962-on ignition switch-operated type.
You say it's turning over, which suggests the solenoid and starter are fine, so first thing to check for is a spark at the spark plugs - remove one and lay it on a bare earthed part of the engine, and get someone to crank it over while you look for a spark.
Assuming you have sparks, next thing to check is for fuel reaching the carb - does the bulkhead-mounted (electric) fuel pump tick every so often? If not, try giving it a deft clout with your hand or a suitable object, which usually kicks them into operation again. If that then gets it going, check the points in the fuel pump cap for pitting - they need replacing every so often, or better still, fit an electronic conversion kit from Burlen Fuel Systems, which makes them very reliable in my experience.
Also check the engine-to-body earth strap is in good condition - it's a common cause of non-starters.
If the car will start when using the starting handle, but not via the starter motor, then perhaps you have too much current drain going on, preventing the ignition coil from operating properly. You will need to use a multimeter to check the starter and ignition wiring for any bad earths, poor continuity, etc.
You say it's turning over, which suggests the solenoid and starter are fine, so first thing to check for is a spark at the spark plugs - remove one and lay it on a bare earthed part of the engine, and get someone to crank it over while you look for a spark.
Assuming you have sparks, next thing to check is for fuel reaching the carb - does the bulkhead-mounted (electric) fuel pump tick every so often? If not, try giving it a deft clout with your hand or a suitable object, which usually kicks them into operation again. If that then gets it going, check the points in the fuel pump cap for pitting - they need replacing every so often, or better still, fit an electronic conversion kit from Burlen Fuel Systems, which makes them very reliable in my experience.
Also check the engine-to-body earth strap is in good condition - it's a common cause of non-starters.
If the car will start when using the starting handle, but not via the starter motor, then perhaps you have too much current drain going on, preventing the ignition coil from operating properly. You will need to use a multimeter to check the starter and ignition wiring for any bad earths, poor continuity, etc.
Maurice, E. Kent
(1970 Traveller)
(1970 Traveller)
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Vincetti297
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- Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:28 pm
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Re: Car won't start.
Hi Mr Clipper,
Thanks for your thoughts and information. I will do some checking today hopefully and see were I get to.
Thanks a lot
Georgie p
Thanks for your thoughts and information. I will do some checking today hopefully and see were I get to.
Thanks a lot
Georgie p
Re: Car won't start.
Welcome. How long have you had the car - has it been starting OK until now? If it's suddenly not starting since the weather went cold, are you using the choke when starting? Has anything been done to the car since it last started OK?
From your description and the age of the car, you do not have a solenoid - a solenoid contains an electromagnet that uses a low current to pull two contacts together to switch a high or heavy current. What you do have is a manually operated starter switch. The good news is that if the engine is turning over, then whatever you have, it's working.
After checking for sparks at the plugs, if there aren't any, then it would be a good idea to check the spark from the coil. Do you have any spare HT leads and a multimeter? If not then we can still test, but it might be more fiddly...
Your distributor cap probably has the leads going into the side, and retained by screws. If the leads come out of the top then it's a later cap with push in wires - not a problem.
If you have a spare HT lead, then remove the fat lead from the centre of the coil and fit your spare lead, then put the other end close to, but not touching part of the engine.
No spare lead? Remove the centre lead from the distributor cap and wedge that close to part of the engine. If it is a side entry cap, then remove the cap and look inside. You should see 5 screws retaining the wires. When removing the screw for the centre lead, don't lose it!
In either case, the end of the wire should be close to the engine block but not touching it - you want to make a cap for a spark to jump. With the ignition on, turn the engine over and look for the sparks.
If you have sparks direct from the coil but not at the plugs then it probably needs a new rotor arm and/or distributor cap; or it might be condensation inside the cap - wiping it dry with tissue paper may improve things.
No spark from the coil? We need the multimeter to start checking the low tension side.
If sparks are OK, then we can look at fuel.
Try the above and report back. This is unlikely to be serious or expensive, just a process of elimination.
From your description and the age of the car, you do not have a solenoid - a solenoid contains an electromagnet that uses a low current to pull two contacts together to switch a high or heavy current. What you do have is a manually operated starter switch. The good news is that if the engine is turning over, then whatever you have, it's working.
After checking for sparks at the plugs, if there aren't any, then it would be a good idea to check the spark from the coil. Do you have any spare HT leads and a multimeter? If not then we can still test, but it might be more fiddly...
Your distributor cap probably has the leads going into the side, and retained by screws. If the leads come out of the top then it's a later cap with push in wires - not a problem.
If you have a spare HT lead, then remove the fat lead from the centre of the coil and fit your spare lead, then put the other end close to, but not touching part of the engine.
No spare lead? Remove the centre lead from the distributor cap and wedge that close to part of the engine. If it is a side entry cap, then remove the cap and look inside. You should see 5 screws retaining the wires. When removing the screw for the centre lead, don't lose it!
In either case, the end of the wire should be close to the engine block but not touching it - you want to make a cap for a spark to jump. With the ignition on, turn the engine over and look for the sparks.
If you have sparks direct from the coil but not at the plugs then it probably needs a new rotor arm and/or distributor cap; or it might be condensation inside the cap - wiping it dry with tissue paper may improve things.
No spark from the coil? We need the multimeter to start checking the low tension side.
If sparks are OK, then we can look at fuel.
Try the above and report back. This is unlikely to be serious or expensive, just a process of elimination.