Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)

[blue_cortina]

Progress has stalled somewhat on this particular part of the project. Have manged to do the following:
Cleaned and painted both old brake pedal and new clutch pedal. Brake mast looks like a correct albeit a pattern part.
Have removed that offending captive nut and prepared ready for new one.
Removed existing brake master cylinder employing the torsion bar bend technique learnt from post by you guys

The I hit a problem. Dug out my old welder and tried a few welds on a test piece. oh dear not good. I've been stripping the welder down to try and rescue it. I even stripped down its selector switches. I'm knee deep in posts on a welding forum trying to work out what to try next. So the can of worms carry's on growing. But that's old cars for you!

[Chipper]

Is it a SIP welder? They were reknowned for being a bit pants, particularly in regard to the wire feed roller design.

I have what is probably the same or similar model (with the push-button selectors), rescued from having been dumped, but I've never managed to get it to work properly either!

[blue_cortina]

Is it a SIP welder? They were reknowned for being a bit pants, particularly in regard to the wire feed roller design.

I have what is probably the same or similar model (with the push-button selectors), rescued from having been dumped, but I've never managed to get it to work properly either!

You are spot on! Its a SIP Migmate. I've attached a generic photo of one from the web that looks like mine. Yes, wire feed issues are indeed a problem and it looks like it has caused many people to give up welding over the years because they think they are incapable when actually its a rubbish machine when stock! I've read pages and pages of forum posts about it now and am close to working out what its last chance modification is. I have a loan Clarke which seems better but desperately needs a new liner - that's the immediate plan!

[blue_cortina]

Well, the borrowed welder has a new torch liner and is running nice now so Have been able to weld in the nut cage which was the original problem I started this whole thread ! Have welded in a patch to fix the hole that had been vandalised into the bottom of the box section - so now its is closed to water coming in, and I am so much happier to see it like this. I have fitted new bushes to the brake pedal and it has a really good fit onto the new clutch pedal. I've managed to extract the bushes in the box sections using a 'tool' that I made up. The bushes in the box sections are quite warn and I've glad I'm replacing them as well.

[philthehill]

Well done.

[blue_cortina]

Well done.

Thank You!

And thanks to some decent weather I've made more progress. Reamed the box section bushes and done a dry fit of the pedals - very pleased

[blue_cortina]

Brake master put back in. Fitted new spring in correct place (who on earth designed that little teaser?). Applied liberal coating of antirust cavity treatment.

Incidentally at the start of the thread there was the mystery of the bracket hanging out the bottom of the car. I've also found what looks like two other brackets attached to the clutch pedal linkage and the accelerator - see attached photos. From comments on the accelerator bracket on facebook group it looks like this car may have been modified for hand controls ?

[philthehill]

Whilst you have the floor out I would recommend that the rubber relay shaft bush (the end located on the chassis rail) is replaced with a poly bush. The poly bush will last longer and give a better feel to the clutch.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... de-p829577

[blue_cortina]

Thanks for the advice - I'll try and add one to the order I placed earlier ! I'm trying to make sure all the linkage is good before the cover goes back on.

In terms of setting the right play on clutch pedal and brakes pedal am I right in thinking the transmission cover needs to be back on first ?

[philthehill]

The transmission cover does not have to go back on but it is best if you have a bar bolted (using two of the floor cover bolt captive nuts) across the chassis leg to stop the clutch coming up/back further than it should. Having just the bar allows you to see and adjust the clutch mechanism easily.
Once all adjusted and working well - remove the bar and fit the transmission cover.

[blue_cortina]

The transmission cover does not have to go back on but it is best if you have a bar bolted (using two of the floor cover bolt captive nuts) across the chassis leg to stop the clutch coming up/back further than it should. Having just the bar allows you to see and adjust the clutch mechanism easily.
Once all adjusted and working well - remove the bar and fit the transmission cover.

Great idea ! I'll certainly do that.

[blue_cortina]

Maybe a little wear....

[philthehill]

Good for another 100k

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

If I remember correctly the earlier cars had a grease nipple for the clutch and brake pedal pivot but this was deleted on the 1000. So a good idea to re-instate it.

[blue_cortina]

Well it been a long and frustrating day today. I've got all the new clutch linkage installed, even installed a new clutch lever gaiter as the old one was half missing.

I've tried to adjust the clutch and get that working and I can't get it right. I Fitted a bar to hold clutch pedal at the right height and then tried to adjust for 1.5" movement before engaging. It's hard to describe the problem but with a bar fitted across (to set the pedal starting place) if I try and adjust the rod to give clutch operation that allows gear change the rod jams against the underside of the clutch relay shaft (green circled bits). if I ignore the pedal starting place (remove my temporary bar) I think I can get it to work but the clutch pedal is way too high and towards the seat. Obviously that's not workable either.

I wondered if the two metal strips were the wrong length but they are the same as originals. I also wonder if the Clutch pedal (which I had to replace) had been made badly and lug at the bottom was in the wrong place. As far as I can tell its ok.

I'm really at a loss of what to do now

[philthehill]

See BMC wksp man illustration Fig. EE.3.
You will see that the rod between the relay shaft and the clutch release lever is fitted from the gearbox side of the relay shaft.
Fitted that way round it will all work without any fouling.
The clutch release lever moves in an arc so when pulled rearwards the rod is pulled towards being parallel with the gearbox.
That is why the nut fitted to the front end of the rod has a ball which fits into a concave seat in the release lever.
Reset the linkage with the bar holding the pedal in its correct neutral position.

[blue_cortina]

Thanks philthehill, Actually looking forward to trying that out tomorrow - sometimes you just can't see what you are doing wrong, every time you check something you check it the same way and make the same mistake.


Edit: Just been looking at old photos and the way I fitted it was the same as it was previously (I'm not saying that is right) - if you look at viewtopic.php?f=4&t=72662#p659037 second photo you can see what I mean. With the old set up it didn't foul like it does at the moment and it all "worked".

[philthehill]

Sometimes things work even when assembled incorrectly.
Sometimes things work even better when assembled incorrectly.
Sometimes things do not work when assembled incorrectly.

All that wear may have allowed the relay shaft to function in some sort of fashion without fouling the rod.

I would suggest that the relay shaft is assembled as per the workshop manual illustration as then you know it is assembled correctly with correct purpose.
Phil

[pgp001]

This Moss Parts diagram shows what Phil is talking about.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/clutch-sy ... 51-71.html

Oddly though this old post shows it the other way round in the AKD530 manual.
viewtopic.php?t=59006

Just looking at your photo's again, can you see if the two drop arms on the relay shaft are in line with each other.
The one connecting to the pedal looks to be further forward than the one with the clutch rod, if that is the case it would explain the lost motion you have in the linkage.

Phil P

[philthehill]

The illustration quoted in the view topic link above is for the linkage fitted to cars prior to car No: 198690. Cars post No: 198690 inclusive had a revised clutch operating rod which was increased in dia from 1/4" to 5/16" dia and the attachment to the relay shaft was reversed i.e. the rod was inserted from the gearbox side of the relay shaft. See fig. EE.3. The conversion required a revised relay shaft and modified pedal. All replacement pedals and relay shafts should be of the later type.
So long as the rod is fitted into the relay shaft arm from the gearbox side all will be well.