Engine cut out in start stop traffic

[callevaerudite]

Hi All,
Yesterday on my drive back from collecting Sarah from her engine service after about 30 mins driving through stop start traffic (the centre of Newcastle is basically gridlock in rush hour) the engine cut out whilst still, would start again for roughly 30 seconds and then cut out. Thankfully I managed to get her started just enough to turn down a junction and park her up safely. I opened the bonnet and although the engine was not steaming she was very hot including the radiator. Left her on the side of the road for 30 mins with bonnet open and decided to see if she would start which she did. I managed to get her home (I was only 5 mins away when stopping!).
Was it something to do with the engine being serviced - the correct oil was used, air filter replaced and new spark plugs added, or simply Sarah doesn't like the stop start traffic? Or possibly something else?
Thanks a lot and sorry for my constant barrage of questions!

[simmitc]

Lots of possibilities, so a few questions:

Has this ever happened before the service?
What exactly was done in the service? You mention oil, air filter and spark plugs, but a full service needs more than that.

With the engine cold, and the car on level ground, check the oil level on the dipstick and the water level in the radiator, and then report back.

Are there any other symptoms - does the ignition light stay on or go out as normal? Check that the fan belt is in place and at the correct tension.

[callevaerudite]

Lots of possibilities, so a few questions:

Has this ever happened before the service?
What exactly was done in the service? You mention oil, air filter and spark plugs, but a full service needs more than that.

With the engine cold, and the car on level ground, check the oil level on the dipstick and the water level in the radiator, and then report back.

Are there any other symptoms - does the ignition light stay on or go out as normal? Check that the fan belt is in place and at the correct tension.

To answer, this hasn't happened before the service! I was told they changed the oil, air filter and spark plugs but am going to speak too the garage today.

I was meaning too do that so will check oil and radiator water level.

The ignition light does not stay on after starting up. Will check the fan belt position and tension

[jaekl]

Does the distributor rotor have the rivet?

[callevaerudite]

Just an update.
Checked oil and water levels - oil is good and water in radiator all good. Fan belt is all good also - This wasn't changed in the service.
Ignition light stayed on for a while when started up and idling and likely when testing her today (a quick loop round my block) so could be an issue with the battery or dynamo, though lights are working fine. The engine would cut out when driving when in gear - to note, when the clutch was down. It wouldn't when in neutral.
I'll have a look for a rivet on the distributor rotor? Would you point me in the right direction on where on the distributor rotor the rivet is?
Thanks all

[geoberni]

I'll have a look for a rivet on the distributor rotor? Would you point me in the right direction on where on the distributor rotor the rivet is?

Jaekl is referring to this:
viewtopic.php?t=54989#p516108

Also see this: http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html

[simmitc]

Just to clarify: Are you saying that it cuts out when idling and the clutch is pressed down, but otherwise is OK? If driving in, say 2nd and you press the clutch to change to 3rd, does it cut out then?

Originally I was wondering about heat affecting the condenser, or, as Berni is suggesting, the rotor arm. Both those components would typically be changed in a service, and new items tend to fail more than old ones. However, if they were not changed, and based on latest information, I'm wondering whether it's just a slow idle speed?

Is the place where you had the car serviced experienced with classic cars? It seems a coincidence that your problems started after a service

[callevaerudite]

Just to clarify: Are you saying that it cuts out when idling and the clutch is pressed down, but otherwise is OK? If driving in, say 2nd and you press the clutch to change to 3rd, does it cut out then?

Originally I was wondering about heat affecting the condenser, or, as Berni is suggesting, the rotor arm. Both those components would typically be changed in a service, and new items tend to fail more than old ones. However, if they were not changed, and based on latest information, I'm wondering whether it's just a slow idle speed?

Is the place where you had the car serviced experienced with classic cars? It seems a coincidence that your problems started after a service

Yes your correct it was when idling i.e in first in heavy traffic

The place that I went too told me they were experienced with classic cars. I agree that the problems about the coincidence of the issues started after the service.

[callevaerudite]

Forgot too add that those parts as far as I'm aware (from them not being charged on my parts list) they weren't changed!

[ManyMinors]

Replacing the rotor arm and condenser are not part of a routine service. I agree that either of these components are possible suspects in a car cutting out however

[callevaerudite]

I'll take some pictures of the condenser and rotor arm tomorrow... if I do it now with Storm Arwen... I may get blown away !
Haven't been able to get a hold of the garage because of the storm (located right next too the sea front) but will keep you posted!

[oliver90owner]

It would appear, from dissecting your posts, that this problem only occurs when a gear is selected and the cluth depressed. Is that correct?

If so, the engine is stalling due to drag from the clutch - possibly incorrectly adjusted.

[jagnut66]

Hi,
Reading through this I can understand the mention of clutch adjustment but see no mention that they did anything in this area when 'servicing' the car.
So, if it was okay before the garage touched it, my first thought would be that they may have 'adjusted' the idle on the carb to 'get it running better' in their eyes.......
It could be one of the other things mentioned by others above but, as it's simple to test, why not give screw number 2, in the diagram below, a quarter or half turn (clockwise), with the engine running so you can hear the idle increase slightly, then take it for a run and see if there's any improvement.
The diagram is for a HS4 but the linkages are essentially the same, just on the other side with a Moggies HS2, I'm sure you'll be able to relate them.
Let us know how you get on.
Best wishes,
Mike.

SU HS4 linkage diagram.gif (22.3 KiB) Viewed 1198 times

[myoldjalopy]

Alternately, take it back to the garage if the problem started right after they had 'serviced' it. A Minor in good fettle will have no problem with 'stop-start' motoring. A number of possible suggestions have been made by others and it would be worth getting a rotor arm and condensor from the Distributor Doctor, even if only for spares. His stuff is very good quality, which cannot be said about some of the stuff that is found on Ebay etc.

[callevaerudite]

Just an update.
Adjusted the throttle stop screw as reccomended by Mike. Took for her a quick spin and she seems to be fine with no issues whatsoever. I'll give her another drive next week but hopefully the issue is resolved.

[myoldjalopy]

Let us hope you have sorted it. But a good, longish run is needed to make sure the engine is not over-heating (in your first post you said she was "very hot including the radiator.") On the other hand, engines and rads do get hot - as long as it wasn't steaming or sizzling, it may have just been normally hot............

[simmitc]

Adjusted the throttle stop screw as reccomended by Mike

Which is what I previously hinted at when I wrote:

I'm wondering whether it's just a slow idle speed?

The main thing is, you've got it sorted

[callevaerudite]

Let us hope you have sorted it. But a good, longish run is needed to make sure the engine is not over-heating (in your first post you said she was "very hot including the radiator.") On the other hand, engines and rads do get hot - as long as it wasn't steaming or sizzling, it may have just been normally hot............

It certainly wasn't steaming or sizzling!

Adjusted the throttle stop screw as reccomended by Mike

Which is what I previously hinted at when I wrote:

I'm wondering whether it's just a slow idle speed?

The main thing is, you've got it sorted

I give you credit as well my mistake I was being lazy and didn't scroll all the way up A young person issue!