Hi
My friends , Please let me know witch tool you use for remove valve spring for change valve seals (without remove engine heard may be. )
And i want to know what shocket (tool) size for tapped cover bolt and rocker shaft bolts ? Please
Regards
Sandun.
Help for remove valve
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Help for remove valve
A piece of rope.
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Help for remove valve
Sandun
Whilst you can remove the valve spring by using a piece of rope in the cylinder - if you have not done it before and do not have a suitable tool to compress the valve spring when using the rope process I would not attempt doing that way. You may well end bending a valve stem.
Much better to remove the head and use a suitable valve spring compressor.
If you are going to use the small 'O' ring seals I would not bother as they do not last 5 minutes.
Better to use the ESM small bore valve guides with locating groove and top hat seals.
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine ... l-p1209547
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine ... pe-p830169
The rocker cover spanner is 5/8" AF and the rocker pillar bolts are 1/2" AF. The head nuts are 9/16" AF.
Phil
Whilst you can remove the valve spring by using a piece of rope in the cylinder - if you have not done it before and do not have a suitable tool to compress the valve spring when using the rope process I would not attempt doing that way. You may well end bending a valve stem.
Much better to remove the head and use a suitable valve spring compressor.
If you are going to use the small 'O' ring seals I would not bother as they do not last 5 minutes.
Better to use the ESM small bore valve guides with locating groove and top hat seals.
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine ... l-p1209547
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine ... pe-p830169
The rocker cover spanner is 5/8" AF and the rocker pillar bolts are 1/2" AF. The head nuts are 9/16" AF.
Phil
Re: Help for remove valve
I agree entirely with Phil.
If you do want to proceed with the rope trick then the way I've seen it done is to get the cylinder coming up on the compression stroke so that the valves are closed, then feed some soft rope in through the spark plug hole so that it coils on top of the piston. Slowly bring the piston up so that the rope is pushing against the valves and keeping them closed. You've still got to compress the spring, and I do not like feeding anything into the cylinder - even though the rope is soft and any debris should be burnt and/or blown out, it's still something that's not meant to be there.
I have heard of people feeding string through the spring and round the valve stem and then pulling it tight to hold the valve in place, but have not seen it done.
With the head off, a proper valve spring compressor can be used and this is far safer. You can also inspect all aspects of the head, the bores, and the piston crowns; and replace guides and valves if required. Good luck with whichever way you decide to proceed.
If you do want to proceed with the rope trick then the way I've seen it done is to get the cylinder coming up on the compression stroke so that the valves are closed, then feed some soft rope in through the spark plug hole so that it coils on top of the piston. Slowly bring the piston up so that the rope is pushing against the valves and keeping them closed. You've still got to compress the spring, and I do not like feeding anything into the cylinder - even though the rope is soft and any debris should be burnt and/or blown out, it's still something that's not meant to be there.
I have heard of people feeding string through the spring and round the valve stem and then pulling it tight to hold the valve in place, but have not seen it done.
With the head off, a proper valve spring compressor can be used and this is far safer. You can also inspect all aspects of the head, the bores, and the piston crowns; and replace guides and valves if required. Good luck with whichever way you decide to proceed.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Help for remove valve
There are also some people who connect a compressor to the plug hole and use compressed air to hold the valves in position. I have never tried either method. I would whip the head off to be on the safe side. A head gasket will not break the bank which might not be the case in Sri Lanka.
Regards
Declan
Regards
Declan
Regards
Declan
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Help for remove valve
Oh...My God ... I change my mind now , ( After all My friends reply ) , now i think , do compression test , and remove head and look what happend .
Hope all of you help me - Please can you tell me when i test compression test , the ignition coil , and fuel pump , want to off ( power cut )
Sandun .
Hope all of you help me - Please can you tell me when i test compression test , the ignition coil , and fuel pump , want to off ( power cut )
Sandun .
Re: Help for remove valve
Sandun, do you have a problem with the engine?
As for the compression test, if you have the type of starter switch than can be pulled or pushed to turn the engine over, then you just have to leave the ignition off. If you have a solenoid operated by the key then I would disconnect the supply to the coil - not becuase the engine will start, just to avoid burning the coil if you leave the ignition on by mistake.
Process: Ensure car in neutral with handbrake on. Remove all spark plugs (which is why the engine won't start). Apply test gauge to each cylinder in turn, and on each cylinder, turn the engine over on the starter. It is normal to take a couple of turns or puffs to get the maximum reading. Note down each reading for comparison.
Perform the test with the engine cold and dry and then squirt a little bit of oil into each cylinder and repeat the test. The difference between dry and wet readings can aid diagnosis.
As for the compression test, if you have the type of starter switch than can be pulled or pushed to turn the engine over, then you just have to leave the ignition off. If you have a solenoid operated by the key then I would disconnect the supply to the coil - not becuase the engine will start, just to avoid burning the coil if you leave the ignition on by mistake.
Process: Ensure car in neutral with handbrake on. Remove all spark plugs (which is why the engine won't start). Apply test gauge to each cylinder in turn, and on each cylinder, turn the engine over on the starter. It is normal to take a couple of turns or puffs to get the maximum reading. Note down each reading for comparison.
Perform the test with the engine cold and dry and then squirt a little bit of oil into each cylinder and repeat the test. The difference between dry and wet readings can aid diagnosis.
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- Minor Addict
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Re: Help for remove valve
Thank you Soo much , Problem is oil on 2nd sparking plug , always i have to clean it , if not clean , it misfire or not start .
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Help for remove valve
Sandun
Whilst the base cause of the problem needs to sorted which is possibly due to worn valve seals or worn piston rings/bores I would try running hotter plugs i.e. N9Y which have their central electrode protruding well into the combustion chamber. With the hotter plugs the oil will be burnt off the electrodes.
See the link for further details:-
http://www.imps4ever.info/tech/engine/s ... plugs.html
Phil
Whilst the base cause of the problem needs to sorted which is possibly due to worn valve seals or worn piston rings/bores I would try running hotter plugs i.e. N9Y which have their central electrode protruding well into the combustion chamber. With the hotter plugs the oil will be burnt off the electrodes.
See the link for further details:-
http://www.imps4ever.info/tech/engine/s ... plugs.html
Phil