Brake lines-minimum bend radius?

[philthehill]

The brake pipe should go over the top of the clutch pedal shaft and between the clutch pedal/shaft and the chassis leg lip. It should be a tight fit into the angle. There should be some wrap over clips attached to the chassis rail to secure the pipe. If not fit some 'P' clips with rubber inserts at a suitable distance apart. The brake pipe should be wrapped in rubber pipe where it is secured by the original factory clips. Also wrap the brake pipe in rubber pipe where it goes across the top of the clutch pedal/shaft.

[ndevans]

Long time, little progress, but I am now at the point of tightening the brake line unions, refilling and bleeding.
How tight should the brake line union nuts be? I can't find any reference to this in any manual.

Cheers N

[philthehill]

I have not found a torque setting for the brake pipe nuts either.

The brake pipe unions should be nipped up tight. You should know when they are tight.

[ndevans]

Thanks. Judgement I guess! I know I have nipped them up too tight in the past, and had a leaking joint as a result.
Cheers, Neil

[ndevans]

Ok, bleeding the brakes now. I filled the reservoir last night and left it overnight. Sure enough, there were weeps from some of the unions. I nipped them up, tried again with a few pedal strokes, and most stopped, one or two required several goes though. They seem tight now, and I am starting bleeding. You start from the point furthest from the master cylinder and work forwards don't you? I have started with the rear n/s, then the rear o/s. No real pedal yet, but I haven't done the front yet (they are discs).

Cheers N

[philthehill]

It does help when bleeding the Minor brake system to have the rear of the car as high as you can get it before starting on the front.
I also find that it does help if the rear brake adjusters are fully wound round so you cannot rotate the drum. This makes sure that there is no movement of the wheel cylinders so keeping air trapped within them.
Good luck.
Phil

[ndevans]

Thanks Phil. Bit late to do anything about the brake adjusters now, the wheels are on. I could apply the handbrake, but I guess that will also move the cylinders in relation to the pistons? I have the car raised on blocks of wood (on its wheels) currently, just to make it easier to get under. I might be able to add another couple under the rear wheels.
Cheers N

[ndevans]

Steady progress. I bled all 4 wheels last night, virtually no pedal at the end, so I left a heavy weight (spare cylinder head) on the pedal overnight. Bled all 4 again this evening, and now have some pedal, though not really biting until a bit more than half way along its travel. I've left the pedal weighed down again tonight.
A coupe of very small weeps are still present on some of the unions, but I'm not sure whether it's fresh fluid or leftovers from yesterday. I'm not in a rush, I won't be using it until lockdown is over anyway, and if that isn't until after the MoT is due then I'll just SORN it until I can get it done.

Cheers N

[Trickydicky]

After replacing my M/C I also struggled to get a firm pedal, just getting fluid to the rear cylinders was a pain due to air. This method worked for me, you will need a patient helper.
Start bleeding at the front offside wheel then the front nearside, rear offside and then the rear nearside. With your helper in the car, get them to pump the brake pedal until you get the firmest pedal you can and then hold their foot on the pedal while you open the bleed screw, let the pedal sink to the floor and then close the bleed nipple. (Just ask them to say down when the pedal is at the floor) Do this at each wheel in the order above until you get clear fluid from each corner.
Finally start again at the furthest corner while following the same process with your helper and at the end you should (provided you have no leaks) have a firm pedal.