Oil pressure t piece

[MorrisJohn]

Afternoon chaps. I’ve just fitted a t piece to the engine block as part of installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge. The T piece came as part of a kit and is a nice snug fit.

It’s now in nice and tight at an angle I can get the other bits into it, without the dizzy obstructing. It’s now very difficult to turn needing quite an amount of strength, but I’m not 100% sure the last thread is 100% in the block.

Should it be okay like this, or is it likely to cause a minor oil leak?

[philthehill]

Most of the adapter 'T' pieces have a taper thread which screws into the block and when tight leaves some of the adapter 'T' piece thread exposed. So long as it is tight it should be ok.

Note the taper thread of the 'T' Piece below which screws into the block

Oil pressure 'T' piece.jpg (112.96 KiB) Viewed 1026 times

If not sure please post a photo of your installation on here.

[MorrisJohn]

Thanks Phil. I’m finding the original oil sensor is also tight after a few turns when it goes into the t piece.I guess tapering would explain it.

It’s hard to photograph but here’s where I’m at.

[philthehill]

Looks good to me.
Where is the oil feed pipe to the gauge attached to the 'T' piece?

[MorrisJohn]

Here is where I’m at. Might need to remove dizzy bracket to nip it up...had to slacken 3/4 turn to get the oil feed connection on.

If it all fits on situ and doesn’t leak I’ll leave it as is. Hope this nylon pipe is okay. Suppose it can always be upgraded later if need be.

[geoberni]

Should it be okay like this, or is it likely to cause a minor oil leak?

The man's a comedian....
When in doubt, start it up and see what happens. But that aside, I agree with Phil.

I'm confused by your photos though. I was expecting something more T Shaped


Edit: OK, I see from the latest photo there's another fitting that's screwed into the side of the adaptor... I've not seen a set up like that before.

[MorrisJohn]

Haha thanks.

It’s actually a kit for a mini. The same kit discussed in this thread, which I used as a guide: https://www.mmoc.org.uk/Messageboard/v ... p?t=14727

I’m going to stop now for today. Need to wait for the bulkhead grommet and pressure gauge arriving before I do anything else.

[philthehill]

If the distributer clamp bolt gets in the way turn the clamp through 180 degrees.
You can use either hole in the 'T' Piece for the switch or pipe.
If you see air bubbles in the plastic pipe do not be concerned - that is how it is and it does not effect the pressure reading.

[MorrisJohn]

Thanks Phil. It might actually make sense for me to switch their positions around to have the oil pipe further away from the engine block. If I do that I could stick on some ptfe tape at the same time.

If I read the other thread correctly I turn the engine over once it’s connected (but before connecting to instrument) with the coil disconnected in order to put oil through it...and then connect to the instrument. Am I reading that correctly?

[philthehill]

You will never get rid of the air whatever you do - the oil will drain back to the oil gallery/oil pump.
Personally I would not worry about any air in the system as the pressure will read the same whether it be oil or air pushing against the gauge.
To seal the connections I use Loctite loc and seal or similar. I never use PTFE tape.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-Thre ... %3A2334524

[MorrisJohn]

Thanks again Phil. You really are a fountain of Morris knowledge! Just to be completely clear you’re saying I don’t need to do that step with turning over the engine...I can simply connect the pipe to the gauge leaving all the air in it and it’ll do it’s thing just fine?

[philthehill]

Correct.

Phil

[geoberni]

Yes, it's not like bleeding air out of brakes, where the 'sponginess' of air in the pipes reduces the hydraulic pressure applied at the brake surface. Stamping on the brake pedal will generate many 100s, potentially over 1,000psi of pressure, so air getting compressed in the pipes is a significant issue.

Oil pressure on the other hand is only in low double digits (20 -60 psi range typically), so a bit of air getting squashed doesn't really matter.

[MorrisJohn]

Well. Now I have a bloody problem. I decided to switch the positions around for better placement and the bloody t piece has snapped...leaving part of it in the engine block.

<insert expletive here!>

So angry with myself...any tips on getting that thing out? Would something like this work? https://whiterosetools.com/products/bl ... gIb-_D_BwE

[geoberni]

No, I wouldn't use an impact device.
I'd go for a Screw Remover, something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-Broken-Sc ... SwQMlgbzAQ

Controlled torque rather than 'brute force' of an impact tool.

[MorrisJohn]

Thanks Berni. I’ll order that and give it a try.

[philthehill]

Bad luck.
Personally I would go for something like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYKES-PICKAV ... SwkT5gWJVQ

[MorrisJohn]

How do they work Phil? Do they screw in counter clockwise in the same way as the one Berni suggested? I can’t really tell from the photo and description.

[philthehill]

I believe that they do as you suggest in that they are lightly knocked into the broken part and then undone so unscrewing the broken stud.
My main concern would be the quality of the tools used. Sykes Pickavant is a well known and trusted company and I would trust their screw extractor in preference to any other make.
The other tool suggested could make metal segments which could drop down into the oil ways and cause damage.

Whilst I would suggest that the extractor in the link below is not cost effective it is the best you can buy.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYKES-PICKAV ... Sw~Q9gOkTn

There has been a couple of pre owned Sykes Pickavant screw extractor sets of the type in the link immediately above on 'e' bay recently and it may be worth keeping an eye open for a set.

Here is another type of extractor which appears to have good feed back. I cannot guarantee the quality of the tool though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12Pcs-Set-Da ... 1196.m2219

[MorrisJohn]

Thanks Phil. I’ve got a friend nearby who uses good tools on his cars, he’s experienced in vehicle (Morris Minor) restoration and repair. I’ll check and see if he’s got a suitable extractor before I buy anything.

I’m just pleased all is not lost. To say I’m annoyed with myself is an understatement.