Static Timing

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grandpascot
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Static Timing

Post by grandpascot »

I just do not understand why I cannot get the rotor arm pointing at number one cylinder when number one is at TDC on compression. The rotor arm at TDC points between number three and four?

I am very much new at this and would appreciate some help.

Thanks Mike
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geoberni
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Re: Static Timing

Post by geoberni »

Well let's start off with all the background facts that got you in this position.
What have you been doing to the engine?
Have you simply removed the Distributor and now trying to refit it, have you rebuilt the engine, or something in between?
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liammonty
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Re: Static Timing

Post by liammonty »

As above, it would be good to know what you’ve changed (if anything) up to this point. Assuming everything is as it should be and you’re definitely in TDC on the compression stroke, it could be that the distributor drive gear has been fitted 180 degrees out.
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Re: Static Timing

Post by paul 300358 »

As above, why is it out?
You could rotate the distributer until the rotor arm points to a cap terminal then put number one lead onto that terminal.
Are you sure that number 1 is at TDC and not number 4?
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Re: Static Timing

Post by grandpascot »

I had electronic ignition which went faulty. I discovered a broken wire. I have the original Lucas 25D so decided to change the distributor by putting the old one on. I have not changed the engine switched bit or done anything other than try to swap distributors. Is it possible that a gear can skip a tooth I assume not. The last thing I want to have to do is rebuild the engine.
Mike
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Re: Static Timing

Post by pgp001 »

Are you sure you have got the drive dog fully engaged when you put the spare distributor in.

Phil
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Re: Static Timing

Post by kennatt »

If you are sure its one tdc (explain how you checked) simply turn the dizzy until the rotar points at a terminal and check that that lead goes to no 1,then the rest in turn 3 4 2.
grandpascot
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Re: Static Timing

Post by grandpascot »

Can I just check with you Kennatt your instructions.
Say the the roter points at number 3 on TDC i should make no 1 lead on Dizzy to no 3, no 2 lead on Dizzy to no 4 or have I got things completely wrong. Sorry but I need to get this right so I need it chapter and verse.
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Re: Static Timing

Post by kennatt »

as long as you know which cylinder is at top dead centre on compression stroke,then any terminal in the dizzy can be used as long as the lead from the TDC cylinder goes to the terminal that the rotor is pointing at and you can move the body of the dizzy to line up the rotor with that terminal. Then remembering the firing order 1 3 4 2 move the leads to suit that order. N01 is normally used because sometimes the rotation of the dizzy body is restricted by oil filters, pipes or the position and length of electrical leads. But explain how you set the engine at TDC on 1,its easy to get it wrong .It is better to fit the dizzy in the original position because then all the electrical connections line up and not cause straining of joints and wires But all you need to do take the leads off the dizzy then refit no1 to the terminal that the rotor points at,then clockwise no 3 lead to the next terminal 4 to the next 2 to the next.
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Re: Static Timing

Post by JOWETTJAVELIN »

That's it what kennatt says, get No. 1 cyl to TDC and then attach No. 1 lead to the point where the rotor arm is, then work your way around the rest of the firing order. Worked for me, as I found myself in a similar situation when swapping distributors but on a 6 cylinder Humber engine.
grandpascot
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Re: Static Timing

Post by grandpascot »

I am finding when I try and refit the distributer that it will only fit one way. Is this correct. It's a Lucas 25D. The shaft has a groove down one side which I assumed was for oiling but perhaps thats what is making it only fit one way?
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geoberni
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Re: Static Timing

Post by geoberni »

grandpascot wrote: Wed Jul 15, 2020 9:13 pm I had electronic ignition which went faulty. I discovered a broken wire. I have the original Lucas 25D so decided to change the distributor by putting the old one on.
Mike
Was the Electronics 'faulty', or did you just have a broken wire?
Could the wire not be fixed?
The electronic unit, e.g. Accuspark, will be quite a few degrees out on the timing compared to a Points setup, but not as far as you're saying....
Is there a difference in the set up of the 2 distributors?
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grandpascot
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Re: Static Timing

Post by grandpascot »

The wire was the thin black one and it broke at the black module. Not repairable..
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geoberni
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Re: Static Timing

Post by geoberni »

grandpascot wrote: Tue Jul 21, 2020 6:07 pm The wire was the thin black one and it broke at the black module. Not repairable..
Fair enough.
So how about a comparison of the Distributors? I'm having difficulty imaging how you've got this problem unless there's a difference in them somehow. :-?
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kennatt
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Re: Static Timing

Post by kennatt »

please explain how you have set the engine at TDC on compression stroke,I suspect you have set it on exhaust,if so its at TDC on no4,
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Re: Static Timing

Post by simmitc »

You can check the compression stroke by removing the rocker cover and checking which valves are closed. However, try something really simple and basic: Look at the dizzy. Is it sitting fully home, flush against the clamp? The shaft will engage with the drive only one way round, and unless it is properly engaged then the dizzy won't go right down. Remove all four plugs.

Turn the engine until the points are open at their widest. Check that the gap is 15 thousandths of an inch. Adjust if necessary.

Press your thumb firmly over the plug hole on number 1 (that's the one nearest the fan at the front of the engine). Now, using the starting handle, turn the engine until you feel pressure building under your thumb. Next, look under the front of the engine and continue turning the handle until the index mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the centre of the three timing marks - that's not perfect, but it's good enough for now.

Rotate the dizzy until (a) the rotor arm (which will not move) is pointing just anti-clockwise of the low tension terminal on the side of the dizzy and (b) the points are just starting to open. You need a multimeter or a test lamp (not a timing light) to check when the points open. clamp the dizzy in place. That's it. Replace the plugs and leads. job done.
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Re: Static Timing

Post by shoebone »

Just a reminder ... the dizzy runs anticlockwise ... but you all knew that already :D
kennatt
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Re: Static Timing

Post by kennatt »

shoebone wrote: Wed Jul 22, 2020 4:45 pm Just a reminder ... the dizzy runs anticlockwise ... but you all knew that already :D
:D yes was being distracted by two grand children on home tutoring arguing about which way water turned down the plug hole in Australia. Sick of having to re learn romeo and Juliet,division of fraction etc. glad its now holidays and no homework to assist with. :lol:
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